Replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins diesel engine, ensuring proper torque specifications and brake system integrity.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (ceramic or semi-metallic) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Front brake rotors (pair) × 2 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake hardware kit (clips, springs, shims) × 1 — Included with quality pad sets

Fluids

• Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface. Place transmission in Park, engage parking brake, and chock rear wheels securely.
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground, but do not remove.
3. Lift front of vehicle using floor jack at designated jacking points on frame. Secure with jack stands under frame rails behind front axle.
4. Remove front wheels completely and set aside.
5. Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir. Check fluid level and remove some fluid if near MAX line using turkey baster to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons. Dispose of old brake fluid properly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper slide bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are typically 13mm or 15mm hex head bolts. Using a ratchet and appropriate socket, remove both caliper slide bolts completely. Support the caliper with one hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
2. 2

   Remove and support caliper
   Carefully pivot the caliper up and away from the rotor. Do NOT allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally. Use a wire hook or bungee cord to suspend the caliper from the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension on the brake hose.
   ⚠Never let caliper hang by brake hose. Internal hose damage may not be visible but can cause brake failure.
3. 3

   Remove old brake pads and hardware
   Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the position of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or springs. Take a photo if needed for reference during reassembly. Remove all old hardware clips from the caliper bracket. Inspect caliper bracket for damage or excessive wear.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Locate the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are larger bolts typically requiring an 18mm socket and will be very tight. Use a breaker bar if necessary to loosen them. Remove both bolts completely and remove the caliper bracket. Keep track of these bolts as they will be reused with thread locker.
5. 5

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the old rotor straight off the wheel hub. If rotor is stuck due to rust or corrosion, thread two M8 or M10 bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor face (if equipped) to press it off, or tap around the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet. Use penetrating oil if necessary. Clean any rust or debris from the wheel hub mounting surface with a wire brush.
6. 6

   Install new rotor
   Spray brake cleaner on both sides of the new rotor to remove any protective coating or oils applied during manufacturing. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Slide the new rotor onto the hub, ensuring it sits flat against the hub face. If rotor has directional cooling vanes, verify correct orientation per manufacturer markings. Use a lug nut to temporarily hold rotor in place during assembly.
7. 7

   Clean and reinstall caliper bracket
   Clean the caliper bracket mounting surfaces and slide pin contact areas with wire brush and brake cleaner. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Position bracket over rotor and start both bracket bolts by hand. Tighten bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern using torque wrench.
   ⚠Thread locker is required on caliper bracket bolts. Failure to use thread locker may result in bolt loosening and brake failure.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts137 Nm (101 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install new brake hardware and pads
   Install new anti-rattle clips, springs, and shims into the caliper bracket according to manufacturer instructions or using your reference photos. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points (NOT on friction material or rotor). Install inner and outer brake pads into bracket, ensuring they are fully seated in hardware clips.
9. 9

   Compress caliper piston
   Before reinstalling caliper, the piston must be compressed to accommodate new thicker pads. Place a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool over the caliper with the screw end on the piston and the frame against the back of the caliper body. Slowly compress the piston fully into the caliper bore. Watch the brake fluid reservoir and ensure it does not overflow. Remove compression tool.
10. 10

    Lubricate and inspect caliper slide pins
    Remove the caliper slide pins from the caliper bracket if not already removed. Clean all old grease from the pins and bores using brake cleaner. Inspect pins and boots for wear, corrosion, or damage. Replace if necessary. Apply silicone brake grease liberally to the slide pins and reinstall into bracket, ensuring boots are properly seated.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the wire or bungee cord supporting the caliper. Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads and align the slide pin bolt holes. Apply silicone brake grease to the slide bolt threads and under the bolt heads. Start both caliper slide bolts by hand, then tighten to specification using torque wrench in a cross pattern.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Bolts46 Nm (34 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 11 on the opposite front wheel to replace the other rotor and brake pads. Always replace brake components in axle sets to maintain balanced braking performance.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheels
    Remove temporary lug nut holding rotor. Install wheel onto hub, ensuring it seats properly against rotor. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern with hand tools but do not fully tighten while vehicle is on jack stands.
14. 14

    Lower vehicle and torque wheels
    Carefully lower vehicle from jack stands using floor jack until wheels just contact ground but suspension is not fully loaded. Remove jack stands. Lower vehicle completely to ground. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using torque wrench. Double-check all lug nuts are properly torqued.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Establish brake pedal and check fluid
    Before starting engine or moving vehicle, pump brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until firm resistance is felt. Pedal should become progressively firmer. Check brake fluid reservoir and top off with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid if needed to bring level to MAX line. Verify no leaks around calipers or brake lines. Start engine and pump brakes again, checking for proper pedal feel.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper bracket bolts were installed with thread locker and torqued to 137 Nm (101 lb-ft)
2. Verify caliper slide bolts were lubricated with silicone brake grease and torqued to 46 Nm (34 lb-ft)
3. Confirm wheel lug nuts torqued to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in star pattern
4. Check brake fluid level and top off with Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid as needed

Verification

• Pump brake pedal 10-15 times with engine off. Pedal should feel firm and not sink slowly to floor
• Start engine and verify brake pedal does not sink with steady pressure applied for 30 seconds
• Visually inspect all caliper bolts are tight and no fluid leaks are present around calipers or lines
• Test drive in safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly without pulling to one side
• Perform several moderate brake applications from 30 mph in safe area to verify proper operation
• Listen for any unusual noises (grinding, squealing beyond normal new pad break-in)
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after first 50-100 miles of driving
• Bed in new brakes with 200-300 miles of normal driving, avoiding hard stops except in emergencies

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