Replace the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise/Exige platform, so the rear sway bar mounts to chassis brackets with rubber/poly bushings that wear out and cause clunking over bumps.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar bushing set (Roadster/Lotus Elise-spec) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified rear anti-roll bar bushing — verify size against original; Lotus Elise S2 bushings are commonly cross-referenced but confirm fitment for your Roadster

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (1st or Reverse) — early Roadsters have a manual gearbox — and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob kept well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage auxiliary battery before working under the vehicle. On the 2012 Roadster, the 12V battery is located in the front compartment area — refer to the owner's manual for exact location and disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly while the wheels are still on the ground (only if wheel removal is required for access).
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands. Confirm stability before going underneath.
9. Lay out new bushings and inspect them against the originals to confirm correct inner diameter and profile.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect the work area
   From under the rear of the car, locate the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) running across the chassis behind the rear subframe area. Identify the two bracket-and-bushing assemblies that clamp the bar to the chassis, and the two end links that connect the bar to the suspension uprights/control arms. Visually trace all nearby cabling — note the location of any orange HV cables and stay clear of them.
   ⚠️If orange HV cabling runs near the sway bar mounts on your specific car, do not proceed without proper HV training.
2. 2

   Remove rear wheels (if needed for access)
   If access to the sway bar bracket bolts is restricted, remove the rear wheels. Many Roadster owners can complete this job with wheels on, but clearance is tight.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links (one side)
   Support the sway bar with a stand or strap. Loosen and remove the nut at the lower end of one sway bar end link where it attaches to the bar (or, if easier, where it attaches to the suspension). Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen/hex key as you turn the nut to prevent the stud from spinning. Repeat on the other side if needed to allow the bar to drop free of the brackets.
   ⚠Sway bar end link studs that have spun in the past may be seized. Do not apply heat near the chassis or HV components — use penetrating oil and patience.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the sway bar bracket bolts
   Unbolt the two bracket assemblies that clamp the sway bar to the chassis. Note the orientation of each bracket and any spacers/washers — photograph before removal. Support the bar so it does not fall.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Lower the sway bar enough to access the bushings
   With brackets removed and at least one end link disconnected, carefully lower the sway bar enough to slide the old bushings off, or open the split bushings and peel them away from the bar. Do not let the bar hang on any cable, line, or HV component.
6. 6

   Remove old bushings
   Slide or peel the worn bushings off the bar. Inspect the bar at the bushing contact points for wear, corrosion, or grooving — light surface wear is acceptable; deep grooves indicate the bar itself may need replacement. Clean the bar at the bushing seats with a wire brush and a clean rag.
7. 7

   Install new bushings
   Apply a thin film of rubber-safe silicone grease (NEVER petroleum grease on rubber bushings) to the bar where the bushing rides and to the inner bushing surface. Install new bushings in the same orientation as the originals (split facing the same direction the originals did, typically toward the bar's neutral pivot zone).
8. 8

   Reinstall the brackets
   Position the brackets over the new bushings and start the bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum chassis. Snug evenly side-to-side, then torque to the verified specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the sway bar end links
   Reattach the end link(s) you disconnected. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen/hex key and torque the nut to the verified spec. Confirm the link's bushings/ball joints are seated correctly and the boot (if equipped) is intact.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final inspection underneath
    Verify nothing was disturbed: brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, parking brake cable, and any HV cabling are all routed correctly with no contact against the sway bar or brackets. Confirm both bushings sit centered in their brackets.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall rear wheels if removed. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative).
5. Allow the car to sit on its wheels and gently rock the rear of the car side-to-side to seat the suspension before any test drive.

Verification

• With the car on the ground, push down firmly on each rear corner — the sway bar should resist body roll without any clunking or knocking.
• Test drive at low speed over a speed bump or uneven surface and listen for clunks from the rear; new bushings should eliminate any previous knocking from worn bushings.
• After 50-100 miles, re-check the sway bar bracket bolts and end link nuts for proper torque — aluminum chassis threads can settle.
• While under the car, take the opportunity to inspect items Tesla's marketing calls 'lifetime' but actually need service: gearbox oil (Roadster uses 75W-90 GL-5 in the rear differential / 2.0 qt and Tesla gearbox oil in the transmission), and brake fluid (DOT 3) which Tesla recommends replacing every 2 years regardless of mileage.
• Confirm no warning lights or unusual handling on a short road test.

More procedures for this vehicle