suspension

Control Arm Bushing - Rear

for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
13

Replace worn rear control arm bushings to restore suspension geometry and eliminate clunking or excessive play in the rear suspension.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
Ball joint separators create sudden release of tension. Keep hands and face clear when separating joints.

Tools required

Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets and wrenchesEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/installation tool setEssential
Cotter pin pliersEssential

Parts

  • Rear control arm bushing kit (inner and outer bushings) × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — 4.0mm diameter

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
  3. Raise rear of vehicle and support on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points on frame rails
  4. Remove rear wheels completely
  5. Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove ball joint cotter pin and nut
    Locate the lower ball joint where the control arm connects to the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin using cotter pin pliers. Remove the ball joint castle nut using a 17mm socket. Do not reuse the old cotter pin.
  2. 2
    Separate ball joint from knuckle
    Use a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the control arm ball joint from the rear knuckle. Strike the tool sharply with a hammer if needed. The joint will release suddenly, so maintain control of components.
    Joint will separate suddenly. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
  3. 3
    Support rear knuckle assembly
    Place a floor jack under the rear knuckle to support the weight of the knuckle, hub, and brake assembly. This prevents strain on the brake line and ABS sensor wire.
  4. 4
    Remove control arm mounting bolts
    Locate the front and rear control arm mounting bolts that attach to the subframe/chassis. Use a 19mm socket and wrench to remove both bolts. The front bolt connects to the chassis, and the rear bolt connects near the shock mount area. Support the control arm as you remove the final bolt.
  5. 5
    Remove control arm from vehicle
    Lower the control arm and maneuver it out from the suspension area. Inspect the arm for cracks, bends, or other damage. If the arm itself is damaged, replacement of the entire arm is recommended rather than just the bushings.
  6. 6
    Remove old bushings from control arm
    Using a hydraulic press or dedicated bushing removal tool, press out the old bushings from the control arm. Note the orientation of each bushing before removal. The inner and outer bushings may be different sizes. Clean the bushing bores thoroughly with a wire brush to remove rust and debris.
  7. 7
    Install new bushings
    Apply a light coating of soapy water or bushing installation lubricant to the new bushings (do not use oil-based lubricants). Press the new bushings into the control arm using a hydraulic press or bushing installation tool. Ensure bushings are fully seated and oriented correctly with any voids or gaps positioned as specified by the bushing manufacturer.
    Bushings must be pressed in straight to avoid damage. Ensure alignment before applying full press force.
  8. 8
    Install control arm to chassis
    Position the control arm back into place and hand-thread both front and rear mounting bolts. Do not fully tighten at this time. Leave bolts loose enough that the bushings can rotate freely in their mounts.
  9. 9
    Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
    Raise the floor jack supporting the knuckle to align the ball joint stud with the knuckle bore. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the castle nut. Tighten the ball joint nut to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut slots and ball joint stud, then bend the pin ends to secure.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reinstall wheels (finger tight only)
    Install the rear wheel and thread lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern just enough to hold the wheel firmly in place but do not torque yet. Repeat for opposite side if replacing both control arms.
  11. 11
    Lower vehicle to load suspension
    Carefully lower the vehicle from jack stands until the tires are firmly on the ground and the full vehicle weight is on the suspension. The suspension must be at normal ride height with vehicle weight on the wheels before torquing control arm bolts.
    This step is critical. Control arm bolts torqued with suspension unloaded will twist bushings and cause premature failure.
  12. 12
    Torque control arm mounting bolts
    With the vehicle weight on the suspension, crawl under the vehicle and torque both control arm mounting bolts (front and rear) to specification using a torque wrench. Torque in the sequence: front bolt first, then rear bolt.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Raise vehicle and torque wheel lug nuts
    Raise the vehicle slightly so the wheel can spin freely. Torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Lower vehicle completely to the ground.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification
  2. Check that new cotter pin is properly installed and bent
  3. Inspect for any tools or parts left in wheel well area
  4. Test drive vehicle at low speed to verify no unusual noises

Verification

  • Bounce the rear of the vehicle to check for clunking or abnormal noises from the control arm area
  • Verify steering wheel is centered and vehicle tracks straight during test drive
  • Schedule a professional wheel alignment within 50 miles of completing this repair, as suspension geometry has been altered
  • Re-check all torque specifications after 50-100 miles of driving

More procedures for this vehicle

⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2012 Toyota Camry repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Toyota Camry — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 50 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →