This procedure covers the removal and replacement of a front brake caliper on a 2015 Kia Forte with 1.8L I4 engine, including brake fluid line disconnection, caliper removal, installation, bleeding, and system verification.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Two washers per banjo bolt
• Brake fluid DOT 4 × 1 — As needed for bleeding

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake.
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on the ground.
3. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands placed at manufacturer-recommended lift points.
4. Remove front wheel completely.
5. Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and remove cap. Place clean rags around reservoir to catch any overflow.
6. Inspect brake rotor and pads. If replacing caliper due to seized operation, inspect rotor for heat damage and pads for uneven wear.
7. Have drain pan ready to catch brake fluid spillage (approximately 4-6 oz will drain from caliper and line).

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Locate the brake hose banjo bolt on the back of the caliper. Clean the area around the banjo bolt connection with brake cleaner. Using a 10mm flare nut wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt while holding the brake hose to prevent twisting. Allow brake fluid to drain into the drain pan. Remove and discard the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Immediately plug the brake hose opening with a rubber cap or clean rag to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will begin draining immediately when the banjo bolt is loosened. Position drain pan carefully and be prepared for fluid flow.
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper mounting bolts (also called slide pins or guide pins) on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are typically 17mm bolts that secure the caliper to the bracket. Using a 17mm socket and ratchet, remove both caliper bolts completely. Note: On some Forte models, these bolts have a socket head on the backside—access from behind the caliper bracket if necessary.
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Carefully lift the caliper assembly away from the brake rotor and bracket. The caliper should slide straight off. If the brake pads are stuck to the caliper pistons, gently wiggle the caliper while pulling away from the rotor. Once free, support the caliper or remove it completely. Inspect the brake pads—if they are in good condition and you plan to reuse them, note their orientation for reinstallation.
   ⚠The caliper may be heavy and awkward. Support it carefully to avoid dropping it or damaging the brake hose connection point.
4. 4

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and verify it matches the old caliper (compare mounting points, bleeder screw location, and banjo bolt position). If the new caliper comes with protective caps on the banjo bolt port, remove them. Verify the caliper pistons are fully retracted. If not, carefully compress them using a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool, being careful not to damage the piston dust boots. Apply a thin film of fresh brake fluid to the caliper piston seals if visible.
   ℹ️Some replacement calipers come pre-loaded with brake pads and hardware. Verify what is included with your replacement part.
5. 5

   Clean caliper bracket and mounting surfaces
   With the old caliper removed, inspect the caliper bracket (still mounted to the steering knuckle) for corrosion, wear, or damage. Use a wire brush to clean the caliper slide pin bores and pad contact surfaces on the bracket. Clean the mounting bolt holes and threads. If removing the bracket completely, use a 19mm socket to remove the two bracket bolts. Inspect brake rotor condition while bracket is accessible.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   If brake pads were removed, install them into the caliper bracket in their correct orientation (inner and outer pads are often different). Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to pad slide points on the bracket if applicable. Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and pads, aligning the mounting bolt holes with the bracket. Ensure the bleeder screw is positioned at the top of the caliper for proper bleeding.
   ⚠Ensure no brake fluid or grease contacts the brake rotor or pad friction surfaces. Contamination will severely compromise braking performance.
7. 7

   Install and torque caliper mounting bolts
   Insert both caliper mounting bolts and hand-thread them to ensure proper engagement. If the bolts have rubber bushings or slide pin boots, ensure they are properly seated. Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 97.0 Nm (71 lb-ft) in a crossing pattern. Verify the caliper moves smoothly on the slide pins by gently pushing it side to side.
8. 8

   Connect brake hose with new crush washers
   Install one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo bolt, then insert the banjo bolt through the brake hose banjo fitting. Install the second NEW copper crush washer on the other side of the fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper body by hand, ensuring the brake hose is not twisted. Using a 10mm wrench and torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 39.0 Nm (29 lb-ft). Double-check that the brake hose routing does not contact any suspension components or the wheel during full steering travel.
   ⚠️CRITICAL: Always use NEW copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure. Verify washers are in place on both sides of the banjo fitting before tightening.
9. 9

   Bleed brake caliper
   Locate the bleeder screw on top of the caliper (typically 8mm or 10mm). Attach a clear bleeding hose to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a container partially filled with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-5 times and hold pressure. While pressure is held, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Allow fluid and air to escape until flow stops, then close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the clear hose and only clean fluid flows. Torque the bleeder screw to 10.0 Nm (7 lb-ft) when complete.
   ⚠️Monitor the brake fluid reservoir constantly during bleeding. Never allow it to run empty or air will enter the master cylinder, requiring complete system bleeding.
   ⚠Do not overtighten the bleeder screw—it is made of soft metal and will strip easily. Use a torque wrench for final tightening.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Check for leaks and top off brake fluid
    With the bleeder screw closed and properly torqued, have an assistant apply firm pressure to the brake pedal and hold for 30 seconds. Inspect the banjo bolt connection, bleeder screw, and all caliper body seams for any signs of brake fluid leakage. If any leaks are found, do not operate the vehicle—address the leak immediately. If no leaks are present, release brake pedal pressure and top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Reinstall the reservoir cap.
    ⚠️Any brake fluid leak, no matter how small, indicates a serious safety hazard. Do not drive the vehicle until all leaks are corrected.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Position the wheel onto the hub, ensuring it seats properly against the hub face. Install all lug nuts by hand and tighten in a star pattern using the lug wrench. Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack to unload the jack stands, then remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Using a torque wrench and appropriate socket, torque the wheel lug nuts to 129.0 Nm (95 lb-ft) in a star pattern to ensure even clamping force.

Reassembly

1. Verify brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid and cap is securely installed.
2. Double-check all fasteners are properly torqued: caliper mounting bolts (97 Nm), banjo bolt (39 Nm), bleeder screw (10 Nm), and wheel lug nuts (129 Nm).
3. If both front calipers were replaced, repeat the bleeding procedure on the opposite side following the same steps.
4. Clean any spilled brake fluid from wheels, suspension components, and painted surfaces immediately with water.

Verification

• Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal multiple times until it becomes firm. The pedal should not sink to the floor. If the pedal remains soft, additional bleeding is required.
• Start the engine and pump the brake pedal again. The pedal should feel firm and not slowly sink with constant pressure. If it sinks, there is air in the system or a leak.
• Perform a stationary brake test: with the engine running, apply firm brake pressure and verify the pedal does not continue to sink.
• Visually inspect the caliper, banjo bolt, and bleeder screw one final time for any signs of fluid leakage.
• Test drive the vehicle in a safe area at low speed (under 10 mph) and verify the brakes respond normally with good pedal feel and no pulling to one side.
• After the initial test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify the brake fluid reservoir level has not dropped.
• Perform several moderate stops from 30 mph to properly bed the new caliper and pads. Avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles to allow proper break-in.
• If the brake warning light is illuminated on the dashboard, or if the pedal feels abnormal in any way, do not drive the vehicle—have it inspected by a qualified technician immediately.

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