suspension
Sway Bar - Rear
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
9
Steps
10
Replace the rear sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so most suspension hardware is Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.
Warnings
⚠️The Roadster has its HV battery pack mounted behind the seats with HV cabling routed through the chassis. Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable while working under the rear of the car.
⚠️Never rely solely on a floor jack. Always support the vehicle on rated jack stands before going underneath.
⚠The Roadster uses a bonded/extruded aluminum chassis (Lotus-derived). Do not strike chassis members with a hammer and do not use them as pry points — damage is expensive and often non-repairable.
⚠Service information for the 2012 Roadster is scarce. If any fastener, routing, or clearance differs from this guide, STOP and verify against the Tesla Roadster Service Manual before proceeding.
ℹ️Sway bar end link shafts typically have a hex broach — hold the shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning and damage.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10-19mm)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft)Essential
Calibrated torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Floor jack with low-profile saddleEssential
Jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Penetrating oil
Trim/panel removal tools (if rear underbody panels must come off)
Parts
- Rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster / Lotus-equivalent rear sway bar
- Sway bar bushings × 2 — OEM-spec rear sway bar bushing set
- Sway bar end links (recommended if worn) × 2 — OEM-spec rear sway bar end link
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (or P on 2-speed/early units), and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — disconnect the negative terminal first and isolate it.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Chock the front wheels.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the tires are still on the ground.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster has specific aluminum chassis jack pads — do not jack on the floor pan or suspension components) and support on jack stands.
- Remove both rear wheels.
- If equipped, remove the rear underbody/diffuser panel as needed to access the sway bar.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and photograph the existing installationBefore disassembly, photograph the rear sway bar, end link orientation, bushing bracket orientation, and any spacers or washers. The Roadster's rear suspension is tightly packaged and reassembly orientation matters.
- 2Apply penetrating oilSpray penetrating oil on the sway bar end link nuts (both upper and lower), the sway bar bracket bolts, and any related fasteners. Allow several minutes to soak. Roadsters often live in coastal climates and fasteners can be seized.
- 3Disconnect rear sway bar end linksLocate the end link connecting each side of the sway bar to the rear suspension upright/lower control arm (per the manufacturer-specified configuration). Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key on the hex broach and loosen the nut with a wrench. Remove the link from the sway bar end. If the link is being replaced, also disconnect it from the suspension side.⚠Do not use an impact gun without holding the shaft — the internal hex will round out and the link will have to be cut off.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Support the sway barPlace a small jack or have an assistant support the sway bar before removing the bracket bolts so it does not drop unexpectedly.
- 5Remove sway bar bracket boltsRemove the bolts securing the two sway bar bushing brackets (D-brackets) to the chassis/subframe. Note the orientation of each bracket and any shims/spacers. Set hardware aside in order.⚠On the Lotus-derived aluminum chassis, do not over-torque or cross-thread these fasteners — thread repair in aluminum is difficult.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 6Maneuver the sway bar out of the chassisCarefully rotate and slide the rear sway bar out from the chassis. Clearance around the rear subframe, exhaust-area panels, and HV cable routing is tight on the Roadster — work slowly and verify you are not pulling against any wiring, HV cabling, or coolant lines.⚠️If the bar contacts an orange HV cable or the HV battery enclosure, STOP and reassess routing. Do not force the bar past HV components.
- 7Transfer bushings and inspectSlide the old bushings off the bar (or off the new bar if pre-installed). Install fresh bushings in the correct orientation on the new sway bar. Lubricate only with bushing-specific lubricant if supplied — do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber bushings. Inspect end links for play, torn boots, or seized shafts and replace if questionable.
- 8Install the new rear sway barManeuver the new sway bar into position, mirroring the orientation of the original. Loosely install the bushing brackets to the chassis with their bolts — do not torque yet.
- 9Reconnect end linksReconnect each end link to the sway bar (and to the suspension side if disconnected). Start all nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- 10Final torque sequenceTorque the sway bar bracket bolts to specification. Torque the sway bar end link nuts to specification while holding the shaft with an Allen key. Recheck both sides.⚠These are CRITICAL fasteners. A loose sway bar bracket or end link can cause unpredictable handling at speed.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall any underbody/diffuser panels that were removed.
- Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Reconnect the 12V battery (negative terminal last) in the front trunk area.
- Close the frunk and verify all interior electronics power up normally.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, grasp each end of the sway bar and check there is no excessive play at the bushings or end links.
- Visually confirm the sway bar is centered side-to-side and not contacting the chassis, exhaust-area panels, HV cabling, or coolant lines.
- Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps. Then perform gentle slalom inputs at moderate speed to confirm the bar is engaging symmetrically.
- After 50-100 miles, re-check the sway bar bracket bolts and end link nuts for proper torque — the Roadster's chassis transmits a lot of road input and fasteners can settle.
- While the rear of the car is in the air, this is a good time to also inspect the rear drive unit (gearbox) for leaks. Note that the Roadster's gearbox oil is NOT lifetime-fill — refer to the Tesla Roadster service schedule for the recommended interval.
- If the 12V battery in this Roadster is original or unknown age (typical 3-5 year service life), consider testing or replacing it while you have access.