steering
Pitman Arm
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
1.2 h
Tools
11
Steps
11
This procedure addresses a common misconception: the 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla uses rack-and-pinion steering and does NOT have a pitman arm, which is only found on recirculating ball steering systems.
Warnings
⚠️IMPORTANT: The 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla does NOT have a pitman arm. It uses electric power rack-and-pinion steering. This procedure addresses tie rod replacement, which may be what was intended.
⚠Loosening tie rod components will affect wheel alignment. Professional alignment is required after this repair.
⚠Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
ℹ️If steering components are severely corroded, apply penetrating oil 24 hours before beginning work.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (2)Essential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Steering rack puller or large pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Breaker barEssential
Parts
- Inner tie rod end (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Outer tie rod end (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Tie rod end castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Mark tie rod position with paint or count threads before removal if reusing outer tie rod for alignment reference
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands at frame lift points
- Remove front wheels completely
Procedure
- 1Access steering componentsTurn steering wheel to position the tie rod end you're working on for easiest access. For driver side, turn wheel full right; for passenger side, turn wheel full left. Ensure ignition is off but steering is unlocked.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end cotter pinLocate the castle nut on the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers. Discard the old cotter pin as it should not be reused.
- 3Loosen tie rod end castle nutUsing a 19mm socket, loosen the tie rod end castle nut but do not remove it completely. Leave it threaded on by 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent the tie rod from falling when separated.⚠Do not fully remove the nut before separating the taper, as the tie rod can drop suddenly and damage threads.
- 4Separate tie rod end from knuckleUsing a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork, break the tapered connection between the tie rod end and steering knuckle. Insert tool between knuckle and tie rod end ball joint, then strike with hammer or tighten tool to pop the taper loose. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely.⚠Pickle forks will damage the tie rod end boot. Use only if replacing the tie rod end.
- 5Remove outer tie rod endHold the inner tie rod with a wrench on the flat section to prevent it from rotating. Turn the outer tie rod end counterclockwise to unscrew it from the inner tie rod. Count the number of full turns or note the position if you marked it during preparation. This helps maintain approximate alignment.
- 6Inspect inner tie rod conditionWith outer tie rod removed, inspect the inner tie rod for excessive play, torn boots, or damage. Grasp the inner tie rod and attempt to move it up/down and in/out. Any play indicates wear requiring inner tie rod replacement. Check that the steering rack boot is intact and not leaking grease.
- 7Install new outer tie rod endThread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise, using the same number of turns you counted during removal. Do not fully tighten yet. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the threads if desired, but keep away from the taper.
- 8Connect tie rod end to knuckleClean the tapered hole in the steering knuckle with a wire brush. Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle. Install the new castle nut and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. The nut must align with the cotter pin hole; if needed, tighten further (never loosen) to align the castle nut slots with the hole.Torque specTie Rod Nut52 Nm (38 lb-ft)
- 9Install new cotter pinInsert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod end stud. Bend the legs of the cotter pin over in opposite directions to secure it. Ensure the cotter pin is fully seated and cannot work loose.
- 10Repeat for opposite side if neededIf replacing both tie rod ends, repeat steps 1-9 for the opposite side of the vehicle. Both tie rod ends should be replaced as a pair if one is worn.
- 11Reinstall wheelsMount the front wheels back onto the hubs. Install lug nuts by hand first, then tighten in a star pattern with a torque wrench to specification. Lower the vehicle to the ground before final torquing.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- After lowering vehicle to ground, perform final torque on wheel lug nuts in star pattern
- Test steering wheel center position - it should be centered when driving straight
- Schedule professional wheel alignment immediately, as steering geometry has been altered
Verification
- Start engine and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to verify no binding or unusual noises
- Test drive at low speed in safe area to verify steering response
- Check that steering wheel returns to center after turns
- Have wheel alignment performed and verified by professional shop with alignment rack
- Re-check tie rod end castle nut torque after 50-100 miles of driving