Replace a rear sway bar end link on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its rear suspension architecture with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so most fasteners and links are Lotus-spec rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar end link (Lotus/Tesla Roadster spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear sway bar link assembly for 2010-2012 Tesla Roadster / Lotus Elise platform

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P (if equipped), and engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage accessory battery (located in the Roadster under a panel in the rear; refer to architecture notes and the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location on your VIN).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (Roadster has specific reinforced jacking pads on the aluminum chassis — do NOT lift on the floor pan or extrusions) and support on jack stands.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
10. Inspect the new sway bar link and confirm it matches the original in length, thread pitch, and bushing/ball-stud configuration before installing.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate the rear sway bar end link
   With the wheel removed, locate the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) running laterally across the rear subframe. Follow it outboard to the vertical end link that connects the sway bar to the lower suspension/upright. Apply penetrating oil to both link nuts and allow to soak for several minutes if corrosion is present.
2. 2

   Loosen the upper link fastener
   Place a hex/Allen key into the end of the link shaft (most Roadster/Lotus links use an internal hex to prevent the stud from spinning) and use a wrench to break the upper link nut loose. Do not fully remove yet.
   ⚠If the ball stud spins freely and the nut will not break loose, do NOT use heat or impact near the chassis. Cut the stud with a small grinder or hacksaw using shielding to protect surrounding components and any nearby wiring.
3. 3

   Loosen the lower link fastener
   Repeat the same process at the lower attachment point on the suspension component. Hold the shaft with the hex key and back the nut off with a wrench.
4. 4

   Remove the old end link
   Fully remove both nuts and withdraw the old end link from the vehicle. Note the orientation, any spacers, and the order of any washers or bushings — the new link must be installed in the same orientation.
5. 5

   Compare old and new links
   Place the old and new links side by side. Confirm overall length, thread length, ball-stud angles, and any captive hardware match exactly. A mismatched link can preload the sway bar and cause handling issues or premature bushing failure.
6. 6

   Install the new sway bar link
   Position the new link in the original orientation. Hand-thread the upper and lower nuts onto the studs. Do not fully torque yet — leave both nuts snug so the link can self-align as the suspension settles.
7. 7

   Torque the link fasteners
   Hold the link shaft with the hex key and torque both upper and lower fasteners to specification. Use the Sway Bar Link Nuts spec for retained-stud style nuts, or the Sway Bar Link spec if your link uses a through-bolt configuration. Verify which style is on your vehicle before torquing.
   ⚠Over-torquing can crush the rubber/poly bushing or strip the aluminum-threaded components in the Lotus-derived suspension. Use a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Inspect adjacent components
   While access is open, inspect the sway bar bushings, bracket bolts, lower control arm bushings, and shock/strut lower mount for cracking, cracking polyurethane, or fluid leaks. Roadsters are 13+ years old and original suspension bushings are commonly degraded.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the wheel just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Fully lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Cycle the ignition and verify no warning lights related to the brake or stability systems remain illuminated.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on the rear corner — suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunking.
• Grasp the new sway bar link by hand and check for any free play at either ball/bush joint — there should be none.
• Test drive at low speed over a series of small bumps and through a tight turn; listen for clunks or knocks from the rear, which would indicate a loose link or incorrect orientation.
• After approximately 100 miles, re-check both link nuts to confirm they remain at proper torque — the Roadster's aluminum-tub chassis can occasionally allow fasteners to settle.
• Note: Tesla does not publish a sway bar link service interval, but inspect the links any time rear suspension or alignment work is performed.

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