suspension
Upper Control Arm - Front
for 2012 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front upper control arm on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry with 2.5L I4 engine, including ball joint separation and proper torque sequence.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands before working underneath. Never rely solely on a floor jack.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Final torque must be performed after lowering vehicle.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can slip under pressure. Keep hands and face clear of tool when applying force.
ℹ️Inspect ball joint boot and control arm bushings for wear or damage during removal. Replace if compromised.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (50-200 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
19mm socketEssential
17mm socketEssential
14mm socketEssential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Breaker bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pry bar
Parts
- Upper control arm assembly × 1 — 48068-06060 (Left) or 48069-06060 (Right)
- Upper ball joint castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn before raising vehicle
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
- Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes if vehicle has corrosion or high mileage
Procedure
- 1Access upper control arm mounting areaOpen the hood and locate the upper control arm mounting points at the top of the strut tower. The control arm connects to the strut tower with two bolts and to the steering knuckle via a ball joint at the bottom.
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pinLocate the castle nut securing the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Discard the old cotter pin as it should not be reused.
- 3Loosen ball joint castle nutUsing a 19mm socket, loosen the ball joint castle nut but do not remove it completely yet. Leave the nut threaded on 2-3 turns to protect the ball joint stud threads during separation.ℹ️Leaving the nut partially threaded prevents the ball joint from violently separating and causing damage or injury.
- 4Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool between the upper control arm and steering knuckle. Apply steady pressure to separate the ball joint taper from the knuckle bore. Once the joint breaks free, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.⚠Tool may release suddenly when joint separates. Maintain firm grip and keep face clear of the tool path.
- 5Remove control arm mounting boltsFrom the engine bay, locate the two bolts securing the upper control arm to the strut tower mounting bracket. Using a 17mm socket, remove both bolts completely. Support the control arm while removing the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
- 6Remove upper control armCarefully extract the upper control arm from the mounting bracket and through the suspension assembly. Note the orientation and positioning of any alignment shims or washers present at the mounting points for reinstallation reference.ℹ️Some vehicles may have alignment shims installed at the factory. Keep these with the removed arm and transfer to new arm if alignment specifications require.
- 7Inspect and clean mounting surfacesThoroughly clean the strut tower mounting bracket and steering knuckle ball joint bore using a wire brush. Remove all rust, debris, and old thread locker. Inspect the knuckle bore for damage or elongation. Check mounting bolt threads in the strut tower for damage.
- 8Install new upper control armPosition the new upper control arm into the strut tower mounting bracket, ensuring proper orientation matches the removed arm. Install both mounting bolts by hand first to verify thread engagement. Do not fully tighten yet as these require final torque with vehicle weight on wheels.
- 9Connect ball joint to knuckleLift the control arm and align the ball joint stud with the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the stud fully into the knuckle bore. Install the new castle nut and thread it on by hand until it seats against the knuckle.
- 10Torque ball joint nut and install cotter pinUsing a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. If the castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten the nut further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.⚠Never loosen castle nut to align cotter pin hole. Only tighten to next alignment position.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 11Snug control arm mounting boltsUsing a 17mm socket, snug the two upper control arm mounting bolts to eliminate any movement in the bushings. Do not torque to final specification yet. These bolts must be torqued with full vehicle weight on the suspension.
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleInstall the wheel and tire assembly. Thread lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten in a star pattern using a torque wrench to specification. Carefully lower the vehicle until full weight is on the wheels but vehicle is still accessible for final torque operations.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque control arm boltsWith vehicle weight fully on the suspension and wheels on the ground, access the control arm mounting bolts from the engine bay. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, torque both control arm mounting bolts to final specification. This ensures proper bushing preload and alignment.⚠Failure to torque control arm bolts with vehicle weight on wheels will cause premature bushing failure and poor handling.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification and no tools or parts are left in the work area
- Close hood and remove jack stands completely
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify no unusual noises or handling issues
Verification
- Bounce the front corner of the vehicle to verify no clunking or loose component noises from the upper control arm area
- Verify castle nut cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent backing out
- Check for proper wheel alignment by observing steering wheel centering and tire tracking on a straight road
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment within 50 miles of completion, as suspension geometry has been altered