steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.2 h
Tools
13
Steps
13
This procedure covers the replacement of the inner tie rod end on a 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L, requiring removal of the outer tie rod and proper torquing of lock nuts.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠An alignment will be required after this repair. Marking the old tie rod position helps minimize toe change but does not eliminate alignment necessity.
⚠Do not turn the steering wheel with tie rod disconnected from the knuckle, as this can damage the clockspring.
ℹ️Inner tie rod replacement requires disturbing the steering rack boot, which must be properly sealed during reassembly to prevent contamination.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Torque wrench (30-150 Nm range)Essential
Inner tie rod removal tool or large adjustable wrenchEssential
Outer tie rod separator or pickle forkEssential
17mm wrench for tie rod lock nutEssential
19mm wrench for outer tie rod end nutEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Paint marker or tape measureEssential
Steering rack boot clamp pliersEssential
Parts
- Inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification for 2015 Forte
- Outer tie rod lock nut × 1 — Replace if damaged
- Cotter pin for outer tie rod × 1 — Standard automotive cotter pin
- Steering rack boot clamp × 1 — Replace if damaged during removal
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove wheel completely
- Spray penetrating oil on all tie rod threads and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove outer tie rod cotter pin and nutRemove and discard the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut using pliers. Using a 19mm wrench, remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle. Do not reuse the cotter pin.Torque specTie Rod End Nut52 Nm (38 lb-ft)
- 2Separate outer tie rod from knuckleUsing a tie rod separator tool or pickle fork, separate the outer tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle. Strike the tool sharply to break the taper. Avoid damaging the ball joint boot if reusing the outer tie rod.
- 3Mark tie rod position for referenceBefore loosening the lock nut, use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod relative to the inner tie rod threads, or measure the exposed thread length. This reference helps maintain approximate alignment settings.
- 4Loosen and remove tie rod lock nutUsing a 17mm wrench, loosen the jam/lock nut that secures the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. Thread the lock nut toward the steering rack but leave it on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of turns required to remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod.Torque specTie Rod Lock Nut64 Nm (48 lb-ft)
- 5Remove outer tie rod endUnthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod by turning it counterclockwise. Count the rotations as you remove it to aid in installation of the new assembly to approximate the same position.
- 6Remove steering rack boot clampLocate the steering rack boot clamp at the inner tie rod connection. Using boot clamp pliers or appropriate tool, release and remove the clamp securing the boot to the inner tie rod. Slide the boot toward the steering rack to expose the inner tie rod connection.
- 7Remove inner tie rod endUsing an inner tie rod removal tool (crowfoot wrench style) or large adjustable wrench, grip the flats on the inner tie rod end. While holding the steering rack stationary, turn the inner tie rod counterclockwise to unthread it from the rack. The rack may need to be held with another wrench on the flat sections to prevent rotation.⚠Do not allow the steering rack to rotate excessively during inner tie rod removal as this can damage internal components.
- 8Clean threads and inspect componentsClean the threads on the steering rack with a wire brush. Inspect the rack threads for damage. Check the steering rack boot for tears or damage and replace if necessary. Verify the new inner tie rod matches the old part in thread pitch and length.
- 9Install new inner tie rodApply a light coating of clean power steering fluid to the rack threads. Thread the new inner tie rod onto the steering rack by hand, then tighten to specification using the inner tie rod tool. Ensure it is fully seated and tight. Note: While no specific torque is provided for the inner tie rod to rack connection, ensure it is very tight (typically 65-75 ft-lbs for similar applications).ℹ️Hand-tighten first to ensure threads engage properly without cross-threading.
- 10Reinstall steering rack bootSlide the steering rack boot back over the inner tie rod end until it seats properly in its groove. Install a new boot clamp and crimp or tighten securely. Ensure the boot is not twisted and is properly sealed to prevent dirt and moisture entry.
- 11Install outer tie rod endThread the outer tie rod (reused or new) onto the new inner tie rod the same number of turns counted during removal, aligning with your reference marks. This provides an approximate starting point for alignment. Do not tighten the lock nut yet.
- 12Connect outer tie rod to knuckleInsert the outer tie rod ball stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. The castellations must align with the cotter pin hole. If needed, tighten slightly additional (never loosen) to align the castle nut slots with the hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.Torque specTie Rod End Nut52 Nm (38 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- The tie rod lock nut should NOT be torqued until after a professional wheel alignment is performed
- After alignment, torque the tie rod lock nut to 64 Nm (48 lb-ft) while holding the outer tie rod to prevent rotation
- Verify the steering rack boot is properly sealed with no tears or loose clamps
Verification
- Test steering for full lock-to-lock operation with no binding or unusual noises
- Check that the outer tie rod ball joint has no play or looseness
- Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent loosening
- Have vehicle professionally aligned as soon as possible after repair
- After alignment, verify the lock nut is torqued to specification and the boot clamp is secure