Replacement of both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model X Plaid. Front air suspension and aluminum subframe details require Tesla-specific handling, and a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model X front, left) × 1 — Tesla OEM Model X front outer tie rod — verify by VIN
• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model X front, right) × 1 — Tesla OEM Model X front outer tie rod — verify by VIN
• Cotter pins for tie rod castle nuts × 2 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin (new, do not reuse)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, located in the frunk under the forward access panel.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting the 12V, enter the touchscreen Service menu and place the vehicle in Jack Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen front lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the Tesla-designated front jacking points using approved pucks; support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Turn the steering wheel to expose each tie rod for access (turn left to expose the right tie rod, and vice versa).

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark and measure existing tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, mark the inner tie rod shaft and the lock nut with a paint pen. Measure and record the exposed thread length from the lock nut to the end of the inner tie rod, or count threads. This preserves a baseline toe setting so the vehicle is drivable to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut at the steering knuckle
   Straighten and pull the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused. Loosen and remove the castle nut.
3. 3

   Separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle
   Using a proper tie rod end puller, press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. Do not strike the knuckle with a hammer (aluminum) and avoid using a pickle fork unless the boot is being discarded — pickle forks tear boots and can mar the knuckle.
   ⚠Support the tie rod as it releases — sudden separation can damage the CV boot or ABS sensor wiring nearby.
4. 4

   Loosen the inner-to-outer lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench and break loose the lock nut where the outer tie rod threads onto the inner. Do NOT spin the inner tie rod itself — this can damage the inner ball joint or rack boot.
5. 5

   Unthread and remove the outer tie rod end
   Count the exact number of full turns required to remove the outer tie rod end. Record this number. This allows the new tie rod to be installed at the same depth to preserve toe.
6. 6

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod onto the inner shaft using the exact same number of turns recorded during removal. Verify against your paint mark / measured exposed thread length. Snug the lock nut by hand at this stage — final torque happens after alignment.
7. 7

   Reattach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install a new castle nut and torque it to specification. Install a new cotter pin; if the castle nut slots do not align with the stud hole, tighten further (never loosen) to align. Bend the cotter pin legs to retain.
   ⚠Always use a NEW cotter pin. Reusing a cotter pin is a critical safety failure point.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Perform Steps 1–7 on the other front tie rod, again recording thread count and using new hardware where specified.
9. 9

   Preliminary lock nut tightening
   With both new tie rod ends installed at their original thread depth, snug both lock nuts moderately so the vehicle can be driven safely to alignment. Do NOT torque to final spec yet — alignment will require adjustment.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk.
4. Close the frunk and re-enter the vehicle. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen Service menu and allow the air suspension to re-level.
5. Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment facility — toe is approximate at best after tie rod replacement.
6. After the four-wheel alignment is complete, have the technician torque both inner-to-outer Tie Rod Lock Nuts to final specification.

Verification

• Visually confirm both new cotter pins are installed and bent over on the castle nuts at the steering knuckles.
• Confirm the rack boots on both sides are intact, properly seated, and not twisted — a twisted boot indicates the inner tie rod was rotated during install.
• Test-drive at low speed: steering wheel should remain centered with no pull, and there should be no clunking over bumps.
• Confirm a four-wheel alignment was performed and printout shows toe within Tesla Model X specification.
• After alignment, confirm Tie Rod Lock Nut was torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).
• Recalibrate steering angle sensor if a fault is present after the job; on Model X this typically self-learns within a short drive but may require a Service-level reset if a SAS fault is stored.
• Note: While suspension is apart is a good time to inspect ball joints, sway bar end links, and the air suspension struts — Model X air struts share wear patterns with Model S and are a known service item.

More procedures for this vehicle