Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry 2.5L I4 by removing the hub assembly, pressing out the old bearing, installing a new bearing, and reassembling the components.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — 90179-45059 or equivalent
• Cotter pin (if applicable) or stake-type nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Outer snap ring (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and apply parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
4. Loosen but do not remove the axle nut while vehicle is on ground (requires breaker bar)
5. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified points
6. Remove wheel completely
7. Have hydraulic press set up and ready with appropriate bearing adapters

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two brake caliper mounting bolts (typically 17mm) and hang the caliper from the strut spring using wire or a bungee cord - do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor by pulling it off the hub. If stuck, use penetrating oil and light tapping with a dead blow hammer.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the back of the steering knuckle. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the ABS sensor bolt and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle bore. Set aside to prevent damage.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove axle nut and disconnect tie rod
   Fully remove the previously loosened axle nut and set aside (it must be replaced with a new one). Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the outer tie rod end. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Do not damage the ball joint boot.
   ℹ️The axle nut is single-use and must be replaced during reassembly.
4. 4

   Separate lower ball joint
   Remove the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle (typically 18mm). Use a pry bar if necessary to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Support the lower control arm to prevent it from dropping suddenly.
5. 5

   Remove hub bolts and knuckle assembly
   Remove the four hub bolts from the back side of the steering knuckle that secure the hub assembly. These bolts pass through from behind the knuckle. Once removed, carefully pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly off the axle shaft. You may need to tap the axle shaft with a soft mallet or use a slide hammer to free it from the hub. Remove the entire knuckle/hub assembly from the vehicle.
   ⚠Do not allow the axle shaft to hang unsupported or it may damage the inner CV joint. Support it with wire or a stand.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove hub from knuckle
   Secure the steering knuckle assembly in a vise (protect knuckle surfaces with soft jaws). Using the hydraulic press with appropriate adapters, press the hub out of the bearing from the front side. Support the knuckle properly and ensure the press adapter contacts only the hub, not the inner bearing race. The hub should press out cleanly, leaving the bearing inner race, outer race, and seals in the knuckle.
   ⚠Ensure press adapter contacts only the hub shaft, not the bearing inner race, to avoid damaging the knuckle bore.
7. 7

   Remove bearing snap ring and seals
   Use snap ring pliers to remove the outer snap ring that retains the bearing in the knuckle bore. Remove the inner and outer bearing seals and discard them. If the bearing inner race remained on the hub shaft, use a bearing separator and press to remove it.
8. 8

   Press out old bearing
   Position the knuckle in the press with proper support underneath (use a bearing adapter or tube that contacts the outer edge of the knuckle, not the bearing outer race). Press the bearing out from the backside using an adapter that contacts the outer race evenly. Apply steady, even pressure until the bearing is fully removed from the knuckle bore.
   ⚠Support the knuckle properly to avoid cracking or deformation. The press adapter must contact the bearing outer race, not the knuckle bore.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect knuckle bore
   Thoroughly clean the knuckle bearing bore with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Inspect the bore for any damage, cracks, scoring, or corrosion. Check that the snap ring groove is clean and undamaged. Verify the bore diameter is within specification (no scoring or out-of-round condition).
   ℹ️If the knuckle bore is damaged, the entire steering knuckle must be replaced. Do not attempt to install a bearing in a damaged bore.
10. 10

    Press in new bearing
    Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to the knuckle bore (not excessive). Position the new bearing squarely in the bore with the manufacturer markings facing outward. Using the hydraulic press with an adapter that contacts ONLY the outer race of the bearing, press the bearing in evenly until it seats against the shoulder in the knuckle bore. Press slowly and ensure the bearing remains square throughout the process.
    ⚠️Press adapter must contact only the bearing outer race. Pressing on the inner race will destroy the bearing immediately.
11. 11

    Install snap ring and seals
    Install the outer snap ring into the groove to retain the bearing. Ensure it is fully seated in the groove around its entire circumference. Install new bearing seals on both sides of the bearing, pressing them in squarely until seated. Apply a light coat of grease to the seal lips.
12. 12

    Press hub into bearing
    Position the knuckle assembly with the front side up. Align the hub squarely with the bearing inner race. Using the hydraulic press with an adapter that contacts only the inner race of the bearing (or the hub center), press the hub into the bearing with steady, even pressure. The hub should seat fully against the bearing inner race. Check for smooth rotation after pressing.
    ⚠The hub must be pressed in squarely to avoid damaging the bearing. Ensure the press adapter contacts the inner race or hub center, never the outer race or seal.
13. 13

    Reinstall knuckle assembly
    Slide the knuckle and hub assembly back onto the axle shaft, ensuring the splines align properly. Position the assembly so the hub bolt holes align with the knuckle. Install the four hub bolts from the back side and torque them evenly in a crossing pattern to specification. Reconnect the lower ball joint to the knuckle and install the two bolts, torquing to specification.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Reconnect tie rod and ABS sensor
    Install the outer tie rod end into the steering knuckle and install the castle nut, torquing to specification (typically 49 Nm). Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut. Clean the ABS sensor and knuckle bore with brake cleaner, apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the sensor body (not the tip), and install the sensor. Torque the ABS sensor bolt to specification. Reconnect the electrical connector.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Install rotor, caliper, and axle nut
    Reinstall the brake rotor onto the hub. Reinstall the brake caliper and torque the mounting bolts to specification (typically 90 Nm). Install a NEW axle nut onto the axle shaft and torque to 250 Nm. If using a stake-type nut, stake the nut into the axle shaft groove using a chisel and hammer. If using a castle nut design, install a new cotter pin. Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
    ⚠A new axle nut must be used. Reusing the old nut can result in the nut loosening and catastrophic wheel separation.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
16. 16

    Lower vehicle and final torque
    Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but most weight is still on the jack stands. Torque the wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. With the vehicle on the ground, verify the axle nut torque is still at 250 Nm (re-torque if necessary before staking or pinning).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification, particularly the axle nut and hub bolts
2. Verify the new axle nut is properly staked or a new cotter pin is installed
3. Check that the ABS sensor connector is fully seated and the sensor is secure
4. Verify brake caliper operation and proper brake pedal feel before driving

Verification

• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no grinding, humming, or abnormal noises from the wheel bearing area
• Check for proper wheel rotation with no binding or roughness when spinning the wheel by hand
• Verify ABS system functions properly with no warning lights (may need to drive above 12 mph to clear initial warning)
• Inspect for any leaking grease from bearing seals
• Re-check axle nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving
• Verify wheel alignment is within specification as the procedure may have affected toe settings

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