suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Rear
for 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
18
Steps
15
This procedure covers the replacement of rear control arm bushings on a 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L, requiring removal of the control arm assembly for bushing replacement or arm replacement.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension at normal ride height, not with suspension hanging.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can damage boots if misused. Position tool carefully to avoid tearing protective boots.
ℹ️Mark control arm orientation before removal to ensure correct reinstallation.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Torque wrench (80-180 Nm range)Essential
17mm socketEssential
19mm socketEssential
14mm socketEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Hammer
Allen key setEssential
Cotter pin removal tool or needle-nose pliersEssential
New cotter pinsEssential
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/installation kitEssential
Parts
- Rear control arm bushing set (front and rear bushings) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent aftermarket
- Cotter pin × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at proper chassis lift points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Spray all control arm mounting bolts and ball joint nut with penetrating oil and let soak 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Disconnect sway bar link if equippedLocate the sway bar end link connected to the control arm or knuckle. Hold the ball stud shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning, then remove the sway bar link nut using a 14mm socket. Separate the link from the control arm or knuckle and secure it out of the way with wire or zip tie.Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pinLocate the ball joint connection between the control arm and rear knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Discard the old cotter pin as it must be replaced with a new one during reassembly.
- 3Loosen ball joint nutUsing a 17mm socket, loosen the ball joint castle nut but do NOT remove it completely yet. Leave it threaded on 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the taper is separated.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 4Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the control arm and knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool with a hammer or tighten the threaded separator to break the taper connection. Once the joint pops free, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.⚠Ensure the knuckle is supported or cannot fall when ball joint separates to prevent damage to brake components or ABS sensor wiring.
- 5Mark control arm positionBefore removing the control arm mounting bolts, use a paint marker or scribe to mark the position of the control arm relative to the subframe or mounting brackets. This ensures proper alignment during reinstallation and maintains rear wheel alignment settings.
- 6Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front control arm mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe or front mounting bracket. Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, remove the bolt completely. Support the control arm with your hand as the bolt is removed to prevent it from falling.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 7Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear control arm mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe or rear mounting bracket. Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, remove this bolt completely. The control arm should now be free to remove from the vehicle.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 8Remove control arm from vehicleCarefully maneuver the control arm out of the suspension area, navigating around brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, and other components. Inspect the ball joint for wear, torn boots, or excessive play. If ball joint is damaged, replace the entire control arm assembly.
- 9Press out old bushingsUsing a hydraulic press and appropriate size bushing removal adapters, press out the old front and rear control arm bushings. Position the control arm in the press with the bushing facing down and a receiver cup beneath to catch the bushing as it exits. Apply steady pressure until the bushing is completely removed. Repeat for the second bushing. Clean the bushing bore with a wire brush and inspect for cracks or damage.⚠Wear safety glasses when using hydraulic press. Bushings can eject suddenly under pressure.
- 10Press in new bushingsApply a thin coat of soapy water or bushing installation lubricant to the new bushings and control arm bores. Position the new bushing squarely in the bore, ensuring any orientation marks or voids align correctly per manufacturer instructions. Using the hydraulic press with proper size installation adapters, press the bushing in until it is fully seated and flush with the control arm. The bushing should be centered in the bore. Repeat for the second bushing.
- 11Install control arm to subframePosition the control arm back into the suspension mounting location, aligning it with the marks made during removal. Insert the front and rear mounting bolts through the control arm bushings and subframe brackets, but do NOT tighten them yet. Thread the bolts in just enough to hold the control arm in place. The bushings must be torqued at normal ride height.
- 12Connect ball joint to knuckleRaise the control arm ball joint up to the knuckle mounting hole. Insert the ball joint stud through the hole and thread on the castle nut. Tighten the nut to the specified torque of 84 Nm (62 lb-ft). If the castle nut slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten slightly more (never loosen) until alignment is achieved. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 13Reconnect sway bar link if equippedPosition the sway bar end link back to the control arm or knuckle connection point. Thread on the nut while holding the ball stud shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning. Tighten to the specified torque of 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).Torque specSway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 14Install wheel and lower vehicleMount the wheel back onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until snug but not fully torqued. Carefully raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle completely to the ground so the suspension is at normal ride height with full vehicle weight on the wheels.
- 15Torque control arm bolts and lug nutsWith the vehicle at normal ride height and weight on the suspension, torque the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). This is critical - these bolts must be torqued with the suspension loaded to prevent bushing bind and premature failure. Finally, torque the wheel lug nuts to 129 Nm (95 lb-ft) in a star pattern.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at ride height with vehicle weight on suspension. Torquing with suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)Wheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Torque all fasteners to specification in the correct sequence
- Ensure new cotter pin is properly installed and secured on ball joint
- Verify sway bar link is properly connected if equipped
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle and verify no clunking or abnormal noises from rear suspension
- Check for proper handling and stability during turns
- Perform a complete four-wheel alignment as control arm removal affects rear toe and camber settings
- Visually inspect all connections after 50-100 miles to ensure nothing has loosened