Plaid Tri Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
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drivetrain

Wheel Bearing Hub - Front

for 2024 Tesla Model X Plaid Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
11
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace a front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The hub is bolted to the front knuckle and carries the front halfshaft; replacement requires axle nut removal and proper torque on the hub bolts and axle nut.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch or cut any orange cable. The HV pack is floor-mounted on the Model X — orange HV runs are routed under the vehicle. Avoid placing jack stands on or near orange cabling or HV connectors.
Model X curb weight exceeds 5,400 lb. Use jack stands rated for the load and place them only at Tesla-approved lift points. Improper lifting can crush the rocker pinch welds and HV pack enclosure.
Falcon doors: keep them closed and the key fob away during the procedure. Inadvertent door operation while you're at the front wheel is unlikely but can shift vehicle weight if the suspension cycles.
Air suspension is standard. Before lifting, set the vehicle to Jack Mode in the touchscreen (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) to disable auto-leveling. Failure to do so can cause the vehicle to fight the jack.
Aluminum suspension and body components — do not strike directly with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift.
ℹ️The axle nut is a CRITICAL torque (250 Nm). Under-torque can allow the halfshaft to back out and destroy the new bearing within miles.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery in the frunk (similar location to Model S). Cover the negative terminal to prevent accidental contact.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Before disconnecting 12V: enable Jack Mode via the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling.
  7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts and the axle nut (staked/cotter type) while the wheel is still on the ground — both require very high breakaway torque.
  8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
  9. Remove the front wheel and set aside on its face to avoid scratching the finish.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake caliper and caliper bracket
    Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor, then remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle. Suspend the caliper with wire from the suspension — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Set the bracket aside.
    Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
  2. 2
    Remove brake rotor
    Remove any rotor retaining screw if present and pull the rotor off the hub face. If seized, apply penetrant to the hub center and tap evenly around the rotor hat with a dead-blow mallet. Inspect the rotor; replace if heat-checked or below minimum thickness.
  3. 3
    Disconnect ABS / wheel-speed sensor
    Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the knuckle and carefully withdraw the sensor. Unclip the sensor harness from any retainers along the strut and control arm. Inspect the sensor O-ring; replace if damaged. Set the sensor aside in a clean location — do not let it hang.
    ABS sensors are fragile. Do not pry against the sensor body — twist gently to free it from the bore.
    Torque spec
    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove the axle nut
    Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) or release the staked collar of the axle nut, then remove the nut completely. Discard the nut — axle nuts are single-use on this platform. The halfshaft splines should now be free at the hub.
    Do NOT reuse the axle nut. Improper clamp load on a reused nut is a known cause of premature bearing failure.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Free the halfshaft from the hub
    Push the outer CV stub axle inward through the hub splines. If seized, tap the end of the stub with a brass drift and dead-blow — do not strike the threads directly. Once free, support the halfshaft with a bungee or wire so it does not hang from the inner CV joint.
    Letting the halfshaft hang by the inner CV can damage the inner joint and boot.
  6. 6
    Remove the hub assembly
    From behind the knuckle, remove the four hub-to-knuckle bolts. Withdraw the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle. If corroded in place, use a hub puller or carefully tap from the rear with a brass drift. Avoid striking the knuckle directly — it is aluminum.
    Aluminum knuckle — do not pry against mating surfaces or strike with a steel hammer.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
    Wire-brush and clean the hub mating surface and bolt holes in the knuckle. Remove all corrosion and old threadlocker. Inspect the knuckle bore for cracks, scoring, or elongation — replace the knuckle if damaged. A light film of anti-seize on the pilot diameter (NOT on the bolt threads) helps future service.
  8. 8
    Install new hub assembly
    Position the new hub onto the knuckle, ensuring the ABS tone ring (integral to the hub) faces correctly and the bolt pattern aligns. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolt threads if specified by the manufacturer, then start all four bolts by hand before torquing. Torque the hub bolts evenly in a cross pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reinsert halfshaft and install new axle nut
    Slide the outer CV stub axle through the hub splines. Install the new axle nut hand-tight. Final torque must be applied with the wheel back on the ground (or with a helper applying the brake) — see reassembly. Do NOT spin the new bearing under load with the axle nut loose.
    Running the bearing without proper axle nut clamp load — even briefly — can damage the new bearing.
    Torque spec
    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reinstall ABS sensor
    Lubricate the sensor O-ring lightly with brake-clean-safe lubricant and seat the sensor fully into its bore. Install the retaining bolt and torque to spec. Re-clip the harness into all original retainers; chafing here is a common source of intermittent ABS faults on Model X.
    Torque spec
    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Reinstall rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper
    Install the rotor on the clean hub face. Install the caliper bracket and torque the bracket bolts with threadlocker as specified. Reinstall the caliper over the pads and torque the guide pin bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Verify the brake hose is not twisted.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  2. Lower the vehicle so the tire contacts the ground (loaded).
  3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
  4. Final-torque the new axle nut to 250 Nm with the vehicle loaded, then stake the collar or install a new cotter pin as required.
  5. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk and reinstall any covers.
  6. Sit in the driver's seat with the fob present, wake the vehicle, and exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
  7. Allow the air suspension to self-level fully before driving.

Verification

  • Check the touchscreen for any active alerts — particularly ABS, traction control, or wheel-speed sensor faults. The Model X will display these on the instrument cluster area of the main display.
  • With the vehicle off the ground, slowly rotate the hub by hand and listen/feel for roughness. A new bearing should spin smoothly with no detectable play when rocked at 12/6 and 9/3.
  • Test drive at low speed first — verify ABS self-test completes (typically by ~5 mph the cluster clears any temporary ABS message). Listen for bearing growl at 25–45 mph; new bearings should be silent.
  • Perform a moderate braking stop on a clean, dry road to confirm no pull and that the ABS module sees both front wheel speeds correctly.
  • Re-check the axle nut staking/cotter pin after the test drive.
  • While the wheel is off, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake pad thickness and rotor condition. Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — note when it is next due.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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More procedures for this vehicle

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