brakes

Brake Hose - Rear

for 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace the rear brake hose on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins diesel engine, including bleeding the brake system to restore proper braking function.

Warnings

⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can cause loss of vehicle control, serious injury, or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never reuse copper crush washers on banjo bolts. Always install new washers to prevent brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
⚠️Do not drive the vehicle until the brake system is fully bled and brake pedal feels firm. Test brakes in a safe area at low speed before normal operation.
Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and plastics. Immediately clean any spills with water. Wear eye protection.
Use only DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not mix different brake fluid types or brands. Contaminated brake fluid can cause system failure.
This 2500 series truck is heavy. Ensure jack stands are properly rated and positioned on frame contact points.
ℹ️Brake hoses deteriorate over time. Inspect all brake hoses during this procedure and replace if cracking, bulging, or chafing is observed.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake firmly
  2. Chock the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement
  3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-specified jacking points on frame
  5. Support vehicle with jack stands rated for at least 7,000 lbs at frame contact points - never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack
  6. Remove rear wheel and tire completely
  7. Place drain pan under brake caliper area to catch brake fluid
  8. Identify which rear brake hose requires replacement (driver or passenger side)
  9. Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and verify fluid level is visible - do not remove cap yet

Procedure

  1. 1
    Clean brake line connections
    Use wire brush to clean the brake hose fittings at both the caliper end (banjo bolt) and the chassis hard line connection. Apply penetrating oil to threaded connections if corrosion is present. Allow 5-10 minutes for penetration. Clean area thoroughly to prevent contamination of brake system.
  2. 2
    Remove caliper banjo bolt
    Position drain pan directly under caliper. Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the flexible brake hose to the rear caliper. Brake fluid will drain out. Immediately plug the caliper port with a clean rubber cap or wrap with clean plastic to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo fitting - these must not be reused.
  3. 3
    Disconnect hose from chassis bracket
    Locate the brake hose bracket mounted to the vehicle frame or axle housing. Remove the retaining clip or bolt securing the brake hose to the bracket. On this model, the hose typically uses a spring clip or bolt attachment. If bolted, use appropriate socket to remove bracket bolt. Note the routing and orientation of the hose for installation.
  4. 4
    Disconnect hard line connection
    At the junction where the flexible hose meets the rigid brake line (typically near the frame or axle), use a flare nut wrench to carefully loosen the threaded fitting. Hold the hose-end fitting stationary while turning the flare nut to prevent twisting the brake hose. Remove the flexible hose completely from the vehicle. Cap or plug the hard line immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  5. 5
    Inspect and prepare new brake hose
    Verify the new brake hose matches the original in length, fitting types, and bracket mounting points. Check that you have new copper crush washers (two per banjo connection). Remove any protective caps from the new hose ends just before installation. Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the hose openings.
  6. 6
    Install new hose to hard line
    Begin installation at the chassis hard line connection. Thread the new flexible hose onto the rigid brake line fitting by hand first, ensuring threads engage properly without cross-threading. Route the hose following the exact path of the original, ensuring no twists or kinks. Use flare nut wrench to tighten the connection firmly, but do not overtighten (typically hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with wrench).
  7. 7
    Secure hose to chassis bracket
    Position the brake hose into the chassis mounting bracket, ensuring proper orientation and alignment. The hose must not be twisted or kinked. Install the retaining clip or bracket bolt. If using a bolt, torque to specification. Verify the hose has slight slack and will not be stretched during suspension travel or steering movement.
    Torque spec
    Brake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Connect hose to caliper with new washers
    Place one NEW copper crush washer on the banjo fitting of the brake hose. Insert the banjo fitting into the caliper port. Place the second NEW copper crush washer on the outside. Thread the banjo bolt through the washers and into the caliper by hand. Verify proper alignment and that the hose is not twisted. Torque the banjo bolt to specification using a torque wrench.
    ⚠️Never reuse old copper washers. Using worn washers will cause brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
    Torque spec
    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Perform initial system bleeding - rear caliper
    Locate the brake bleeder screw on the rear caliper (typically on top of caliper body). Have an assistant available or use a brake bleeder kit. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood. Attach clear tubing to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a container with clean brake fluid to prevent air from being drawn back in. Open bleeder screw 1/2 turn. Have assistant slowly press brake pedal to the floor and hold. Close bleeder screw before pedal is released. Repeat 5-10 times until fluid flows without air bubbles. Top off reservoir as needed - never let it run dry.
    Torque spec
    Bleeder Screw18 Nm (14 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Bleed remaining wheels in sequence
    After bleeding the wheel where the hose was replaced, proceed to bleed the remaining wheels in the proper sequence for this vehicle: 1) Right Rear, 2) Left Rear, 3) Right Front, 4) Left Front. Use the same bleeding procedure as step 9 for each wheel. Continue bleeding each wheel until clear, bubble-free brake fluid emerges. Continuously monitor and refill the brake fluid reservoir to prevent introducing air into the system.
    Never allow the brake fluid reservoir to empty during bleeding. This will introduce air into the ABS pump and require special scan tool bleeding procedures.
  11. 11
    Inspect for leaks and verify connections
    With the brake pedal released, carefully inspect all connections made during this repair: the banjo bolt at the caliper, the chassis bracket, and the hard line connection. Look for any signs of brake fluid seepage. Have an assistant press the brake pedal firmly and hold (do not pump) while you inspect again under pressure. Check for leaks, bulging of the hose, or loosening of fittings. If any leaks are found, do not proceed - correct the issue immediately.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and tire
    Clean the wheel mounting surface on the hub and the wheel itself. Install the wheel onto the hub, ensuring it seats properly. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using a wrench, but do not torque fully yet. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (still supported mostly by jack stands).
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Final torque and lower vehicle
    With the tire on the ground, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a calibrated torque wrench. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely to the ground. Torque lug nuts again in star pattern to ensure proper seating. Remove wheel chocks.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Fill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid
  2. Reinstall brake fluid reservoir cap securely
  3. Pump brake pedal 20-30 times to build pressure in the system
  4. Clean any spilled brake fluid from painted surfaces, chassis, and wheels immediately with water
  5. Dispose of used brake fluid according to local environmental regulations - do not pour down drains

Verification

  • With engine off, pump brake pedal several times - pedal should feel firm and not sink to the floor
  • Start engine and verify brake pedal does not sink when constant pressure is applied for 30 seconds
  • Check brake fluid reservoir level - should be at MAX line with no air bubbles visible
  • Perform a final visual inspection of all brake connections for any signs of fluid leakage
  • Test brakes at low speed (5-10 mph) in a safe area with no traffic - vehicle should stop straight and firm without pulling to one side
  • Perform moderate brake application at 25-30 mph in safe area - braking should be smooth and responsive
  • Recheck all connections and fluid level after test drive
  • Monitor brake pedal feel and check for leaks over the next several days of normal driving

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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More procedures for this vehicle

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