Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

Rebuild the rear brake calipers on a 2024 Model Y Performance by removing the calipers, replacing seals/pistons/boots with a rebuild kit, and reinstalling with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Note that the Performance trim uses larger rear calipers than standard Model Y — verify rebuild kit compatibility before starting.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) — Model Y Performance specific × 2 — Manufacturer-specified rear caliper rebuild kit for 2024 Model Y Performance
• Caliper pistons (if scored or corroded) × 2 — OEM-spec rear caliper piston
• Caliper slide pin boots (if torn) × 2 — OEM-spec slide pin boot kit
• Brake pad anti-rattle clips/hardware × 1 — OEM-spec hardware kit
• Copper crush washers for brake hose banjo (if applicable) × 4 — OEM-spec crush washer

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake (you will release it via service mode in a moment).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Before disconnecting 12V power: enter the touchscreen Service Mode and place the rear electric parking brake into Brake Service / Maintenance Mode so the EPB calipers retract and remain unpowered.
4. Disconnect the low-voltage battery (12V, located under the rear seat or in the front trunk area depending on build — see architecture notes). Wait 2 minutes after disconnect.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking pads (puck adapters required to avoid crushing the rocker pinch weld). Support on jack stands.
9. Remove rear wheels and set aside on the rotor face (not on the lug studs).
10. Inspect rotors, pads, hose, and EPB wiring harness for damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect EPB motor harness
   Locate the electric parking brake actuator connector at the top/rear of each rear caliper. Release the lock tab and unplug the connector. Tuck the harness aside so it cannot be pinched or stressed during caliper removal.
   ⚠If you skipped placing the EPB in service mode, STOP and do so now. Forcing the actuator open mechanically will damage it.
2. 2

   Open bleeder and partially drain caliper
   Place a catch pan under the caliper. Crack the bleeder screw to relieve residual pressure and drain old fluid from the caliper, then snug it lightly closed.
3. 3

   Remove brake pads and slide pin bolts
   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts and lift the caliper body off the bracket. Support the caliper with a strap. Slide out the brake pads and inspect; if pads have less than ~3 mm friction material remaining, replace them as part of this job.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Place a catch pan beneath the caliper. Disconnect the flexible brake hose at the caliper (banjo or threaded fitting depending on build). Cap the hose immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Discard copper crush washers if a banjo-style fitting is used.
   ⚠Do not let the hose dangle or twist. Plug it with a clean cap to prevent dirt ingress.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket from knuckle
   Unbolt the caliper bracket from the rear knuckle and remove it. Set aside on a clean surface. Inspect bracket abutment clips and replace if corroded.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Extract caliper piston
   With the caliper on the bench, place a wood block in the caliper cavity to cushion the piston. Use low-pressure compressed air at the fluid inlet to walk the piston out, OR use a piston-extraction tool. Because this is an EPB caliper, the piston typically must be unscrewed from the actuator spindle — rotate counterclockwise with the appropriate piston tool until it is free.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of the piston bore. Pistons can eject with significant force under air pressure.
   ⚠Do not use excessive air pressure. EPB rear pistons are spindle-driven; forcing them with air alone can damage the internal screw mechanism.
7. 7

   Remove dust boot and piston seal
   Carefully pry out the dust boot. Using a non-metallic seal pick, remove the square-cut piston seal from the caliper bore groove. Do not score the bore — any nicks will cause leaks.
   ⚠Aluminum caliper bores scratch easily. Use only plastic or brass picks.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect
   Clean the caliper body, bore, and piston with fresh brake fluid or denatured alcohol — NEVER petroleum solvents, which destroy seals. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion. Inspect the piston: if plated surface is scored, pitted, or corroded, replace it. Inspect slide pins and boots; replace any torn boots.
   ⚠If the caliper bore shows pitting or corrosion that cannot be polished out with a bore hone, the caliper must be replaced — not rebuilt.
9. 9

   Install new piston seal and dust boot
   Coat the new square-cut seal with clean DOT 3 brake fluid and seat it evenly in the bore groove. Install the new dust boot's outer lip into the caliper groove first. Lubricate the new piston with brake fluid.
10. 10

    Install piston
    Thread the piston back onto the EPB spindle by rotating clockwise with the piston tool while pressing inward. Continue until the piston is fully bottomed and the cutouts on the piston face are aligned per the manufacturer-specified orientation (typically with the indexing notches positioned to clear the inboard pad tab). Seat the inner lip of the dust boot into the piston groove.
    ⚠Incorrect piston rotational alignment will prevent the inboard pad from sitting flat and can cause uneven wear or pad delamination.
11. 11

    Service slide pins
    Clean the slide pins and bores. Apply silicone brake grease to the pins and reinstall with new boots if torn. Verify the pins move freely with no binding.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the caliper bracket to the knuckle. Torque the bracket bolts to specification.
2. Install brake pads with new anti-rattle hardware as needed. Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points — never to the friction surface.
3. Position the caliper body over the pads and onto the bracket. Install the slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
4. Reconnect the flexible brake hose to the caliper using NEW copper crush washers if banjo-style. Torque the banjo/fitting to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. Reconnect the EPB motor harness, ensuring the connector clicks fully home and the harness is routed clear of the rotor and suspension.
6. Refill the brake fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3 to MAX. Bleed the brake system, starting at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and working closer; on a Model Y this is typically right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Tighten the bleeder screw to specification at each corner. Continue until clear, bubble-free fluid flows and pedal is firm.
7. Reinstall rear wheels. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
8. Lower the vehicle and re-torque lug nuts in star pattern with the wheels on the ground.
9. Reconnect the 12V battery.
10. Power up the vehicle. Use the touchscreen Service Mode to exit Brake Service Mode, which will re-engage the EPB actuators. Listen for normal cycling sound on each side.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary, pump the brake pedal — it should become firm within 2-3 strokes and not sink under steady pressure.
• Confirm no brake fluid leaks at the caliper bleeder, banjo/hose fitting, or piston dust boot.
• Engage and release the parking brake from the touchscreen several times; both rear calipers should actuate audibly and symmetrically.
• Clear any chassis or EPB-related fault codes via the scan tool. No active brake or EPB DTCs should remain.
• Perform a low-speed road test in an empty area: light braking from 10-15 mph, then progressively firmer braking. Pedal should remain firm; no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
• Re-bed the brake pads per Tesla's published procedure (series of moderate decelerations) if pads were replaced.
• Re-check fluid level after road test and top off to MAX with DOT 3.
• Note in service records: brake fluid was flushed today — Tesla recommends repeating brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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