Front press-in wheel bearing replacement on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The front hub assembly uses a press-fit bearing that requires a hydraulic press or on-vehicle bearing puller; the hub knuckle should be removed for proper bearing service.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing (press-in, manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model X Plaid) × 1 — OEM Tesla front wheel bearing — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) or new cotter pin if staked-nut style × 1 — OEM single-use axle retention hardware
• Hub bolts (if reuse not permitted by service manual) × 4 — OEM hub mounting bolts
• ABS sensor (replace if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM front ABS/wheel speed sensor

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery negative terminal (frunk location, similar to Model S). Insulate the terminal to prevent accidental contact.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enter the touchscreen Service menu and enable Jack Mode (disables air suspension self-leveling). With 12V disconnected this is moot — perform Jack Mode BEFORE disconnecting 12V, then disconnect.
7. Loosen (do not remove) the wheel lug nuts and the axle nut while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved puck adapters and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under air-suspension support alone.
9. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the brake caliper bracket from the knuckle. Support the caliper with a hanger — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip/screw if present and slide the rotor off. Inspect the rotor for the wheel speed reluctor ring if integrated.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the knuckle and carefully extract the sensor. If seized, work it free with gentle prying — a damaged sensor must be replaced, not forced back in. Unclip the sensor harness from the knuckle/strut routing clips so it can hang free.
   ⚠ABS sensors are easily destroyed by twisting force. If stuck, apply penetrant and rotate gently before pulling.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the axle nut
   Remove the cotter pin (if present) and back off the axle nut. This nut was loosened on the ground; it should now spin off by hand or with light effort. Discard the nut and cotter pin — these are single-use.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate outer tie rod and upper control arm (or as required to free knuckle)
   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a proper separator tool. Then separate the upper control arm ball joint from the knuckle. Note the orientation of any shims/washers. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the CV axle or brake hose.
   ⚠Do not use a pickle fork on Tesla aluminum suspension — it tears boots and gouges the knuckle. Use a press-style separator.
5. 5

   Push CV axle out of hub
   Push the outer CV stub axle inward through the hub splines. Use a soft-faced punch or a dedicated axle pusher; if seized, apply penetrant and tap lightly. Once free, swing the axle aside and support it — do not let it hang by the inner tripod joint, as this can damage the inner CV.
6. 6

   Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle
   Disconnect the lower control arm or strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt as required by the manufacturer-specified procedure to free the knuckle. Lift the knuckle assembly off the vehicle and move it to a clean workbench. Working off-vehicle protects the aluminum bore and gives proper press alignment.
7. 7

   Remove hub from knuckle
   On the bench, remove the hub bolts securing the hub flange to the back of the knuckle (if hub is bolt-retained), then press the hub out of the bearing. The inner bearing race typically remains on the hub and must be removed with a bearing splitter and press, or pulled with a slide hammer/puller.
   ⚠Inspect the hub flange for cracks, scoring on the bearing seat, and runout. A damaged hub will destroy a new bearing within a few thousand miles.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Press out the old bearing
   Remove the bearing retaining snap ring(s) from the knuckle bore if equipped. Using a hydraulic press and properly sized bearing drivers, press the old bearing out of the knuckle. Support the knuckle on the press bed so the bore is unobstructed and force is applied only to the bearing outer race.
   ⚠Pressing on the wrong race or misaligned tooling will crack the aluminum knuckle. Verify driver size before applying force.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Clean the bore thoroughly with brake cleaner and a non-abrasive pad. Inspect for scoring, ovality, or hairline cracks. A bore that no longer holds the bearing with proper interference fit must be replaced — do not use sleeves or retaining compound as a substitute on a structural suspension component.
10. 10

    Press in the new bearing
    Lubricate the bore lightly per the bearing manufacturer's instructions (some specify dry installation). Press the new bearing into the knuckle squarely, applying force only to the OUTER race during installation into the knuckle. Seat the bearing fully against its shoulder. Install retaining snap ring if equipped, ensuring it is fully seated in its groove.
    ⚠️Never press on the inner race when seating the bearing into the knuckle — this destroys the new bearing immediately and the failure may not show up until road testing.
11. 11

    Press hub into new bearing
    Reverse the support: now support the bearing's INNER race on the press, and press the hub through the inner race. Pressing on the outer race during hub installation will collapse the bearing.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the steering knuckle to the vehicle, reconnecting the lower control arm/strut, upper ball joint, and outer tie rod. Torque each fastener to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
2. Slide the CV axle stub through the hub splines. Apply a light film of clean grease to the splines if specified.
3. Install a NEW axle nut. Torque to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as applicable. [Axle Nut — CRITICAL]
4. Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper bracket. Torque caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and torque the retaining bolt to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). [ABS Sensor Bolt]
6. Reroute and reclip the ABS harness exactly as original — chafing here is a common source of intermittent ABS faults.
7. Reinstall the wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts, then snug in a star pattern.
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground and final-torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern. [Wheel Lug Nuts — CRITICAL]
9. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal in the frunk.
10. Close the frunk. Sit in the vehicle with the key fob — the air suspension will re-initialize. Allow it to complete its self-level cycle before moving the vehicle.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, check the touchscreen for any active alerts — particularly ABS, traction control, or wheel speed sensor faults. Clear any stored faults via the Service menu if needed.
• Spin test (before road test): with the wheel reinstalled and vehicle still safely supported, rotate the wheel by hand. It should spin smoothly with no grinding, roughness, or play. Rock the wheel at 12/6 and 9/3 — there should be zero detectable play.
• Low-speed road test in a safe area: listen for any humming or growling that changes with steering input (load shift onto/off the bearing). A correctly installed bearing is silent.
• Verify Autopilot/ABS/traction features are functional — wheel speed sensor errors after this job almost always trace back to a damaged sensor or harness misrouting.
• Re-torque the lug nuts after 50–100 miles of driving (Tesla recommends this after any wheel removal). [Wheel Lug Nuts]
• Note: while the wheel is off, this is a good opportunity to confirm tire rotation interval — Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi on Model X due to the heavy curb weight and instant torque wear pattern.

More procedures for this vehicle