suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Front Lower
for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
13
This procedure covers the replacement of the front lower control arm bushings on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with the 2.5L I4 engine, requiring removal of the control arm from the vehicle.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Torquing while suspended can cause premature bushing failure and handling issues.
⚠Ball joint separation tools can cause sudden release. Keep hands and face clear of the separation point.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (2)Essential
Torque wrench (0-200 Nm)Essential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
17mm wrenchEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/installation tool kitEssential
6mm Allen key
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pry bar
Hammer
Parts
- Front lower control arm bushing kit (2 bushings per side) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Ball joint cotter pin × 2 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands placed on frame rails
- Remove front wheels
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-20 minutes
Procedure
- 1Disconnect sway bar end linkLocate the sway bar end link connecting to the front lower control arm. Hold the ball joint shaft with a 6mm Allen key to prevent spinning, then remove the lower nut using a 17mm socket. Separate the end link from the control arm.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pinLocate the ball joint castle nut where the lower control arm connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Discard the old cotter pin.
- 3Loosen ball joint castle nutUsing a 21mm socket, loosen the ball joint castle nut but do not remove it completely. Leave it threaded on by 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent sudden separation.
- 4Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool with a hammer or use the tool's forcing mechanism to break the taper free. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.⚠Ball joint may separate suddenly. Ensure the castle nut is still threaded on to control the separation.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear control arm bolt that passes through the rear bushing and connects to the subframe. Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, remove this bolt completely. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 6Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front control arm bolt that passes through the front bushing and connects to the subframe. Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, remove this bolt completely. Support the control arm as you remove the final bolt, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
- 7Press out old bushingsSecure the control arm in a vise or on a hydraulic press. Using the appropriate bushing removal tool or press adapters, press out the old bushings from the control arm. The bushings should press straight out through one side of the control arm bore. Clean the bushing bores thoroughly with a wire brush and inspect for cracks or damage.ℹ️Note the orientation of any offset bushings before removal. Some bushings have a specific installation direction.
- 8Press in new bushingsApply a light coat of soapy water or bushing lubricant to the outer sleeve of the new bushings. Position the new bushing squarely on the control arm bore, ensuring correct orientation if the bushing is offset. Using a hydraulic press and the appropriate installation adapters, press the bushing straight into the bore until it is fully seated and flush with both sides of the control arm.
- 9Install control arm to subframePosition the control arm back into its mounting location on the subframe. Insert both the front and rear mounting bolts through the bushings and subframe brackets, but do not tighten them yet. Thread the nuts on finger-tight to hold the control arm in position.⚠Do not torque control arm bolts at this stage. They must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension.
- 10Connect ball joint to knuckleLift the outer end of the control arm and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the stud through the knuckle and thread on the castle nut. Tighten the nut to specification using a torque wrench, then align the castle nut slots with the ball joint stud hole. Insert a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect sway bar end linkPosition the sway bar end link ball stud into the control arm mounting hole. Thread on the nut finger-tight. Hold the ball stud with a 6mm Allen key and torque the nut to specification using a torque wrench and 17mm socket.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and thread lug nuts on by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground with partial vehicle weight on the suspension, but do not remove jack stands yet. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 13Torque control arm bolts with vehicle weightWith the vehicle weight now on the suspension, torque both front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This ensures the bushings are in their neutral position and prevents premature wear. After torquing, fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.⚠This is a critical step. Control arm bolts torqued while suspension is hanging will cause binding and premature bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Repeat all steps for the opposite side if replacing both control arm bushings
- Double-check that all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent on ball joint castle nut
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no clunking or unusual noises from front suspension
- Check for proper steering response and straight-line tracking
- Perform a visual inspection underneath to confirm no loose fasteners or components
- Schedule a front-end alignment within 100 miles as suspension geometry may have shifted