Complete rebuild of rear brake calipers on a 2014 Ram 2500 4WD with 6.7L Cummins, including disassembly, seal replacement, piston cleaning, reassembly, and system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper rebuild kit (includes pistons, seals, boots) × 2 — Use OEM Mopar or premium aftermarket kit for specific caliper type
• Brake caliper silicone grease × 1 — High-temperature synthetic brake lubricant
• Brake parts cleaner × 2 — Non-chlorinated brake cleaner
• Shop towels or lint-free rags × 1 — Lint-free shop towels

Fluids

• Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level ground and chock front wheels securely
2. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and check brake fluid level - mark fluid level for reference
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
4. Safely raise rear of vehicle and support with jack stands rated for vehicle weight
5. Remove rear wheels completely
6. Prepare clean workspace with all tools, rebuild kits, and brake cleaner readily accessible
7. Inspect brake rotors for damage - resurface or replace if scored or warped beyond specification
8. Have fresh DOT 4 brake fluid available and keep container sealed until needed

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from mounting bracket
   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using appropriate socket. Support the caliper with wire or bungee cord - do not allow it to hang by the brake hose. Mark or photograph brake hose orientation for reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose and remove caliper
   Place drain pan beneath caliper. Using a flare nut wrench, carefully disconnect the brake hose banjo bolt from the caliper. Allow fluid to drain into catch container. Immediately plug or cap the brake hose to prevent additional fluid loss and contamination. Remove caliper from vehicle and place on clean workspace.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain when hose is disconnected. Position catch pan to avoid spills on brake components.
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper body
   Remove the caliper dust boots from the piston(s). Using compressed air applied to the brake hose inlet port, carefully blow the piston(s) out of the caliper bore. Use caution - apply air gradually and control piston ejection with hand or thick rag. Never place fingers directly in front of piston during removal. Once piston is out, use seal pick to carefully remove piston seal from caliper bore groove without scratching the bore.
   ⚠️Compressed air can eject pistons with significant force causing injury. Keep hands clear of piston path and use controlled air pressure (20-30 PSI maximum).
   ⚠Do not scratch or gouge caliper bore or seal grooves. Damage to bore will cause leak and caliper failure.
4. 4

   Clean and inspect caliper components
   Thoroughly clean caliper bore, piston(s), and all internal passages with brake parts cleaner and lint-free towels. Inspect caliper bore for scoring, pitting, or corrosion. Light surface rust can be removed with fine cylinder hone or 1500+ grit sandpaper - heavy damage requires caliper replacement. Inspect piston(s) for scratches, pitting, or chrome peeling - replace if damaged. Clean bleeder screw threads and verify operation.
   ℹ️Any scoring or pitting in the caliper bore deeper than 0.005 inches requires caliper replacement. Do not attempt to rebuild damaged calipers.
5. 5

   Install new seals in caliper bore
   Verify rebuild kit components match caliper type. Lightly coat caliper bore and seal groove with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Carefully install new piston seal into the bore groove using only fingers - ensure seal seats completely in groove without twisting. Do not use tools that could damage the seal.
   ⚠Use only DOT 4 brake fluid or approved brake assembly fluid as lubricant. Never use petroleum-based products which will destroy rubber seals.
6. 6

   Install piston and dust boot
   Coat new or cleaned piston with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Carefully insert piston into caliper bore, ensuring it does not damage the seal. Push piston fully into bore using brake piston tool or C-clamp - apply even pressure. Install new dust boot over piston and seat into caliper body groove. Verify boot is fully seated around entire circumference.
   ⚠Ensure piston enters bore straight - cocking the piston will damage the new seal.
7. 7

   Lubricate and reassemble caliper hardware
   Clean caliper slide pins thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect slide pin boots for tears or damage - replace if compromised. Apply thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to slide pins (included in most rebuild kits). Install slide pins into caliper bracket boots. Clean caliper mounting bracket contact points with wire brush and apply thin layer of brake grease to prevent noise and ensure proper movement.
   ℹ️Use only silicone-based brake grease on slide pins - petroleum-based grease will damage rubber boots.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install caliper to bracket and connect brake hose
   Position rebuilt caliper over brake pads and rotor. Align caliper with mounting bracket and install slide pin bolts finger-tight. Connect brake hose to caliper using new copper crush washers (included in rebuild kit). Torque banjo bolt to 37 Nm (27 lb-ft). Torque caliper slide pin bolts to specification after applying silicone brake grease as noted.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Mounting Bolts37 Nm (27 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Repeat process for opposite side
   Perform steps 1-8 for the opposite rear caliper. Both rear calipers should be rebuilt during the same service to ensure even braking performance and to avoid the need to bleed the system multiple times.
10. 10

    Bleed rear brake system
    Starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (typically right rear), attach clear bleed hose to bleeder screw with other end submerged in container of clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 5-6 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid flows clear without air bubbles. Torque bleeder screw to specification. Repeat for left rear, then right front, then left front if needed.
    ⚠Never allow brake pedal to fully depress to floor during bleeding - this can damage master cylinder seals.
    ⚠Monitor master cylinder reservoir constantly during bleeding. Never allow reservoir to run dry or air will enter system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install wheels and perform final torque
    Install rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact ground but suspension is not loaded. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and verify final torque on all lug nuts in star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper slide pins and hardware are properly lubricated with silicone brake grease
2. Verify brake hose banjo bolts have new copper crush washers installed
3. Confirm master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid
4. Check for fluid leaks at all caliper connections and bleeder screws before test driving

Verification

• With engine running, pump brake pedal several times - pedal should become firm and hold pressure without sinking
• Verify no brake fluid leaks at caliper connections, bleeder screws, or brake hoses
• Check master cylinder fluid level - top off if necessary with DOT 4 fluid
• Test drive vehicle in safe area at low speed (under 10 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly and evenly
• Perform several moderate brake applications from 30-40 mph to bed-in new seals and verify proper operation
• Re-check all torque specifications after test drive, especially wheel lug nuts and caliper bolts
• Inspect for any fluid seepage around calipers after test drive - repeat bleeding if soft pedal persists
• Verify parking brake operates correctly if vehicle has rear disc parking brake integrated into calipers

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