suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Front Upper
for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
16
Steps
14
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front upper control arm bushing on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with the 2.5L I4 engine, requiring control arm removal and bushing press-out/press-in operations.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Control arm is under suspension load. Do not remove mounting bolts unless suspension is properly supported.
⚠Ball joint taper fit requires significant force to separate. Ensure separator tool is properly seated to avoid injury.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension (wheels on ground). Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
ℹ️This vehicle uses a strut-type front suspension. The upper control arm is integrated with the strut assembly mounting area.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
14mm socket for ball joint nutEssential
17mm socket and wrench for control arm boltsEssential
14mm socket for strut tower nutsEssential
14mm wrench and 6mm Allen key for sway bar link
Ball joint separator tool or pickle forkEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Hydraulic press or control arm bushing press kitEssential
Bushing removal and installation adaptersEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
New cotter pinEssential
Parts
- Front upper control arm bushing × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at frame rails
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
- Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut, control arm bolts, and strut tower nuts. Allow to soak 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint cotter pin and nutLocate the upper ball joint where it connects to the steering knuckle. Remove and discard the cotter pin using pliers or side cutters. Using a 14mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut completely. Keep track of any washers present.
- 2Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer or tighten the separator screw to break the taper fit. The ball joint stud should pop free from the knuckle bore. Do not damage the ball joint boot if reusing the control arm.⚠Wear safety glasses during this step as the ball joint may separate suddenly under pressure.
- 3Disconnect sway bar link (if necessary)If the sway bar link interferes with control arm removal, use a 6mm Allen key to hold the link shaft while removing the upper nut with a 14mm socket. Disconnect the link from the control arm or strut assembly as needed for clearance.
- 4Remove control arm mounting boltsLocate the two control arm mounting bolts that secure the arm to the frame/subframe. These are typically at the front and rear of the control arm. Using a 17mm socket and wrench, remove both mounting bolts completely. Support the control arm by hand as you remove the final bolt to prevent it from falling.⚠Control arm will be free once both bolts are removed. Ensure it does not drop on hands or feet.
- 5Remove control arm from vehicleManeuver the control arm out of the suspension area. You may need to rotate or angle it to clear the steering knuckle, sway bar, and frame components. Inspect the ball joint and bushings for wear patterns. Take photos if helpful for reassembly orientation.
- 6Mark bushing orientationBefore removing the old bushing, note its installed orientation. Mark the control arm and bushing with a paint pen or take clear photos showing the void areas or any offset in the bushing design. The bushing must be installed in the same orientation to maintain proper suspension geometry.⚠Installing the bushing in the wrong orientation will cause handling problems and premature wear.
- 7Press out old bushingSecure the control arm in a hydraulic press or bench-mounted bushing press. Select the appropriate press adapter that supports the control arm around the bushing bore without contacting the bushing itself. Use a driver adapter slightly smaller than the bushing outer diameter. Press the old bushing straight out of the control arm bore. Clean the bore thoroughly with a wire brush and inspect for damage or cracks.
- 8Press in new bushingApply a thin coat of soapy water or bushing lubricant to the new bushing outer diameter and control arm bore (do not use petroleum-based lubricants). Align the new bushing with the bore in the correct orientation as marked earlier. Position the control arm in the press with proper support adapter. Use a press driver that contacts the bushing outer shell evenly. Press the bushing in slowly and evenly until it is fully seated and flush with the control arm housing.⚠Ensure bushing is pressed in straight. A cocked bushing will bind and must be removed and reinstalled.
- 9Install control arm to framePosition the control arm back into the suspension mounting location. Insert both front and rear control arm mounting bolts through the bushings and frame brackets. Thread the bolts by hand to ensure proper alignment. Do not fully tighten at this time - leave bolts loose enough that the bushing can still pivot.
- 10Connect ball joint to knuckleLift the control arm ball joint stud up into the steering knuckle bore. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to align the holes. Install the ball joint castle nut and tighten hand-tight initially. Ensure the ball joint stud is fully seated in the knuckle taper.
- 11Reconnect sway bar linkIf the sway bar link was disconnected, reconnect it to the control arm or strut. Hold the link shaft with a 6mm Allen key and tighten the nut to specification using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 12Torque ball joint nut and install cotter pinUsing a torque wrench and 14mm socket, torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. Align the castle nut slots with the ball joint stud hole by tightening further if needed (never loosen to align). Install a new cotter pin through the stud hole and bend the ends to secure.⚠Always use a new cotter pin. Never reuse old cotter pins as they may break.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 13Install wheel and lower vehicleInstall the wheel and hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 14Final torque control arm boltsWith the vehicle lowered fully to the ground and weight on all wheels, torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This must be done with the suspension at normal ride height to prevent bushing bind and premature failure. Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench.⚠️Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Torquing with suspension hanging will cause immediate bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification in the correct sequence
- Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent removal
- Check that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well area
- Lower vehicle completely and remove jack stands
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area and listen for clunks or unusual noises from the front suspension
- Perform a visual inspection under the vehicle to ensure ball joint and control arm are properly secured
- Check for proper steering response and ensure vehicle tracks straight
- Schedule a professional alignment within 50 miles of completing this repair, as suspension geometry has been altered
- Re-torque all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving