drivetrain
Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
9
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the rear wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster uses Lotus Elise-derived rear suspension components, so many parts and procedures follow Lotus service practice rather than typical Tesla service info.
Warnings
⚠️The Roadster's HV battery pack sits behind the seats and along the spine of the chassis. Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. This is a non-HV job, but route awareness is critical.
⚠Roadster uses a bonded/riveted aluminum chassis (Lotus-derived). Do not strike suspension uprights or chassis members with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
⚠The axle nut is torqued to 200 Nm and may be staked or use a single-use locking feature. Do not reuse if the manufacturer specifies replacement.
ℹ️Roadster service information is rare. If anything looks different from this procedure, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified Roadster specialist before proceeding.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10–19mm)Essential
Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Threadlocker (medium-strength, blue)Essential
Wire/zip tie to support caliperEssential
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Parts
- Rear wheel bearing hub assembly (Lotus Elise-pattern, Roadster-specific application) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified rear hub assembly — verify fitment via Tesla Roadster parts catalog
- Axle / hub nut (single-use if specified by manufacturer) × 1 — OEM replacement axle nut
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P, and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster, the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — refer to the owner documentation for exact location and disconnect procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Loosen (do not remove) the axle nut on the affected side while the wheel is on the ground — this nut is torqued to 200 Nm and is easier to break loose with the wheel weighted.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (Roadster has specific reinforced jack pads — do NOT lift on the aluminum chassis tub) and support on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel.
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliperUnbolt the rear brake caliper bracket from the upright. Support the caliper with a wire or zip tie to the suspension — do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Inspect the brake hose and pads while access is open.
- 2Remove brake rotorSlide the rear brake rotor off the hub. If corroded in place, apply penetrating oil and tap gently around the hat with a soft-faced mallet. Do not strike the upright.
- 3Disconnect ABS sensorLocate the rear ABS wheel speed sensor on the upright/hub. Remove the retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor. Set it aside where it will not be damaged. Unclip any harness retainers as needed.⚠ABS sensor tips are fragile. Do not pry against the tone ring.
- 4Remove axle nutFully remove the axle/hub nut that was loosened during preparation. Discard if it is a single-use locking nut per OEM specification.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 5Separate CV / driveshaft from hubPush the outer CV stub axle inward through the hub splines. If seized, use a manufacturer-specified hub puller. Support the outer CV joint — do not allow it to hang on the inner joint. If the inner CV is bolted to the differential flange, you may leave it attached and swing the shaft aside.⚠Do not hammer the axle stub through — damage to threads or the CV joint will result. Use a puller if needed.
- 6Remove wheel bearing hub assemblyFrom the rear of the upright, remove the hub mounting bolts securing the bearing hub assembly to the upright. Support the hub as the final bolt is removed. Withdraw the hub assembly from the upright.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 7Clean and inspect mating surfacesThoroughly clean the upright bore and mating face. Inspect for cracks, corrosion, or elongation of bolt holes. Inspect the CV stub splines for wear. Replace any damaged hardware to OEM specification.
- 8Install new wheel bearing hub assemblyPosition the new hub assembly to the upright. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolts if specified by the manufacturer. Install bolts hand-tight, then torque in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall CV stub axleSlide the outer CV stub through the new hub splines. Install a new axle nut (or the original if reuse is permitted) finger-tight at this stage; final torque is applied with the wheel on the ground.
- 10Reinstall ABS sensorClean the sensor tip and bore. Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor and torque the retaining bolt to specification. Reroute and clip the harness in its original path.
- 11Reinstall brake rotor and caliperPlace the brake rotor on the hub. Install the caliper/caliper bracket. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts and torque to specification. Verify the caliper moves freely and the pads sit correctly on the rotor.
- 12Final axle nut torqueReinstall the wheel and lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle so the tire is loaded, then torque the axle nut to specification. Stake or peen the nut if the OEM design requires it.⚠Under-torquing the axle nut can allow the bearing to fail catastrophically at speed. Verify with a calibrated torque wrench.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern with the vehicle lowered.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Pump the brake pedal multiple times until firm before moving the vehicle — the caliper pistons may have retracted slightly.
- Confirm the parking brake operates correctly (Roadster uses a cable-operated rear parking brake).
Verification
- With the vehicle safely supported, spin the rear wheel by hand — listen for grinding, roughness, or notchiness.
- Test drive at low speed and verify no humming, vibration, or ABS warning. The Roadster does not display modern Tesla-style alerts; watch the dash cluster for any ABS/traction warning lamp.
- After 80–160 km (50–100 mi), re-check the axle nut torque and lug nut torque.
- While the rear is apart, this is a good opportunity to verify the rear differential / gearbox oil condition. Tesla's modern guidance is that drive unit / gearbox oil is NOT lifetime — inspect and service per Tesla's current Roadster recommendations.
- If brake fluid was last changed more than 2 years ago, schedule a brake fluid flush — Tesla recommends every 2 years regardless of mileage.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
B0290Heated Steering Wheel CircuitC0021LF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0022RF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0035Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0036Left Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0040Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0041Right Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0050Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0051Right Rear Wheel Speed Signal ErraticU0229Lost Communication With Heated Steering Wheel ModuleU0314Software Incompatibility With Four Wheel Drive Control ModuleU0414Invalid Data Received From Four Wheel Drive Control Module
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →