This procedure covers the complete disassembly, rebuild, and reinstallation of the front brake calipers on a 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L, including piston seal replacement and proper bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (includes piston seals, dust boots, bleeder caps) × 2 — Use OEM Kia specification or equivalent
• Brake fluid DOT 4 × 1 — Minimum 1 quart needed for bleeding
• Caliper slide pin boot kit (if damaged) × 2 — Inspect before ordering
• Thread locker medium strength × 1 — Blue Loctite or equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground, engage parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove
3. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands at manufacturer's designated lift points
4. Remove both front wheels completely
5. Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and remove cap - check fluid level
6. Place a drain pan or absorbent pads under work area to catch brake fluid
7. Have all rebuild kit components, tools, and fresh brake fluid ready before disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from brake assembly
   Open bleeder screw slightly to relieve pressure, then close. Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 17mm socket. Carefully lift caliper off the rotor and brake pads. Support caliper with wire or bungee cord - DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Mark caliper position (left/right) for reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Place a drain pan underneath. Using a 12mm wrench, disconnect the brake hose banjo bolt from the rear of the caliper. Immediately plug the brake hose end with a rubber cap or clean rag to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove and discard the two copper crush washers - new ones should be included in rebuild kit. Take caliper to clean workbench area.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain from both the hose and caliper. Have catch container ready and work quickly to minimize air entry into brake lines.
3. 3

   Remove caliper piston
   Remove dust boot retaining ring if present. Using either a brake caliper piston removal tool or CAREFULLY applied compressed air (maximum 20-30 PSI) directed into the brake hose inlet port, remove the piston from the caliper bore. If using compressed air, wrap caliper in a towel and keep fingers clear - piston will pop out. Place a block of wood in front of piston to catch it and prevent damage.
   ⚠️Keep hands and body clear when using compressed air. Piston can eject with significant force causing injury. Use minimum air pressure necessary.
4. 4

   Remove old seals and inspect components
   Using plastic picks (never metal tools), carefully remove the piston seal from the groove inside the caliper bore. Remove dust boot completely. Thoroughly clean caliper bore, piston, and all internal passages with brake parts cleaner and lint-free cloths. Inspect caliper bore for scoring, pitting, or corrosion - any damage beyond light surface discoloration requires caliper replacement. Measure piston diameter and inspect for chrome plating damage, scoring, or corrosion. Check that bleeder screw threads are not stripped.
   ⚠Metal tools will damage the precision caliper bore surface. Use only plastic or wood picks for seal removal.
   ℹ️Caliper bore and piston must be mirror-smooth. Any roughness will cause seal failure and fluid leaks.
5. 5

   Install new piston seal
   Coat the new piston seal (square-cut seal from rebuild kit) with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Carefully install the seal into the groove in the caliper bore using fingers or seal installation tool from rebuild kit. Ensure seal is seated evenly all the way around the groove with no twists or pinches. The seal should sit completely below the bore surface.
   ⚠Do not overstretch the seal during installation. Any nicks, cuts, or twists will cause immediate brake fluid leakage.
6. 6

   Install piston and dust boot
   Generously coat the caliper piston with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Coat the caliper bore with brake fluid as well. Install the new dust boot onto the piston groove first (if design requires). Carefully align piston squarely with caliper bore and push straight in by hand, rotating slightly as you press. The piston should slide in smoothly - if resistance is felt, remove and check alignment. Push piston until it bottoms in the bore. Install dust boot into caliper body groove, ensuring it's fully seated all around.
   ⚠Piston must enter bore perfectly straight. Forcing a cocked piston will damage the seal and bore.
7. 7

   Service caliper slide pins and bracket
   Remove slide pins from caliper bracket. Clean slide pins and bores thoroughly with brake parts cleaner. Inspect slide pin boots for tears or damage - replace if compromised. Inspect slide pin surfaces for corrosion or binding. Apply thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to slide pins (not petroleum-based grease). Reinstall slide pins into bracket, ensuring boots are properly seated.
   ⚠Only use silicone-based brake grease. Petroleum-based products will destroy rubber seals and boots.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect brake hose to caliper
   Install NEW copper crush washers (one on each side of banjo fitting) onto the brake hose banjo bolt. Position caliper and thread banjo bolt through brake hose fitting and into caliper body by hand. Torque banjo bolt to manufacturer specification (typically 18-23 Nm, though not listed in provided specs - consult service manual). Ensure brake hose is not twisted and has adequate clearance during wheel turning.
   ⚠️Never reuse copper crush washers. Old washers will not seal properly and will cause brake fluid leakage and brake failure.
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper to bracket
   Ensure brake pads are properly positioned in bracket. If bracket was removed, reinstall bracket to steering knuckle and torque bracket bolts to specification using thread locker. Position caliper over brake pads and rotor. Install caliper slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Verify caliper moves freely on slide pins.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed brake caliper - initial fill
    Attach clear hose to bleeder screw and place other end in catch container with small amount of clean brake fluid. Have assistant slowly press brake pedal (or use one-person bleeder). Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn with 8mm wrench. Allow fluid and air to flow into container. Close bleeder screw before pedal reaches floor. Repeat process until fluid flows with no air bubbles. Check master cylinder reservoir frequently and keep full - never let it run dry.
    ⚠️If master cylinder reservoir runs dry during bleeding, air will enter the ABS system requiring professional scan tool bleeding. Monitor level constantly.
    ⚠Close bleeder screw BEFORE pedal bottoms out each time to prevent drawing air back into system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat rebuild process on opposite side
    Perform steps 1-10 on the opposite front caliper. Complete rebuild of second caliper following identical procedure. Both calipers must be rebuilt for balanced braking performance.
    ℹ️Do not drive vehicle with only one caliper rebuilt. Complete both sides before test driving.
12. 12

    Final system bleeding
    After both calipers are rebuilt and initially bled, perform complete brake system bleeding in this sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. At each wheel, repeat bleeding process until clear fluid with no air bubbles flows. Pump brake pedal multiple times between wheels. Top off master cylinder to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid when complete.
    ⚠️Inadequate bleeding will result in spongy pedal and reduced braking capability. Continue bleeding until pedal is firm and consistent.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheels and perform final torque
    Install wheels onto hubs, threading lug nuts by hand first. Lower vehicle until tires just touch ground but weight is still on jack stands. Torque lug nuts in star pattern to specification. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Re-torque lug nuts in star pattern to final specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all bleeder screws are closed and torqued to specification
2. Confirm brake fluid reservoir is at MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid
3. Check all brake line connections for leaks - look for wet spots around banjo bolts
4. Ensure caliper slide pins have silicone brake grease applied
5. Verify caliper bracket bolts received thread locker and are torqued to 120 Nm

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal 20-30 times - pedal should be firm and consistent, not spongy or soft
• Pedal should not sink slowly to floor when held under pressure for 30 seconds - this indicates leaks
• Start engine and verify brake pedal height does not drop significantly (slight drop is normal with brake booster assist)
• Check under vehicle and around all four wheels for any signs of brake fluid leakage
• Perform low-speed test drive in safe area (parking lot) - verify brakes engage smoothly with no pulling to either side
• Test brakes at progressively higher speeds up to 25-30 mph before normal driving
• After first 50-100 miles, re-check brake fluid level and inspect for leaks at caliper banjo bolts and bleeder screws
• Listen for any unusual noises during braking that could indicate improper installation
• Check that brake warning light on dashboard is OFF and no ABS codes are present
• If pedal feel is not firm and confident, or if any pulling or unusual behavior occurs, DO NOT DRIVE - re-inspect all work and re-bleed system

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