Back to 2015 Kia Forte

2015 KIA FORTE

1.8L I4FWDAUTOMATICgas
1 active safety recall on this vehicle — view recalls
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steering

Tie Rod End - Outer

for 2015 Kia Forte 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
12
Steps
9

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2015 Kia Forte with 1.8L I4 engine, including proper torque specifications and alignment preparation.

Warnings

Vehicle MUST receive a professional wheel alignment after tie rod end replacement to prevent tire wear and steering issues.
Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands on solid, level ground.
ℹ️Tie rod end tapers can be difficult to separate. Striking the steering knuckle boss with a hammer while tension is applied may help break the taper free.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Lug wrench or 1/2 inch impact wrenchEssential
19mm wrench for tie rod lock nutEssential
17mm wrench or socket for tie rod end nutEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Measuring tape or thread counting toolEssential
Hammer
White paint marker or tape

Parts

  • Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Cotter pin × 1 — 2.5mm diameter x 25mm length

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground (do not remove)
  3. Raise vehicle with floor jack at appropriate front jacking point
  4. Support vehicle securely on jack stands at manufacturer-recommended lift points
  5. Remove wheel completely
  6. Spray penetrating oil on tie rod threads and castle nut if corrosion is present

Procedure

  1. 1
    Mark tie rod position
    Before loosening anything, measure and record the exposed thread length from the tie rod lock nut to the end of the tie rod, or count the number of visible threads. Alternatively, mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads with paint marker. This reference will help approximate the alignment when installing the new tie rod end.
  2. 2
    Remove cotter pin and castle nut
    Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut using pliers. Discard the old cotter pin. Using a 17mm wrench or socket, remove the tie rod end castle nut completely from the tie rod ball stud. Keep the nut for reference but it will not be reused with the torque specification.
  3. 3
    Separate tie rod end from knuckle
    Use a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the tie rod end ball stud taper from the steering knuckle. Insert the separator between the tie rod end and knuckle boss, then apply pressure. If necessary, tap the knuckle boss area with a hammer while applying upward pressure on the separator to break the taper seal. Once separated, remove the tie rod end from the knuckle bore.
    Do not use excessive force on the tie rod boot or inner tie rod, as this can damage the steering rack boot and seal.
  4. 4
    Loosen tie rod lock nut
    Using a 19mm wrench, loosen the tie rod lock nut that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Do not remove the lock nut completely yet; leave it threaded on to mark position. If the entire tie rod assembly spins, hold the inner tie rod flat surfaces with an adjustable wrench while loosening the lock nut.
  5. 5
    Remove outer tie rod end
    Count the number of complete turns as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Write down this number for reference during installation. Once the outer tie rod end is free, remove the lock nut completely. Inspect the inner tie rod threads and clean with a wire brush if necessary.
  6. 6
    Install new outer tie rod end
    Thread the tie rod lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end first (with the nut oriented to tighten against the tie rod end body when torqued). Apply a light coating of anti-seize to the inner tie rod threads if desired. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns recorded during removal, or until it matches the measurement/mark made in Step 1. Do not fully tighten the lock nut yet.
  7. 7
    Install tie rod end into knuckle
    Insert the tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle bore. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the taper. Thread the new tie rod end nut onto the ball stud and tighten by hand until snug. The tie rod end should not be loose in the knuckle bore.
  8. 8
    Torque tie rod end nut and install cotter pin
    Using a torque wrench and 17mm socket, torque the tie rod end nut to specification. If the cotter pin holes do not align at the specified torque, tighten the nut slightly MORE (never loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole in the ball stud. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud, then bend the ends of the pin to secure it.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Nut52 Nm (38 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reinstall wheel
    Position the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (weight not fully on tire). Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, torque the lug nuts to specification. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands and floor jack.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Do NOT torque the tie rod lock nut to specification until AFTER a professional wheel alignment has been performed
  2. After alignment, the lock nut should be torqued to 64.0 Nm (48 lb-ft) while holding the outer tie rod end to prevent it from turning

Verification

  • Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent backing out
  • Confirm the tie rod end has no play by attempting to move it by hand while the wheel is off the ground
  • Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering response before highway use
  • Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately - the vehicle should not be driven extensively without proper alignment

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