This procedure covers the removal and installation of both front CV axles on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with the 2.5L I4 engine, including proper torque specifications and alignment.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front driver side CV axle assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Front passenger side CV axle assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Axle nut (32mm) × 2 — 90179-50005 or equivalent
• Cotter pin (lower ball joint) × 2 — Replace if equipped
• Axle seal grease × 1 — Use Toyota-approved CV grease

Fluids

• Toyota WS ATF — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen (but do not remove) front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. With vehicle still on ground and brake pedal depressed, use breaker bar and 32mm socket to loosen both front axle nuts (do not remove yet)
5. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at proper jacking points
6. Remove both front wheels completely
7. Position drain pan under transaxle area to catch transmission fluid

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove axle nut and prepare hub
   With vehicle elevated, completely remove the 32mm axle nut that was previously loosened. Remove and discard the nut as it cannot be reused. If equipped with a cotter pin or stake, remove it first using needle nose pliers or a chisel.
2. 2

   Disconnect lower ball joint
   Locate the lower ball joint connection at the bottom of the steering knuckle. Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) and use a 17mm socket to remove the ball joint castle nut. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the lower control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle. Take care not to damage the ball joint boot.
3. 3

   Separate axle from hub assembly
   With the lower ball joint disconnected, push the steering knuckle outward. Gently tap the end of the axle shaft with a dead blow hammer or brass hammer to break it free from the hub splines. If stubborn, use a proper hub puller. Do not strike the axle threads directly as this will damage them.
   ⚠Do not strike the threaded end of the axle directly. Use a brass drift or dead blow hammer and protect the threads.
4. 4

   Remove axle from transmission (driver side)
   For the driver side axle, position the drain pan directly under the axle-to-transmission connection point. Using a large pry bar positioned between the inner CV joint and transmission case, carefully pry the axle straight out. You will feel the circlip release with a snap. Pull the entire axle assembly out of the transmission. Transmission fluid will drain out.
   ⚠Pry only against the CV joint housing, not the axle shaft itself. Avoid damaging the transmission seal during removal.
5. 5

   Remove axle from transmission (passenger side)
   For the passenger side axle, position the drain pan under the connection point. Using the same prying technique, release the circlip and pull the axle assembly straight out from the intermediate shaft/transmission. Transmission fluid will drain. Remove the complete axle assembly from the vehicle.
6. 6

   Inspect and clean sealing surfaces
   Inspect the transmission seal for damage. Clean the seal area and hub splines with a wire brush, removing any old grease, dirt, or corrosion. Check that the new axle circlips are properly seated in their grooves and not damaged. Verify the new axles have fresh grease in the boots and no tears or damage.
7. 7

   Install new axle into transmission
   Apply a thin coat of transmission fluid or approved CV grease to the seal contact area of the new axle. Align the splines and insert the inner CV joint straight into the transmission opening. Push firmly until you hear and feel the circlip snap into place. Give the axle a firm pull outward to verify the circlip is fully engaged and the axle will not pull out.
   ℹ️The circlip must fully engage with an audible click. Test by pulling outward on the axle - it should not come out.
8. 8

   Install axle into hub assembly
   Guide the outer CV joint splines into the wheel hub. You may need to rotate the axle slightly to align the splines. Push the axle through until it is fully seated. The threaded end should protrude through the hub enough to install the axle nut.
9. 9

   Reconnect lower ball joint
   Push the steering knuckle back into position and insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification. The nut must align with the cotter pin hole - if not aligned at proper torque, tighten further (never loosen). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.
   ⚠Never loosen the ball joint nut to align the cotter pin hole. Only tighten further if needed for alignment.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install new axle nut (hand tight only)
    Thread a new 32mm axle nut onto the axle shaft by hand. Tighten it hand-tight only at this stage. Do NOT torque the axle nut while the vehicle is elevated - this must be done with the vehicle on the ground.
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1 through 10 for the opposite side CV axle if not already completed. Ensure both axles are fully seated, both ball joints are reconnected, and both new axle nuts are hand-tight.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Reinstall both front wheels and thread the lug nuts on by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to snug, but do not torque yet. Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack stands.
13. 13

    Torque wheel lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Make at least two complete passes to ensure even torque distribution.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Torque axle nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground and parking brake applied (or brake pedal depressed by an assistant), use a torque wrench and 32mm socket to torque both axle nuts to the specified 250 Nm. After torquing, stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove using a punch and hammer, or install a new cotter pin if the design uses one.
    ⚠This is a critical torque specification. The axle nut MUST be torqued with the vehicle on the ground and brakes applied to prevent hub/bearing damage.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Check and refill transmission fluid
    Check the transmission fluid level using the dipstick or fill plug (depending on model year). Add Toyota WS ATF as needed to bring the level back to the full mark. Typically 0.5-1 quart will be needed to replace what was lost during axle removal. Warm the engine and recheck fluid level.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification, especially the critical axle nuts and ball joint nuts
2. Verify both axle nuts are properly staked or secured with new cotter pins
3. Double-check that transmission fluid level is correct after the vehicle has been warmed up
4. Inspect CV boots for any tears or damage that may have occurred during installation

Verification

• Start the engine and shift through all transmission gears to verify proper engagement
• Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area, making gentle turns in both directions
• Listen for any clicking, popping, or grinding noises from the CV joints during acceleration and turning
• Verify no transmission fluid leaks are present at the axle seals after test drive
• Re-check axle nut torque after test drive to ensure it has not loosened
• Check for any vibration during acceleration which could indicate improper installation or defective parts

More procedures for this vehicle