Replacement of a press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2024 Model X Plaid. The bearing is pressed into the rear knuckle/upright; the half-shaft passes through it and is retained by the axle nut. This is a non-HV job but proximity to the floor-mounted HV pack and rear drive unit demands extra care.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing assembly (press-in type, OEM-spec for Model X Plaid) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear wheel bearing for 2024 Model X Plaid
• Axle nut (single-use) and new cotter pin or stake-style retainer × 1 — OEM single-use axle retention hardware
• Internal snap/retaining ring (if equipped on the knuckle bore) × 1 — OEM-spec retaining ring
• Hub bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 4 — OEM-spec hub bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake (electronic parking brake will set automatically when exiting).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (frunk-mounted, similar location to Model S). Isolate the negative terminal so it cannot spring back.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting 12V: enter Service Mode and activate Jack Mode / Transport Mode to disable air suspension self-leveling. Confirm suspension does not attempt to adjust.
7. Chock the front wheels. Loosen the rear axle nut and the rear wheel lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground (axle nut requires very high breakaway torque).
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at OEM-specified lift points only — never on the HV battery pack edges. Support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the rear brake caliper and bracket from the knuckle. Support the caliper with a hanger — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip (if present) and pull the rotor off. If the parking brake shoes drag, back off the EPB via Service Mode 'Brake Service Mode' before removal.
   ⚠Do not pry against the EPB actuator or its wiring. The rear caliper integrates the electronic parking brake motor.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS/wheel speed sensor
   Locate the wheel speed sensor on the knuckle. Remove its retaining bolt and gently pull the sensor straight out of its bore. Unclip the harness from the knuckle and suspension routing so it is fully clear of the work area. Inspect the sensor tip for damage and corrosion.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the axle nut
   Remove the cotter pin / staking from the axle nut (if not already done during pre-loosening). Fully unthread and discard the axle nut — it is single-use. Do not reuse the cotter pin.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate suspension links as required to free the knuckle
   Loosen and detach the suspension/toe links from the knuckle as required to allow the knuckle to swing outward and the half-shaft to be withdrawn from the hub splines. Mark the toe-link cam-bolt position before removal so alignment can be approximated on reassembly. Support the knuckle — do not let it hang on the air suspension components.
   ⚠An alignment will be required after this job. Mark every cam/eccentric position before disturbing it.
5. 5

   Push the half-shaft out of the hub
   Using a soft-faced mallet or a thread-protected pusher, drive the splined end of the rear half-shaft inward, out of the hub. If seized, use a hub puller — never strike the half-shaft threads directly. Once free, support the half-shaft so it does not hang from the inner CV joint.
   ⚠Do not over-extend the inner CV joint of the half-shaft. Excessive plunge can damage the tripod and contaminate the joint.
6. 6

   Remove the knuckle from the vehicle (recommended for press-in bearings)
   For a press-in bearing, the cleanest procedure is to remove the knuckle from the vehicle and press the bearing on a bench press. Disconnect any remaining links/bolts holding the knuckle (upper control arm pinch bolt or ball joint, lower arm, etc.) per the manufacturer-specified disassembly order. Carefully lower the knuckle out and move it to a clean workbench.
7. 7

   Press out the old hub flange and bearing
   Clamp the knuckle in a press fixture. Press the hub flange out of the bearing inner race first (the inner race typically stays on the hub flange and must be removed with a bearing splitter/puller). Remove any internal retaining ring(s) from the knuckle bore using snap-ring pliers. Then press the bearing outer races out of the knuckle bore in the manufacturer-specified direction.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle: support it evenly in the press. Off-center loading can crack the casting. Use proper bearing drivers sized to the bearing's outer race only.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Clean the bore thoroughly with a non-residue solvent. Inspect for scoring, ovality, or cracks. Light burrs may be polished with fine emery; heavy damage requires knuckle replacement. Lightly oil the bore prior to installation.
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing
   Orient the new bearing per the manufacturer's marking (sensor-magnet side toward the ABS sensor on applications where it applies). Press squarely into the knuckle bore using a driver that contacts ONLY the bearing's outer race until it is fully seated against the shoulder. Install a new internal retaining ring if equipped, ensuring it is fully seated in its groove.
   ⚠️Never press on the inner race during installation into the knuckle, and never press on the outer race when installing the hub flange. Doing so destroys the new bearing.
10. 10

    Press the hub flange into the new bearing
    Support the bearing's INNER race with a tubular support, then press the hub flange through the bearing until fully seated. Confirm the hub spins smoothly with no roughness or binding.
11. 11

    Reinstall the knuckle and reassemble suspension
    Reinstall the knuckle to the suspension links in the reverse order of removal. Return all cam/eccentric bolts to their marked positions. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    ℹ️Do not final-torque suspension bushings until the vehicle is at ride height — bushings preloaded at full droop will tear prematurely.
12. 12

    Reinstall the half-shaft and torque the axle nut
    Slide the half-shaft splines into the hub. Install the NEW axle nut. Lower the vehicle so the wheel is loaded (or lock hub rotation safely) and torque the axle nut to spec, then install the new cotter pin or stake the nut as designed. Never advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole; back off and re-torque only if the procedure allows — otherwise replace.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall hub-mounted components (if hub bolts were disturbed)
    If any hub-mounting bolts were removed during this procedure (e.g., on bearing designs that bolt the hub assembly to the knuckle from behind), torque them to specification.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reinstall brake rotor, caliper, and ABS sensor
    Install the rotor (and clip if used). Reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper, torquing to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reinstall the ABS sensor with a clean bore and torque its retaining bolt. Reroute and reclip the harness exactly as it was.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the wheel and snug the lugs. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lugs in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery in the frunk; close and latch the frunk.
2. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode so the air suspension re-enables normal leveling.
3. Allow the vehicle to self-level on air suspension; verify no fault messages on the touchscreen.
4. Pump the brake pedal until firm before driving — the EPB and hydraulic caliper pistons may need to take up clearance.
5. Drive at low speed in a safe area to verify ABS, traction control, and stability control re-initialize without warnings.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction control, stability control, or EPB warnings on the touchscreen after a short drive cycle.
• Road test: listen for bearing growl that changes with vehicle load/cornering — should be silent. Tesla cabins are very quiet, making bearing noise easy to detect.
• Re-check axle nut staking/cotter pin after the road test — verify the retention is intact and the nut has not loosened.
• Verify the air suspension lifts and lowers correctly through all height settings and that ride height is even side-to-side at the rear.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment — any disturbance of rear suspension links on a Model X requires alignment to preserve tire life (Model X eats tires quickly with ~6,250 mi rotation intervals already recommended).
• While the vehicle is in the air, this is a logical time to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and cabin air filter age (every 2 years, or 3 years if HEPA/Bioweapon Defense equipped).

More procedures for this vehicle