Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid. This is a chassis-only job with no HV exposure, but proper torque on the castle nut and post-repair alignment are critical for safe steering.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (left or right as applicable) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model X (2022+ refresh) outer tie rod end — confirm side
• Castle nut cotter pin × 1 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin for tie rod castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. On the touchscreen, enter Service Mode / Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
4. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (frunk-mounted, similar to Model S). Insulate the negative terminal.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift point and support on a jack stand. Remove the front wheel.
9. Turn the steering wheel to expose the tie rod end if needed (note: with 12V disconnected the wheel will be heavy — turn before disconnecting 12V if preferred).

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark the tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, use a paint marker to mark the threads of the inner tie rod where the lock nut currently sits, and mark the rotational position of the lock nut on the inner tie rod. Optionally measure and record the exposed thread length. This gives a baseline so toe is approximately correct before the alignment shop sees it.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod flats with a wrench and crack loose the lock nut where the outer tie rod threads into the inner. Do not fully remove it yet — back it off only enough to allow the outer tie rod to spin off later. Penetrating oil may be needed.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and pull the cotter pin from the outer tie rod ball stud at the steering knuckle. Discard it — never reuse a cotter pin. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on flush with the top of the stud to protect the threads and to catch the joint when it pops free.
   ⚠Discard the old cotter pin. A new one is mandatory on reassembly.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a proper tie rod end puller or ball joint separator on the knuckle to press the ball stud out of the tapered bore. A pickle fork will work but will destroy the boot — acceptable since the part is being replaced. Do NOT hammer the aluminum knuckle directly.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — avoid direct hammer strikes. Use a separator tool.
5. 5

   Remove the castle nut and lift the stud out
   Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and lift the ball stud out of the knuckle.
6. 6

   Count turns and remove the outer tie rod end
   Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod, counting the exact number of turns required for removal. Record this number — you will thread the new one on the same number of turns to preserve toe within alignment-rack tolerance.
7. 7

   Inspect related components
   With the tie rod end out of the way, inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears, the steering rack boot for damage, and the knuckle taper bore for galling or debris. Clean the taper bore with a wire brush. If the inner tie rod has play or the rack boot is damaged, address before reassembly.
8. 8

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod first (if it was removed), then thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns recorded during removal. Do not tighten the lock nut yet — final torque happens after alignment.
9. 9

   Seat the ball stud in the knuckle and install the castle nut
   Insert the ball stud into the knuckle taper. Install the new castle nut and torque to the manufacturer specification for the tie rod end castle nut. If the castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over to secure.
   ⚠️A loose or pinless tie rod castle nut can back off and cause complete loss of steering. New cotter pin is mandatory.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Snug (do not final-torque) the lock nut
    Snug the inner tie rod lock nut against the new outer tie rod end just enough to prevent rotation during the drive to the alignment shop. Final torque is applied AFTER toe is set on the alignment rack.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten lugs.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk (negative last). Close the frunk.
5. Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
6. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle running and verify no binding or unusual noise.
7. Drive directly and slowly to an alignment shop — do not perform extended driving with the lock nut un-torqued.
8. After alignment is set, torque the tie rod lock nut to specification.

Verification

• Confirm new cotter pin is installed through the castle nut and bent over — visually inspect.
• Confirm the tie rod boot is intact and seated, not pinched.
• After the alignment shop sets toe, verify the tie rod lock nut is torqued to the specified value (see Tie Rod Lock Nut spec — applied after alignment).
• Test drive: vehicle should track straight, steering wheel centered, no clunks over bumps, no vibration. The Model X's electric steering should feel uniform lock-to-lock.
• Check Tesla touchscreen for any newly-set steering or chassis alerts after the test drive.
• Recheck wheel lug torque at 50–100 miles after the repair.
• Note: while the wheel is off, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake pad thickness and rotor condition. Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — verify last service date if unknown.

More procedures for this vehicle