Replace the front brake caliper assembly on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4, including bleeding the brake system to remove air from the hydraulic circuit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM or quality aftermarket caliper for affected side
• Brake hose copper crush washers × 2 — 90430-12031 or equivalent (2 per banjo bolt)
• Caliper slide pin bolts (if corroded) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground, engage parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
2. Remove approximately half the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using a turkey baster or fluid transfer pump to prevent overflow during caliper compression
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground
4. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point and secure with jack stands under frame rails
5. Remove front wheel completely on the side being serviced
6. Inspect brake hose for cracks, bulges, or deterioration; replace if damaged

Procedure

1. 1

   Clean brake caliper area
   Spray brake cleaner on the caliper mounting area, slide pins, and brake hose connection. Use a wire brush to remove rust and debris from caliper bracket and mounting surfaces. This prevents contamination and ensures proper torque values during reassembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Place a drain pan under the caliper. Using a flare nut wrench, loosen the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper inlet. Remove the banjo bolt completely and immediately plug the brake hose with a rubber cap or wrap with plastic and rubber band to minimize fluid loss and air entry. Discard the old copper crush washers.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from the hose and caliper. Have rags and drain pan ready to catch fluid and prevent paint damage.
3. 3

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper (accessed from behind the caliper bracket). Use a 17mm wrench or socket to remove both lower and upper caliper mounting bolts completely. These bolts may have thread-locking compound and require significant force to loosen.
   ⚠Support the caliper with your hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling and damaging the brake rotor or suspension components.
4. 4

   Remove old caliper
   Lift the caliper away from the brake rotor and bracket. Inspect the caliper bracket and slide pin bushings for wear or damage. If the bracket shows significant corrosion or the slide pins are seized, consider replacing the bracket assembly as well. Set the old caliper aside on a clean surface.
5. 5

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old unit (piston size, mounting hole pattern, brake hose inlet position). If the new caliper has protective caps or plugs on the inlet port, remove them. Ensure the piston is fully retracted; if not, carefully push it in using a C-clamp against the piston face.
6. 6

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align the mounting holes with the caliper bracket slide pins. Ensure brake pads are properly seated in the bracket if they were disturbed. Thread both caliper mounting bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement before tightening.
7. 7

   Torque caliper mounting bolts
   Using a torque wrench, tighten both caliper mounting bolts to specification. Torque in a cross pattern (alternating between upper and lower bolts) to ensure even seating. Verify both bolts are fully seated against the caliper housing.
8. 8

   Connect brake hose to new caliper
   Remove the plug from the brake hose. Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the banjo fitting (one against the caliper body, one under the bolt head). Position the banjo fitting to the caliper inlet port and thread the banjo bolt by hand. Ensure the hose is not twisted or kinked.
   ⚠Using old copper washers or omitting washers will cause brake fluid leaks and system failure. Always use new washers.
9. 9

   Torque brake hose banjo bolt
   Using a torque wrench and flare nut wrench, tighten the brake hose banjo bolt to specification. Do not over-torque as this can strip the caliper inlet threads or damage the crush washers. Verify the brake hose is properly routed and does not contact suspension components or the wheel during full steering lock.
10. 10

    Bleed brake caliper
    Locate the bleeder screw on the back of the new caliper. Attach a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Have an assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and allow fluid and air to escape until flow stops, then close the bleeder screw before releasing the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the tubing (typically 4-6 cycles). Check and refill master cylinder reservoir between every 2-3 pumps to prevent introducing more air.
    ⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding or massive air will enter the system requiring complete system bleeding.
    ⚠Always close the bleeder screw BEFORE releasing brake pedal pressure or air will be drawn back into the caliper.
11. 11

    Torque bleeder screw
    After bleeding is complete and no air bubbles remain, tighten the bleeder screw to specification while an assistant maintains light pressure on the brake pedal. Remove the bleeder tube and wipe away any spilled brake fluid with a clean rag.
    ⚠Bleeder screws are brass and easily damaged. Do not exceed specified torque or the screw may strip or break.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall wheel
    Clean the wheel hub face and wheel mounting surface with a wire brush. Install the wheel and thread all lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
13. 13

    Final brake system check
    Lower the vehicle completely and remove jack stands. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times to seat the caliper piston against the brake pads and establish proper pedal height. The pedal should become firm after several strokes. Check the master cylinder reservoir and top off to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
    ⚠️If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or travels to the floor after pumping, DO NOT DRIVE the vehicle. Air remains in the system or there is a fluid leak. Repeat bleeding procedure or consult a professional.

Reassembly

1. Verify all brake line connections are tight and show no signs of fluid leakage
2. Confirm caliper mounting bolts and slide pins are properly torqued and secure
3. Ensure brake hose routing does not interfere with suspension travel or steering components at full lock positions
4. Check master cylinder fluid level is between MIN and MAX marks with DOT 3 brake fluid

Verification

• Start the engine and pump the brake pedal 5-10 times; pedal should feel firm and consistent with at least 2 inches of travel remaining before full depression
• Inspect all brake line connections and the bleeder screw for fluid leaks while an assistant applies firm brake pedal pressure for 30 seconds
• Test drive in a safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) to verify braking function before returning to normal driving
• Perform several moderate brake applications to ensure even braking with no pulling to either side
• After 50-100 miles, re-check master cylinder fluid level and inspect caliper area for any fluid leaks
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles of driving

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