Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

Replace a press-in rear wheel bearing on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, the rear hub/bearing assembly is a Lotus-sourced press-in design — this job requires a hydraulic press and proper bearing drivers, not a bolt-in cartridge swap.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing (Lotus Elise-spec press-in bearing for Roadster rear hub) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear wheel bearing for 2012 Tesla Roadster / Lotus Elise rear hub
• Axle nut (single-use) and new cotter pin or stake-nut as applicable × 1 — OEM-specified axle retention hardware
• Hub circlip / retaining ring (if used by this hub design) × 1 — OEM-specified hub circlip

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P (or in gear if manual transmission unit), engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery per the Tesla Roadster Service Manual (location differs from later Teslas — typically accessed in the front compartment area on the Roadster).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts and the rear axle nut (cotter pin removed first) while the vehicle is still on the ground — both are very high torque.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points (Lotus-style chassis — do not lift on floor pans or sills incorrectly).
8. Remove the rear wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the rear brake caliper from its bracket and support it with a hanger or bungee — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the caliper bracket if needed to access the rotor, then slide the brake rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized, use the threaded jacking holes (if present) or penetrating oil — do not strike the hub face hard.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the flexible brake hose.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor and inspect
   Locate the rear ABS speed sensor on the upright/hub. Remove the sensor retaining bolt and carefully pull the sensor out of its bore. Set it aside where it will not be damaged. Inspect the reluctor/tone ring on the hub for damage.
   ⚠ABS sensors seize in their bores — twist gently while pulling. Do not pry on the sensor body.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove axle nut and separate axle from hub
   With the axle nut already loosened, fully remove the nut and discard it (single-use). Push the outer CV stub out of the hub splines using a soft-faced punch. If the axle splines are seized in the hub, use a hub puller — do not hammer directly on the threaded end of the axle. Support the inboard end of the axle so the inner CV joint is not over-articulated.
   ⚠Do not let the axle hang by the inner CV — over-articulation can damage the joint.
   Torque spec

   Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the hub/upright assembly from the vehicle
   Refer to the Tesla Roadster Service Manual for the exact suspension disassembly required to free the rear upright. Typically this requires disconnecting the toe link, upper and lower control arm balljoints/pivots, and supporting the upright as it is removed. Mark any eccentric alignment cams before disturbing them. Bring the upright to the bench for pressing.
   ⚠Mark and photograph all alignment-sensitive fasteners before loosening — a rear alignment will still be required after this job.
   ℹ️Suspension fastener torques are not in the verified list — torque to OEM specification on reassembly. Refer to Tesla Service Manual.
5. 5

   Remove the hub flange from the upright
   Secure the upright in a press. Using the appropriate driver, press the hub flange out of the bearing inner race. The inner race typically remains on the hub flange — it must be removed with a bearing splitter or grinder + chisel relief cut to free it.
   ⚠When using a grinder to relieve the inner race, do not nick the hub flange seat surface — damage here will ruin the new bearing.
6. 6

   Remove the bearing retainer / circlip
   If the upright uses circlips to retain the bearing, remove them with snap-ring pliers. Note their orientation. If a retainer plate or bolts secure the bearing, remove them and note their order.
7. 7

   Press out the old bearing
   Using a bearing driver sized to push on the bearing's outer race, press the old bearing out of the upright bore in the direction specified by the OEM (usually outward). Support the upright squarely in the press to avoid cracking the casting.
   ⚠Press only on the outer race when removing — improper support can crack the aluminum upright, which is not separately serviceable.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the upright bore
   Thoroughly clean the bearing bore with brake cleaner and a lint-free rag. Inspect the bore for scoring, ovality, or damage. Light corrosion can be polished out with a Scotch-Brite pad; deep damage means the upright must be replaced. A light film of clean grease or anti-seize on the bore aids installation.
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing
   Position the new bearing squarely in the bore. Press it in using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race until it is fully seated against its shoulder or until the circlip groove is exposed. Never press on the inner race when installing into the upright.
   ⚠️Pressing on the inner race during installation will destroy the new bearing immediately. Use the correct adapter.
10. 10

    Reinstall retainer/circlip and press hub flange into bearing
    Reinstall any circlip or retainer plate. Then press the hub flange into the new bearing, supporting the bearing's INNER race from below so the press load goes through the inner race only — not through the bearing balls. Press until the hub flange is fully seated.
    ⚠️Failure to support the inner race during hub flange installation will brinell the new bearing and cause early failure.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall upright on vehicle
    Reinstall the upright onto the suspension, reconnecting all control arms, toe link, and any sensors. Align eccentric cams to your reference marks. Torque all suspension fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (these values are not in the verified torque list).
12. 12

    Reinstall axle, ABS sensor, rotor, and caliper
    Slide the rear axle stub through the hub splines. Install a NEW axle nut and torque to the verified spec, then install a new cotter pin (or stake the nut, depending on design). Reinstall the ABS sensor and torque its bolt. Reinstall the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper — torque caliper hardware to OEM specification.
    ⚠Axle nut is a critical fastener. Use only a new nut, torque to spec, and verify cotter pin/stake engagement.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)

    ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the caliper pistons.
6. Have a four-wheel alignment performed — any rear suspension disassembly on the Roadster requires re-alignment.

Verification

• Verify no ABS warning light is illuminated after a short test drive — confirms the speed sensor and tone ring are reading correctly.
• Listen for any growling or humming from the rear at 30-50 mph that changes with cornering load — indicates an improperly seated bearing.
• Re-check the axle nut torque and cotter pin/stake after the first 100 miles.
• Confirm no grease weep from the new bearing seals after the first drive cycle.
• Note: While the wheel is off, this is a logical time to inspect rear brake pads/rotors and (if due) service the rear gearbox/diff oil — Tesla no longer treats drive unit gear oil as 'lifetime' and recommends periodic service.
• Note: If brake fluid is more than 2 years old, schedule a brake fluid flush per Tesla's 2-year recommendation.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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