suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Rear
for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
Replace worn rear control arm bushings to restore suspension geometry and eliminate clunking or excessive play in the rear suspension.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
⚠Ball joint separators create sudden release of tension. Keep hands and face clear when separating joints.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets and wrenchesEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/installation tool setEssential
Cotter pin pliersEssential
Parts
- Rear control arm bushing kit (inner and outer bushings) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — 4.0mm diameter
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points on frame rails
- Remove rear wheels completely
- Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint cotter pin and nutLocate the lower ball joint where the control arm connects to the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin using cotter pin pliers. Remove the ball joint castle nut using a 17mm socket. Do not reuse the old cotter pin.
- 2Separate ball joint from knuckleUse a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the control arm ball joint from the rear knuckle. Strike the tool sharply with a hammer if needed. The joint will release suddenly, so maintain control of components.⚠Joint will separate suddenly. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- 3Support rear knuckle assemblyPlace a floor jack under the rear knuckle to support the weight of the knuckle, hub, and brake assembly. This prevents strain on the brake line and ABS sensor wire.
- 4Remove control arm mounting boltsLocate the front and rear control arm mounting bolts that attach to the subframe/chassis. Use a 19mm socket and wrench to remove both bolts. The front bolt connects to the chassis, and the rear bolt connects near the shock mount area. Support the control arm as you remove the final bolt.
- 5Remove control arm from vehicleLower the control arm and maneuver it out from the suspension area. Inspect the arm for cracks, bends, or other damage. If the arm itself is damaged, replacement of the entire arm is recommended rather than just the bushings.
- 6Remove old bushings from control armUsing a hydraulic press or dedicated bushing removal tool, press out the old bushings from the control arm. Note the orientation of each bushing before removal. The inner and outer bushings may be different sizes. Clean the bushing bores thoroughly with a wire brush to remove rust and debris.
- 7Install new bushingsApply a light coating of soapy water or bushing installation lubricant to the new bushings (do not use oil-based lubricants). Press the new bushings into the control arm using a hydraulic press or bushing installation tool. Ensure bushings are fully seated and oriented correctly with any voids or gaps positioned as specified by the bushing manufacturer.⚠Bushings must be pressed in straight to avoid damage. Ensure alignment before applying full press force.
- 8Install control arm to chassisPosition the control arm back into place and hand-thread both front and rear mounting bolts. Do not fully tighten at this time. Leave bolts loose enough that the bushings can rotate freely in their mounts.
- 9Reconnect ball joint to knuckleRaise the floor jack supporting the knuckle to align the ball joint stud with the knuckle bore. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the castle nut. Tighten the ball joint nut to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slots and ball joint stud, then bend the pin ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall wheels (finger tight only)Install the rear wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern just enough to hold the wheel firmly in place but do not torque yet. Repeat for opposite side if replacing both control arms.
- 11Lower vehicle to load suspensionCarefully lower the vehicle from jack stands until the tires are firmly on the ground and the full vehicle weight is on the suspension. The suspension must be at normal ride height with vehicle weight on the wheels before torquing control arm bolts.⚠This step is critical. Control arm bolts torqued with suspension unloaded will twist bushings and cause premature failure.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith the vehicle weight on the suspension, crawl under the vehicle and torque both control arm mounting bolts (front and rear) to specification using a torque wrench. Torque in the sequence: front bolt first, then rear bolt.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Raise vehicle and torque wheel lug nutsRaise the vehicle slightly so the wheel can spin freely. Torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Lower vehicle completely to the ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Check that new cotter pin is properly installed and bent
- Inspect for any tools or parts left in wheel well area
- Test drive vehicle at low speed to verify no unusual noises
Verification
- Bounce the rear of the vehicle to check for clunking or abnormal noises from the control arm area
- Verify steering wheel is centered and vehicle tracks straight during test drive
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment within 50 miles of completing this repair, as suspension geometry has been altered
- Re-check all torque specifications after 50-100 miles of driving