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2014 RAM 2500

6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel4WDAUTOMATICdieselturbo
16 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs450Labor566Torque3843Fluid9DTC789Battery1Maintenance0Recalls16
steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.4 h
Tools
11
Steps
12

Replace tie rod assembly on 2014 Ram 2500 4WD with 6.7L Cummins, including removal of tie rod ends from steering knuckles and center link, requiring wheel alignment after completion.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be supported on jack stands rated for vehicle weight (8,800+ lbs). Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Tie rod separation tools can release suddenly under pressure. Keep hands and face clear of the joint when applying force.
Wheel alignment is mandatory after tie rod replacement. Driving without proper alignment can cause tire wear and handling issues.
ℹ️Mark or measure tie rod position before removal to establish a baseline toe setting for driving to alignment shop.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
21mm socketEssential
18mm wrenchEssential
Hammer
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
White marking paint or tape measureEssential
Breaker barEssential
Needle nose pliers (for cotter pins)Essential

Parts

  • Tie rod assembly (inner and outer) × 1 — Use OEM specification
  • Cotter pins × 2 — Use OEM specification
  • Tie rod ends (if replacing separately) × 2 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
  2. Chock rear wheels securely
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise front of vehicle and support with jack stands under frame rails
  5. Remove front wheels completely
  6. Spray all tie rod end nuts, castle nuts, and lock nuts with penetrating oil and allow 10-15 minutes to soak

Procedure

  1. 1
    Document tie rod position
    Before loosening anything, measure and mark the position of the outer tie rod end relative to the inner tie rod. Use white paint or tape measure to record the exposed thread length from the jam nut to the outer tie rod end. Take measurements on both sides. This provides a reference point for reassembly to minimize toe-out condition before alignment.
  2. 2
    Remove outer tie rod end cotter pin and castle nut
    Locate the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Use needle nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin. Discard the old cotter pin. Using a 21mm socket, remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud. Do not reuse this hardware.
    ℹ️Cotter pins must always be replaced with new pins. Never reuse old cotter pins as they lose retention strength.
  3. 3
    Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Position tie rod end separator tool between the steering knuckle and tie rod end taper. Strike the separator with a hammer or use a threaded-style separator to apply pressure. The taper will release suddenly when sufficient force is applied. Alternatively, use a pickle fork tool inserted between the joint and strike with hammer until the taper releases. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.
    Joint will release suddenly under pressure. Keep hands clear of pinch points and maintain stable footing.
  4. 4
    Loosen tie rod lock nut (jam nut)
    Using an 18mm wrench, loosen the jam nut (lock nut) that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. This nut is located on the threaded portion of the inner tie rod shaft. Do not remove completely yet, just break it loose. Note the position relative to your previous measurement marks.
  5. 5
    Remove outer tie rod end
    Count and record the number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. This provides additional reference for reinstallation. Once completely unthreaded, remove the outer tie rod end and jam nut together. Clean threads on inner tie rod with wire brush if necessary.
  6. 6
    Remove inner tie rod end from center link or rack
    Locate the castle nut where the inner tie rod connects to the steering center link (drag link style) or steering rack. Remove the cotter pin using needle nose pliers. Using appropriate socket (typically 21mm), remove the castle nut. Use tie rod separator or pickle fork to separate the tapered stud from the center link/rack. The inner tie rod assembly is now free.
  7. 7
    Install new inner tie rod end
    Insert the new inner tie rod end stud into the center link or steering rack mounting point. Ensure the taper seats fully and the stud protrudes through sufficiently for the castle nut. Install new castle nut and tighten to specification. Align the castle nut slots with the stud hole and install a new cotter pin. Bend cotter pin ends to secure.
    Do not back off castle nut to align cotter pin hole. If needed, tighten additional degrees until hole aligns with castle slot.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Thread outer tie rod end onto inner tie rod
    Thread the jam nut onto the new inner tie rod shaft first, followed by the outer tie rod end. Thread the outer tie rod end the same number of turns recorded during removal, using your measurement marks as reference. This establishes a baseline toe setting close to specifications for safe transport to alignment facility.
  9. 9
    Install outer tie rod end to steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper. Ensure it seats properly and the stud extends through completely. Install the new castle nut or tie rod end nut and tighten to specification using torque wrench. Align castle nut slots with cotter pin hole in stud and install new cotter pin. Bend cotter pin ends securely.
    ℹ️Verify the tapered stud seats fully in the knuckle before torquing. An improperly seated taper can separate under load.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Nut73 Nm (54 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Tighten tie rod lock nut (jam nut)
    Using an 18mm wrench, hold the outer tie rod end to prevent rotation. With a second wrench or socket on the jam nut, tighten the lock nut to specification. This nut should be tight against the outer tie rod end body. Note that final torque specification applies after alignment is performed, but snug the nut now to maintain position during transport.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod Lock Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1-10 for the opposite side tie rod assembly if replacing both sides. Maintain symmetry in measurements and thread engagement counts to keep baseline toe setting as close to center as possible.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
    Position wheels on hubs and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower vehicle until tires contact ground but jack stands still support weight. Tighten lug nuts in star pattern to specification using torque wrench. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Final torque lug nuts in star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Verify all castle nuts have new cotter pins properly installed and bent
  2. Confirm all tie rod connections are tight and properly seated
  3. Check that jam nuts are snugged against outer tie rod ends
  4. Ensure no tools or parts are left in wheel wells or under vehicle

Verification

  • Visually inspect all tie rod connections to verify proper seating and cotter pin installation
  • With vehicle on ground, attempt to rotate each front wheel by hand - there should be no unusual play or looseness in steering linkage
  • Start vehicle and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly, listening for any unusual noises or binding
  • Schedule wheel alignment immediately - do not drive at highway speeds until alignment is completed
  • After alignment, verify tie rod lock nuts are torqued to final specification of 92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
  • Test drive at low speeds in safe area to confirm steering response before normal operation

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