steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.9 h
Tools
13
Steps
14
Replacement of the inner tie rod end on the steering rack, requiring rack removal from the vehicle and marking for alignment reference.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Power steering fluid will drain when lines are disconnected. Have adequate drain pan capacity and contain spills immediately.
⚠This procedure requires a wheel alignment after completion. Vehicle handling will be affected until alignment is performed.
ℹ️Mark all components and measure tie rod positions before disassembly to establish baseline for reassembly.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 Nm range)Essential
Inner tie rod removal tool or large adjustable wrenchEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Wrench set (metric)Essential
Pickle fork or tie rod separatorEssential
Center punch or paint markerEssential
Drain panEssential
Line wrenches for hydraulic fittingsEssential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Pliers for cotter pin removalEssential
Thread sealant (Loctite 545 or equivalent)Essential
Parts
- Inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin for tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Power steering line O-rings × 4 — Use OEM specification
- Shop towels × 1 — Generic
Fluids
- Mopar ATF+4 — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise and support front of vehicle securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove front wheels on side being serviced
- Spray all tie rod threads and castle nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak
- Place drain pan under steering rack area to catch power steering fluid
- Turn steering wheel to center position and lock with steering wheel clamp or leave ignition in locked position
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for referenceBefore disassembly, measure and record the distance from the inner tie rod jam nut to the end of the outer tie rod threads. Use a center punch or paint marker to mark the position of the tie rod in relation to the outer tie rod end and jam nut. This reference will help maintain approximate toe setting during reassembly.
- 2Remove outer tie rod end from knuckleRemove cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut using pliers. Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud. Use a pickle fork or tie rod separator to separate the tie rod end ball stud from the steering knuckle. Avoid damaging the steering knuckle or ball joint boot.
- 3Remove outer tie rod from inner tie rodLoosen the tie rod lock nut (jam nut) connecting the outer and inner tie rod. Count and record the number of turns as you unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Remove the outer tie rod and jam nut completely and set aside.
- 4Disconnect power steering lines from rackUsing line wrenches to prevent damage to fittings, disconnect the power steering pressure and return lines from the steering rack. Position drain pan to catch fluid. Cap or plug the lines and rack ports immediately to prevent contamination and excessive fluid loss. Remove and discard the O-rings from the fittings.⚠Power steering fluid will drain rapidly once lines are disconnected. Ensure drain pan is properly positioned.
- 5Remove steering rack mounting boltsLocate the steering rack mounting bolts that secure the rack to the crossmember or frame. On 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins, the rack is typically mounted with four bolts. Remove all rack mounting bolts while supporting the rack weight.
- 6Lower and position steering rack for accessCarefully lower the steering rack assembly from the mounting position. You may need to disconnect the intermediate steering shaft if it prevents rack removal. Reposition the rack to provide clear access to the inner tie rod connection. The rack does not need to be completely removed from the vehicle, just repositioned for inner tie rod access.
- 7Remove inner tie rod end from rackUsing an inner tie rod removal tool or large adjustable wrench, unscrew the inner tie rod from the steering rack. The inner tie rod typically threads into the rack and may have a lock mechanism or staking. Clean the threads on the rack thoroughly with a wire brush once the old tie rod is removed. Inspect rack threads for damage.⚠Do not damage the steering rack bellows boot during inner tie rod removal. Protect or remove boot if necessary.
- 8Install new inner tie rod endApply thread sealant to the threads of the new inner tie rod end as specified by manufacturer. Thread the new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand until finger tight. Use the inner tie rod tool to tighten to proper specification. If the inner tie rod has a stake or lock mechanism, ensure it is properly engaged according to manufacturer specifications.
- 9Reinstall steering rack assemblyLift the steering rack back into position on the crossmember or frame. Align the mounting holes and install all rack mounting bolts. Torque the steering rack mounting bolts to specification in a cross pattern. Reconnect the intermediate steering shaft if it was disconnected.Torque specRack Bolts137 Nm (101 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect power steering linesInstall new O-rings on all power steering line fittings, lubricating them lightly with clean ATF+4. Connect the power steering pressure and return lines to the steering rack. Torque the line fittings to specification using line wrenches.ℹ️Always use new O-rings on power steering fittings to prevent leaks.Torque specPower Steering Line Fittings30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 11Install outer tie rod endThread the jam nut onto the new inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod. Use the reference marks and turn count from disassembly to position the outer tie rod approximately in the original location. Do not tighten the jam nut yet.
- 12Connect outer tie rod to steering knuckleInsert the tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Align the castle nut slots with the ball stud hole, tightening further if necessary (never loosen to align). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to secure.⚠Castle nut may be tightened beyond specified torque to align cotter pin hole, but never loosened.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 13Refill and bleed power steering systemFill the power steering reservoir with Mopar ATF+4 to the proper level. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times slowly to bleed air from the system. Check for leaks at all connection points. Add fluid as needed to maintain proper level. Continue bleeding until no air bubbles are visible and steering operates smoothly.
- 14Reinstall wheels and perform initial checkInstall the front wheels and torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Start the engine and verify power steering operation. Check for leaks around all connections. Test steering function at idle before driving.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- The tie rod lock nut (jam nut) should only be torqued to specification AFTER a professional wheel alignment is performed
- Verify all power steering line connections are tight and leak-free before driving
- Ensure the steering rack bellows boot is properly seated and not damaged
- Double-check that the cotter pin is properly installed and secured in the tie rod end castle nut
Verification
- Start engine and verify no power steering fluid leaks at rack or line connections
- Turn steering wheel lock-to-lock and verify smooth operation without binding or noise
- Check power steering fluid level and top off if needed with Mopar ATF+4
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering response
- SCHEDULE PROFESSIONAL WHEEL ALIGNMENT IMMEDIATELY - vehicle is not safe for normal driving until alignment is completed
- After alignment, verify tie rod lock nut is torqued to 92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
- Recheck all connections and fluid level after 100 miles of driving