drivetrain
CV Axles - Front Pair
for 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.8 h
Tools
14
Steps
13
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of both front CV axles on a 2015 Kia Forte with the 1.8L I4 engine, including disconnection from the hub and inner CV joint.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Some transmission fluid will drain when removing the inner CV joint from the transaxle. Have a drain pan ready.
⚠Axle nut must be loosened while vehicle is on the ground with brakes applied to prevent wheel rotation.
ℹ️New axle nuts should be used. If reusing, verify locking feature is intact and use new cotter pin or re-stake as applicable.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (50-300 Nm range)Essential
Breaker barEssential
32mm or 36mm axle nut socketEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
17mm socket and wrench for ball jointEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Pry barEssential
Hammer
Wire or bungee cord for suspension support
Drain panEssential
Plastic mallet
Needle nose pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Parts
- Front CV axle (driver side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket equivalent
- Front CV axle (passenger side) × 1 — Use OEM specification or aftermarket equivalent
- Axle nut (new) × 2 — M20 x 1.5 self-locking nut or staked nut
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 2 — 3mm diameter if applicable
- Transmission fluid × 1 — Kia SP-IV-M ATF to top off
Fluids
- Kia SP-IV-M ATF — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Chock rear wheels securely
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Break torque on both front axle nuts using breaker bar and 32mm/36mm socket while vehicle is on ground with brakes applied
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer specified lift points
- Remove both front wheels completely
- Place drain pan under transaxle area to catch any ATF spillage
Procedure
- 1Remove axle nut completelyWith the wheel removed and vehicle supported, remove the axle nut completely from both sides. Remove and discard the cotter pin if present, or remove the staked portion of the nut. The nut should already be loosened from preparation steps.
- 2Disconnect lower ball joint from knuckleRemove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut using needle nose pliers. Remove the ball joint nut completely. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the lower control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle. Support the knuckle/strut assembly with wire or bungee cord to prevent strain on the brake hose.⚠Do not damage the ball joint boot during separation. Use proper ball joint separator tool rather than striking with hammer.
- 3Separate CV axle from hubPush the CV axle shaft out of the wheel hub/bearing assembly. If the axle is stuck, use a plastic mallet to tap the end of the axle through the hub. Do not use excessive force that could damage the bearing. Pull the knuckle/hub assembly outward to fully separate it from the outer CV joint splines.
- 4Remove inner CV joint from transaxle (driver side)Position drain pan under the driver side inner CV joint area. Insert a pry bar between the inner CV joint housing and the transaxle case. Pry firmly to pop the CV axle out of the differential side gear. Be careful not to damage the transaxle seal. Pull the axle straight out once the circlip releases. Some ATF will drain out - this is normal.⚠Pry against the CV joint housing, not the axle shaft itself, to avoid damaging the shaft or joint.
- 5Remove inner CV joint from transaxle (passenger side)Reposition drain pan under the passenger side inner CV joint. Use the same prying technique to release the passenger side CV axle from the transaxle differential. Pull the axle assembly completely free from the vehicle.
- 6Inspect differential seals and clean splinesInspect the transaxle differential seals on both sides for damage or excessive wear. If seals are damaged, they should be replaced before installing new axles. Clean any debris from the differential side gear splines using a clean rag.
- 7Install new CV axle inner joint (driver side)Verify the circlip is properly installed on the inner CV joint splines of the new axle. Align the splines with the differential side gear and push the axle firmly into the transaxle until you feel and hear the circlip seat with a distinct click. Pull outward on the axle to confirm it is locked in place.ℹ️The circlip must fully seat in the differential groove. A partial engagement will cause the axle to pull out under load.
- 8Install new CV axle inner joint (passenger side)Repeat the installation process for the passenger side axle. Ensure the circlip clicks into place and pull outward to verify secure engagement.
- 9Install outer CV joint into hubGuide the outer CV joint splines into the wheel hub/bearing assembly on both sides. Push the knuckle inward and align the splines carefully. The axle should slide through the hub with moderate hand pressure. Thread the new axle nut onto the axle shaft by hand several turns to hold the axle in position, but do not torque yet.
- 10Reconnect lower ball joint to knucklePosition the lower control arm ball joint into the steering knuckle. Install the ball joint castle nut and tighten to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud, bending the ends to secure.⚠Ensure the ball joint taper is fully seated in the knuckle before torquing. The nut should tighten smoothly without binding.Torque specBall Joint Nut97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
- 11Install wheels and lower vehicleInstall both front wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tires just touch the ground but weight is still on the jack stands. This prevents wheel rotation for final torquing.
- 12Torque axle nuts and wheel lug nutsWith the vehicle weight partially on the ground and brakes applied, torque both axle nuts to specification using the torque wrench. Install new cotter pins through the axle nut castellations if equipped, or stake the nut collar into the axle shaft groove per manufacturer design. Fully lower the vehicle to the ground and torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.⚠Axle nut must be torqued with wheel on ground and brakes applied to achieve proper torque without spinning the axle.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 13Check and top off transmission fluidCheck the automatic transmission fluid level according to manufacturer procedure (typically warm engine, level ground, engine running in Park). Top off with Kia SP-IV-M ATF as needed to bring level to the proper mark on the dipstick. Approximately 0.5-1.0 quart may be needed to replace fluid lost during axle removal.
Reassembly
- Reassembly is covered in the main procedure steps as this is a replacement job
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification and cotter pins are properly installed
- Ensure no tools or parts are left in the wheel wells or under the vehicle
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no clicking, popping, or vibration from the CV axles
- Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while moving slowly to verify CV joints operate smoothly without binding
- Recheck transmission fluid level after test drive with engine at operating temperature
- Inspect for any ATF leaks around the transaxle seals where the axles enter
- Verify axle nuts are secure and cotter pins or stakes are properly installed
- After 50-100 miles, recheck wheel lug nut torque and ball joint nut torque