This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake rotors on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins Diesel, including caliper removal, rotor replacement, and proper torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake rotors × 2 — Use OEM specification or equivalent meeting SAE J431 standards
• Rotor set screws (if corroded) × 2 — M6 x 1.0mm set screws
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake.
2. Chock the front wheels securely to prevent rolling.
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on the ground.
4. Lift rear of vehicle using floor jack at manufacturer-specified lift points (rear axle housing).
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for at least 9,000 lbs, placed under the frame rails.
6. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
7. Inspect brake system for fluid leaks, damaged hoses, or excessive wear before proceeding.
8. Clean work area around brake assembly with brake cleaner to minimize dust exposure.

Procedure

1. 1

   Compress caliper piston
   Before removing the caliper, use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool to slowly compress the caliper piston back into its bore. Place the clamp on the back of the caliper body and against the outboard brake pad. Compress slowly to avoid damaging the caliper seal. This creates clearance and makes caliper removal easier. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir under the hood—fluid level will rise as piston is compressed. Remove some fluid with a turkey baster if necessary to prevent overflow.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper assembly. These are typically 13mm or 15mm hex bolts. Remove both slide pin bolts completely. Support the caliper with one hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling. The caliper should now be free to lift off the rotor and bracket.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Secure caliper assembly
   Carefully lift the caliper with brake pads still attached off the rotor. Do NOT allow the caliper to hang by the rubber brake hose. Use strong wire, a bungee cord, or a caliper hanger to securely suspend the caliper from the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension on the brake hose. If brake pads are being reused, keep track of their orientation.
   ⚠️Never let the caliper hang freely by the brake hose. This can cause internal hose damage leading to brake failure.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Locate the two large caliper bracket mounting bolts that secure the bracket to the axle flange. These are 18mm bolts and are torqued to high specification. Use a breaker bar if necessary to break them loose. Remove both bolts completely and remove the entire caliper bracket assembly. Set bracket and hardware aside in a clean area.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts137 Nm (101 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rotor set screws
   Locate the small set screw(s) on the face of the rotor that hold it to the hub. These are typically T30 Torx or Phillips head screws. Apply penetrating oil if corroded. Remove the set screw(s) completely. Note: these screws are often corroded and may strip or break—this is acceptable as they are only for assembly retention and are not safety-critical. If stripped, they can be drilled out.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws9 Nm (7 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, use a rubber mallet to tap around the outer edge and bell area of the rotor to break it free. Do NOT strike the rotor face or friction surface. If severely stuck, apply penetrating oil around the hub center and let sit for 15-20 minutes. Some rotors have threaded holes for forcing screws—if present, thread appropriately sized bolts into these holes and tighten evenly to push the rotor off the hub.
7. 7

   Prepare hub and mounting surface
   With the rotor removed, use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the hub face and center pilot ring where the rotor mounts. Remove all rust, scale, and debris. Clean the wheel studs and surrounding area. Any debris or rust left on the hub surface can cause rotor runout and pulsation. Wipe clean with brake cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Inspect hub bearing for play or damage while rotor is off.
8. 8

   Prepare and install new rotor
   Remove the new rotor from packaging. Clean both friction surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating or oil residue. Wipe dry with clean, lint-free cloths. Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole with the threaded hole in the hub. Ensure the rotor sits flush against the hub face with no gaps or debris preventing full seating.
   ℹ️New rotors have a protective oil coating that must be completely removed or it will cause brake noise and reduced performance.
9. 9

   Install rotor set screws
   Install new or cleaned set screw(s) through the rotor face into the hub. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the screw threads. Tighten to specification using a torque wrench. These screws only retain the rotor during assembly—the wheel and caliper bracket provide clamping force during operation.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws9 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and align the mounting holes with the axle flange. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the bracket bolt threads. Install both bracket mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench, tighten both caliper bracket bolts to specification in a cross pattern (alternating between bolts) to ensure even seating.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bracket Bolts137 Nm (101 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Prepare and reinstall caliper
    If reusing brake pads, inspect them for wear, cracks, or contamination. Minimum pad thickness is 3mm. Clean slide pins with brake cleaner and apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pins (do NOT use petroleum-based grease). Remove caliper from support wire. Position caliper over the rotor and bracket, ensuring brake pads are properly positioned on either side of the rotor.
12. 12

    Install caliper slide pin bolts
    Align the caliper with the slide pin holes in the bracket. Apply silicone brake grease to the slide pin bolt threads and contact surfaces as specified. Install both slide pin bolts and hand-tighten. Using a torque wrench, tighten both slide pin bolts to specification. Verify the caliper can slide freely on the pins after torquing.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts
    Clean the wheel mounting surface on the rotor hat with a wire brush. Position the wheel onto the hub, aligning lug nut holes with wheel studs. Install all lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle slightly so the wheel contacts the ground but does not bear full weight. Using a torque wrench, tighten lug nuts to specification in a star/cross pattern (not in a circle). Make at least two complete passes in the star pattern to ensure even torque distribution.
    ℹ️Star pattern means: if lug nuts are numbered 1-5 clockwise, tighten in order 1-3-5-2-4, or similar alternating pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Repeat all steps for the opposite rear wheel to replace both rear rotors.
2. Once both sides are complete and wheels are installed, fully lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. With vehicle on ground, re-torque all wheel lug nuts in star pattern to final specification to account for suspension settling.
4. Pump brake pedal slowly and firmly 10-15 times until pedal feels firm and returns to normal height. The pedal will initially feel soft because caliper pistons were compressed.
5. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off with Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid if needed. Fluid level should be between MIN and MAX marks.

Verification

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until it feels firm with normal travel. If pedal goes to the floor, do NOT drive—inspect for issues.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (5-10 mph) to verify brakes engage properly before returning to normal driving.
• Drive cautiously for the first 50-100 miles to properly bed in new rotors. Avoid hard braking during this period.
• New rotors and pads require a bedding procedure: perform 8-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph with adequate cooling time between stops. This transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor.
• Listen for any unusual noises (grinding, squealing beyond normal new-pad break-in noise) and verify no vibration during braking.
• After 50-100 miles, re-check wheel lug nut torque and verify all fasteners remain tight.
• Inspect for any brake fluid leaks around caliper and brake lines after first test drive.
• Verify parking brake operation is not affected by rotor replacement.

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