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2014 RAM 2500

6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel4WDAUTOMATICdieselturbo
16 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs461Labor597Torque3877Fluid9DTC789Battery1Maintenance0Recalls16
steering

Tie Rod End - Outer

for 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
15
Steps
10

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins diesel and 4WD, including proper measurement for alignment reference and torque specifications.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
Do not hit the tie rod threads with a hammer as this will damage threads and prevent proper installation.
Improper tie rod installation will affect steering geometry and cause tire wear. Professional alignment is strongly recommended after this repair.
ℹ️This procedure affects wheel alignment. Mark and measure all positions carefully if alignment service is not immediately available.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (0-250 Nm range)Essential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Ball joint separator tool
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
19mm wrenchEssential
21mm socketEssential
Adjustable wrench or large channel locksEssential
Tape measure or thread counting gaugeEssential
Hammer
White paint marker or grease pencilEssential
Needle nose pliers for cotter pinEssential
Diagonal cuttersEssential

Parts

  • Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
  • Cotter pin × 1 — Appropriate size for castle nut
  • Thread locker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
  2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
  3. Loosen wheel lug nuts on the wheel requiring service while vehicle is on ground
  4. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
  5. Remove wheel completely
  6. Spray tie rod end castle nut, inner tie rod threads, and steering knuckle taper with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes

Procedure

  1. 1
    Mark and measure tie rod position
    Before loosening anything, use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of threads visible between the tie rod end and the jam nut. Measure and record the exact distance from the center of the outer tie rod ball stud to the inner tie rod body. These measurements are critical for maintaining approximate alignment.
  2. 2
    Remove cotter pin and castle nut
    Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle nose pliers, then pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut. If the pin is corroded, cut it with diagonal cutters. Using a 21mm socket, remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod ball stud. Keep the nut accessible as a reference for proper torque application later.
  3. 3
    Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
    Position the tie rod end separator tool between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end. Tighten the tool to apply pressure to the tapered joint. Tap the side of the steering knuckle boss with a hammer (not the stud threads) while maintaining pressure with the separator tool. The tie rod end should pop free from the taper. If using a pickle fork, be aware this may damage the tie rod boot if you plan to reuse the part.
    Do not hit the tie rod stud threads with a hammer. Strike only the knuckle casting around the taper.
  4. 4
    Loosen tie rod jam nut
    Locate the jam nut (lock nut) between the inner and outer tie rod sections. Using a 19mm wrench or adjustable wrench, loosen the jam nut but do not remove it completely. It should remain on the threads as a reference point. Note that this nut will be torqued after alignment is performed.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod Lock Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Remove outer tie rod end
    While holding the inner tie rod steady with channel locks or an adjustable wrench on the flats, unscrew the outer tie rod end by rotating it counterclockwise. Count the number of complete rotations required to remove it. Remove the jam nut from the inner tie rod threads and inspect the threads for damage or corrosion. Clean threads with a wire brush if needed.
  6. 6
    Prepare and install new outer tie rod end
    Thread the jam nut onto the new outer tie rod end first, with the thinner side facing toward the outer end. Compare the new tie rod end to the old one to verify correct application. Apply a small amount of medium-strength thread locker to the first few threads of the inner tie rod. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal, aligning with your reference marks. The measurement from ball stud center to inner tie rod body should match your original measurement.
  7. 7
    Install tie rod end to steering knuckle
    Clean the tapered hole in the steering knuckle with a wire brush. Insert the tie rod ball stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and tighten hand-tight first to draw the taper fully seated. Ensure the ball stud seats completely in the taper before final torquing.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  8. 8
    Torque castle nut and install cotter pin
    Using a torque wrench, tighten the castle nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Check that one of the castle nut slots aligns with the hole in the ball stud. If not aligned, tighten the nut further (do not loosen) until the next slot aligns with the hole - maximum additional tightening should not exceed 1/6 turn. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud hole. Bend the cotter pin legs over to secure, with one leg bent over the top of the nut and one leg wrapped around the stud.
    Torque spec
    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Snug jam nut (pre-alignment)
    Snug the jam nut against the outer tie rod end by hand or with light wrench pressure only. Do NOT torque the jam nut to specification at this time. The jam nut must remain adjustable until after a professional wheel alignment is performed. Mark the nut position with paint to verify it hasn't moved during driving to the alignment shop.
    ℹ️Final torque of 92 Nm (68 lb-ft) should only be applied to the jam nut after professional wheel alignment is completed.
  10. 10
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Snug all lug nuts in a star pattern but do not fully torque while vehicle is on jack stands. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Using a torque wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Final torque of Tie Rod Lock Nut to 92 Nm (68 lb-ft) must be performed AFTER professional wheel alignment
  2. Verify cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent backing out
  3. Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify steering function before returning to normal service

Verification

  • Confirm outer tie rod end ball stud moves smoothly without binding when steering wheel is turned lock to lock
  • Verify cotter pin is properly seated and bent to secure castle nut
  • Check that all torque specifications have been met for completed fasteners
  • Confirm no unusual noises or looseness when turning steering wheel with wheels on ground
  • Schedule professional wheel alignment service immediately - verify tie rod lock nut is torqued to 92 Nm (68 lb-ft) after alignment is complete
  • After alignment, test drive and verify vehicle tracks straight with no pulling and steering wheel is centered

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