This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both inner and outer tie rod ends on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with a 2.5L I4 engine, including proper torque specifications and alignment preparation.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end - driver side × 1 — 45046-09730 or equivalent
• Outer tie rod end - passenger side × 1 — 45047-09730 or equivalent
• Inner tie rod end - driver side × 1 — 45503-09590 or equivalent
• Inner tie rod end - passenger side × 1 — 45504-09590 or equivalent
• Cotter pins (2mm x 20mm) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Tie rod boot kit (if not included) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands positioned on frame rails
4. Remove both front wheels completely
5. Apply penetrating oil to tie rod threads, castle nuts, and lock nuts if components appear corroded
6. Spray brake cleaner or degreaser on steering components to improve visibility and marking

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod positions for alignment reference
   Using a grease pencil or paint marker, mark the position of the outer tie rod end where it threads onto the inner tie rod. Make a line across both the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod threads. Also count and record the number of exposed threads on the inner tie rod past the lock nut. Take photos for reference. This helps maintain approximate alignment when installing new parts.
2. 2

   Remove outer tie rod end cotter pins
   Locate the castle nut securing each outer tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from each side using pliers. Discard old cotter pins. Do not reuse cotter pins.
3. 3

   Loosen outer tie rod castle nuts
   Using a 19mm socket, loosen but do not fully remove the castle nuts on both outer tie rod ends. Leave the nuts threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and catch the tie rod when it separates from the knuckle.
4. 4

   Separate outer tie rod ends from knuckles
   Insert a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork between the tie rod ball joint and the steering knuckle. Strike the tool firmly with a hammer to break the taper joint free. Alternatively, use a ball joint separator tool. Once separated, fully remove the castle nut. Repeat for both sides. The tie rod end will now swing free from the knuckle.
   ⚠Pickle fork tools will damage the tie rod boot - acceptable if replacing tie rod ends, but use ball joint puller if attempting to preserve components
5. 5

   Remove tie rod lock nuts
   Using a 22mm wrench, loosen and remove the lock nut on each outer tie rod where it threads onto the inner tie rod. The lock nut should unthread toward the outer tie rod end. Keep these lock nuts if reusable or replace with new ones.
6. 6

   Remove outer tie rod ends
   Unthread the outer tie rod ends from the inner tie rods by turning counterclockwise. Count the number of turns required for complete removal on each side and record this information. This provides a secondary alignment reference when installing new parts.
7. 7

   Access and remove inner tie rod boots
   Remove the boot clamps securing the steering rack boots to the inner tie rods. Slide the boots toward the steering rack to expose the inner tie rod connection point and jam nut. Wipe away old grease to clearly see the flat surfaces on the inner tie rod.
8. 8

   Remove inner tie rods
   Use an adjustable wrench or dedicated inner tie rod tool to grip the flats on the inner tie rod body (not the threads). While holding the steering rack steady, turn the inner tie rod counterclockwise to unthread it from the rack. The inner tie rod may be very tight - use a cheater pipe if necessary. Remove inner tie rods from both sides.
   ⚠Do not damage the steering rack threads. Clean threads with a wire brush before installing new inner tie rods
9. 9

   Install new inner tie rods
   Clean the steering rack threads with a wire brush. Thread new inner tie rods into the steering rack by hand, turning clockwise. Once hand-tight, use the inner tie rod tool to tighten securely. Toyota does not publish a specific torque value for inner tie rods, but they should be tightened firmly (typically 60-70 Nm or 44-52 lb-ft based on service practice). Ensure inner tie rods are fully seated against the rack.
10. 10

    Install steering rack boots
    Pack new boots with appropriate steering grease if not pre-greased. Slide boots over inner tie rods and position correctly on the steering rack and inner tie rod grooves. Install new boot clamps and tighten securely. Ensure boots are not twisted and are properly seated to prevent contamination.
11. 11

    Install outer tie rod ends
    Thread new outer tie rod ends onto the inner tie rod ends, turning clockwise. Use your alignment reference marks and turn counts from removal to position the outer tie rod ends approximately in the same location as the old parts. Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod but do not tighten it yet - it should rest against the outer tie rod body.
12. 12

    Install outer tie rod ends to knuckles
    Insert the outer tie rod end ball studs into the steering knuckle tapers on both sides. Install the castle nuts and tighten to specification. The cotter pin hole in the ball stud must align with a castle nut slot. If necessary, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen) to achieve alignment with the nearest castle slot.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install new cotter pins
    Insert new cotter pins through the castle nut slots and ball stud holes on both sides. Bend the cotter pin legs in opposite directions to secure. The cotter pin should be tight and prevent the castle nut from loosening.
14. 14

    Preliminary tighten tie rod lock nuts
    Hand-tighten the tie rod lock nuts against the outer tie rod ends on both sides. Do NOT torque these to final specification yet - they will be torqued after alignment is complete. The lock nuts should be snug enough to hold adjustment but can be loosened by the alignment technician.
    ℹ️Lock nuts are torqued to final specification AFTER professional alignment - communicate this to alignment shop
15. 15

    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Install both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just touch the ground. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all cotter pins are properly installed and bent to prevent castle nut rotation
2. Verify steering rack boots are properly seated and clamped to prevent dirt and water intrusion
3. Double-check that all tie rod connections are secure before test driving

Verification

• Turn steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify smooth operation with no binding or unusual noises
• Verify steering wheel returns to center when released after turning
• Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to check for proper steering response - steering may pull to one side due to misalignment
• Schedule professional wheel alignment immediately - vehicle is not safe for extended driving without proper alignment
• After alignment is complete, have technician torque tie rod lock nuts to 68.0 Nm (50.0 lb-ft) specification
• Recheck all torque specifications after alignment service is performed

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