Replacement of the front lower ball joint on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. On this generation the ball joint is integral to the lower control arm on most production runs, so the procedure assumes lower control arm replacement as the service path; verify your specific vehicle's arm style before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Lower control arm assembly with integrated ball joint (or standalone ball joint if serviceable on your build) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 2024 front lower control arm — verify by VIN
• New ball joint castle nut and cotter pin × 1 — OEM specification
• New steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — OEM single-use bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (Li-ion) is typically located under the front trunk floor or behind the right rear seat depending on build — refer to architecture notes and verify before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Lift the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points with rubber pucks to avoid damage to the rocker/battery pack edge. Support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
9. Inspect the new ball joint / control arm assembly against the old part before beginning disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the current routing of brake hose, ABS sensor wire, and any heat shielding around the lower control arm and steering knuckle. Note the orientation of the ball joint stud and any alignment marks on the subframe-to-control-arm bolts.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link
   Remove the sway bar end link from the lower control arm (or strut, depending on arm design) by holding the stud with an Allen key and removing the nut. Swing the link out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the steering knuckle
   Place a jack stand or transmission jack under the steering knuckle/hub assembly so that when the ball joint is separated, the knuckle does not hang on the brake hose, ABS wire, or halfshaft CV joint.
   ⚠Allowing the knuckle to drop unsupported can damage the outer CV joint, ABS sensor, or brake hose.
4. 4

   Remove ABS sensor and brake hose retainers (as needed)
   Unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor harness and any brake hose retainer tabs from the strut/knuckle bracket so the knuckle can be moved freely without stressing the lines. Do not disconnect the hydraulic brake hose.
5. 5

   Remove old cotter pin and ball joint nut
   Cut and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the ball joint castle nut. Discard the cotter pin; the nut should be replaced with new per the manufacturer-specified hardware kit.
6. 6

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Use a proper ball joint separator tool to break the taper between the ball joint stud and the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools if possible, as they will destroy the boot — acceptable here only because the joint is being replaced. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — strike only with brass or dead-blow hammer if persuasion needed.
7. 7

   Remove the lower control arm (if ball joint is integral)
   Mark the position of the inboard control arm bolts relative to the subframe for reference. Support the control arm, then remove the inboard mounting bolts. Lower the arm out of the subframe and remove from the vehicle. If your build has a serviceable standalone ball joint pressed into the arm, follow the manufacturer-specified press procedure instead.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Compare old to new
   Place the old and new control arm/ball joint side by side. Verify length, bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, and bolt hole spacing match exactly before installation.
9. 9

   Install new control arm / ball joint
   Position the new control arm into the subframe. Install the inboard bolts finger-tight only at this stage — final torque must be done with suspension at ride height. Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle and install the new castle nut, snugging it down.
10. 10

    Torque ball joint nut and install new cotter pin
    Torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. If the castellation does not align with the stud's cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
    ⚠️Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten to next slot.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reattach ABS sensor and brake hose
    Reseat the ABS sensor harness and brake hose into their factory clips and brackets. Verify nothing is pinched or stretched through full steering travel before lowering the vehicle.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires on ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment-rack pads).
3. With weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard control arm bolts to specification.
4. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Close hood/trunk and verify no warning chimes during initial wake-up.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, grasp the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero play at the ball joint.
• Rotate the steering lock-to-lock and listen for any clunks, binding, or grinding.
• Visually verify the new cotter pin is installed and bent, the pinch bolt (if disturbed) is new and torqued, and all harness/brake clips are seated.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and verifying steering returns to center.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately — front camber/caster/toe will have shifted.
• After test drive, recheck for fluid leaks or any new fault messages on the touchscreen.
• While the front end is apart is also a good time to remember Tesla's real-world service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, tire rotation every ~6,250 mi, and cabin filter every 2 years — none of which Tesla advertises but all of which are in their service documentation.

More procedures for this vehicle