suspension
Strut Assembly - Rear
for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
13
Steps
15
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear strut assemblies on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with the 2.5L I4 engine, including disconnection from the knuckle and upper mounting points.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL JOB: Improperly installed struts can cause loss of vehicle control, resulting in serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, seek professional service.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Strut assemblies contain compressed springs under high tension. Only use fully assembled strut units unless you have professional spring compressor equipment and training.
⚠All torque specifications marked [CRITICAL] must be followed exactly. Improper torque can cause component failure and loss of vehicle control.
⚠Suspension work affects wheel alignment. A professional alignment is strongly recommended after this repair.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
14mm socket (strut tower nuts)Essential
17mm socket (strut-to-knuckle bolts)Essential
14mm wrench (sway bar link)Essential
Ratchet and extension setEssential
Breaker bar
Pry bar or strut spreader tool
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Rear strut assembly (left) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Rear strut assembly (right) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- If replacing only one strut, mark left/right before removal to ensure correct installation
- Apply penetrating oil to strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts if visible corrosion is present, allow 15 minutes to penetrate
Procedure
- 1Raise and support vehicleRaise the rear of the vehicle using a floor jack at the rear jacking point. Once raised, place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides. Lower vehicle onto jack stands. Shake vehicle to verify stability before proceeding. Keep floor jack available but not supporting vehicle weight.
- 2Remove rear wheelsRemove the lug nuts completely and remove both rear wheels. Set wheels aside in a safe location where they will not roll.
- 3Access upper strut mount (interior)Open the trunk. Fold down the rear seat backs if needed for access. Locate the plastic trim covers over the upper strut mounts on both sides of the trunk (near the rear speaker grilles). Remove the trim covers by gently prying or pulling (they typically use plastic clips). You should now see three 14mm nuts on top of each strut tower.
- 4Support lower suspensionPosition the floor jack under the rear knuckle/lower control arm on the side you are working on. Raise jack just enough to take slight tension off the strut (do not lift the vehicle). This prevents the suspension from dropping when the strut is disconnected.⚠The jack must support the knuckle assembly throughout strut removal to prevent sudden dropping of suspension components and possible damage to brake lines or ABS wiring.
- 5Disconnect sway bar link (if necessary)If the sway bar link interferes with strut removal access, disconnect it from the strut assembly. Use a 14mm wrench to hold the ball stud while removing the upper nut with a socket. The link can remain attached to the sway bar.ℹ️Some technicians can remove the strut without disconnecting the sway bar link. Assess clearance on your specific vehicle before disconnecting.
- 6Remove strut-to-knuckle boltsLocate the two 17mm bolts that attach the strut to the rear knuckle. These are horizontal bolts passing through the strut bracket and knuckle. Remove both bolts completely. If the strut does not separate from the knuckle easily, use a pry bar or strut spreader tool to gently open the knuckle slot. Do not force or damage the knuckle.⚠The knuckle slot is machined to a specific tolerance. Excessive prying force can deform the knuckle and affect wheel alignment or cause component failure.
- 7Remove upper strut tower nutsFrom inside the trunk, remove the three 14mm nuts from the top of the strut tower. Hold the strut from below to prevent it from falling when the last nut is removed.⚠The strut assembly is heavy (approximately 15-20 lbs). Support it from below before removing the final upper nut to prevent it from falling and causing injury or damage.
- 8Remove strut assemblyCarefully lower and guide the strut assembly out from the wheel well. Maneuver it past the brake components and suspension arms. Set the old strut aside in a safe location.
- 9Prepare new strut assemblyUnpack the new strut assembly. Verify it is the correct side (left or right) and matches the old assembly. Inspect the upper mount for proper orientation. If the strut came with new upper nuts, have them ready for installation.⚠️If you are reusing old springs or disassembling struts, a professional spring compressor is required. Compressed springs can cause severe injury or death if released improperly. This procedure assumes you are installing complete pre-assembled strut units.
- 10Install new strut assemblyGuide the new strut assembly into position in the wheel well. First, insert the upper mounting studs through the holes in the strut tower from below. Align the strut bracket with the knuckle opening. You may need to use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle slightly for proper alignment.
- 11Install upper strut tower nutsFrom inside the trunk, hand-thread all three 14mm nuts onto the upper mounting studs. Tighten the nuts in a star pattern to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) using a torque wrench.⚠CRITICAL TORQUE SPECIFICATION: Upper strut nuts must be torqued to exactly 50 Nm (37 lb-ft). Over-torquing can damage the mount; under-torquing can allow the strut to separate.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 12Install strut-to-knuckle boltsAlign the strut bracket with the knuckle. If needed, use slight jack pressure to align the holes. Insert both 17mm bolts and hand-thread the nuts. Torque both bolts to 122 Nm (90 lb-ft).⚠CRITICAL TORQUE SPECIFICATION: Strut-to-knuckle bolts must be torqued to exactly 122 Nm (90 lb-ft). These bolts are critical to suspension integrity and vehicle safety.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
- 13Reconnect sway bar link (if disconnected)If you disconnected the sway bar link in step 5, reconnect it now. Install the nut and torque to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) while holding the ball stud with an Allen key to prevent rotation.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 14Repeat for opposite sideLower the jack from under the knuckle. Reposition it under the opposite side knuckle and repeat steps 4 through 13 for the other rear strut assembly.
- 15Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleReinstall both rear wheels, hand-threading all lug nuts. Lower vehicle to the ground and remove jack stands. With vehicle weight on wheels, torque lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.⚠CRITICAL TORQUE SPECIFICATION: Lug nuts must be torqued to exactly 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern to ensure even wheel seating and prevent loosening.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall trunk trim covers over the upper strut mounts
- Return rear seat backs to normal position if they were folded down
- Remove wheel chocks from front wheels
Verification
- Verify all three upper strut nuts are tight on both sides by checking from trunk
- Verify strut-to-knuckle bolts are properly torqued on both sides
- Bounce each rear corner of the vehicle several times and verify the struts dampen movement smoothly without noise
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area and verify normal handling, no unusual noises, and proper damping over bumps
- IMPORTANT: Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible. Suspension work can alter alignment settings, causing tire wear and handling issues