Replacement of an upper ball joint on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD front suspension. The upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm assembly on Model 3 — the joint itself is not separately serviceable from Tesla, so this procedure replaces the upper control arm as a unit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (includes integrated upper ball joint) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model 3 front upper control arm — verify side (L/R)
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin — always replace
• Ball joint nut (castle nut) × 1 — OEM specification — replace if damaged or thread-locked
• Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — OEM-spec single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V/Li-ion battery is typically located under the rear floor or behind the right rear seat panel — refer to architecture notes and the in-vehicle service mode if available. Disconnect negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen if available, to disable air suspension self-leveling logic and ride-height-related faults (Model 3 is coil-sprung, but Service Mode also suppresses other alerts).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle using Tesla-approved puck adapters at the designated front jacking points. Support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Chock the rear wheels.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Inspect the upper control arm, ball joint boot, and surrounding suspension for additional damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the steering knuckle
   Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to support the assembly once the upper ball joint is released. This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stressing the brake hose, ABS line, or CV axle.
   ⚠Do NOT let the steering knuckle hang on the brake hose or ABS sensor wire — both will be damaged.
2. 2

   Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin
   Locate the cotter pin retaining the upper ball joint castle nut at the top of the steering knuckle. Straighten the legs of the cotter pin and pull it out with needle-nose pliers. Discard the cotter pin — it is single-use.
3. 3

   Loosen the ball joint castle nut
   Loosen the upper ball joint castle nut, but do NOT fully remove it yet. Back it off until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the ball joint stud threads. This protects the threads and keeps the joint captured while you break it loose from the knuckle taper.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Break the ball joint taper free
   Using a ball joint separator tool, press the upper ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle taper. Avoid the pickle fork unless replacing the joint anyway, as it will destroy the boot. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and discard. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum components — use a separator tool, not impact force.
5. 5

   Remove the upper control arm pivot bolts
   At the inboard end of the upper control arm, locate the pivot bolts/nuts attaching the arm to the body/subframe bracket. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric alignment hardware before removal — mark it with paint if present so the alignment shop has a starting reference. Remove the pivot bolts and lower the upper control arm out of the vehicle.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Compare old and new control arm
   Lay the removed upper control arm next to the new assembly. Confirm the ball joint stud orientation, bushing alignment, and any cam/washer hardware match. Transfer any reusable hardware that came on the original part if the new part did not include it (per the manufacturer-specified bracket and bushing kit).
7. 7

   Install the new upper control arm at the body
   Position the new upper control arm into the body/subframe bracket. Install the pivot bolts hand-tight only at this stage — final torque must be applied at ride height with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Seat the upper ball joint into the knuckle
   Guide the new upper ball joint stud into the tapered bore of the steering knuckle. Install a new castle nut and tighten by hand, then torque to specification. Align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole — only tighten further (never loosen) to align.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install a NEW cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and the ball joint stud hole. Bend the legs to fully retain the nut. Never reuse a cotter pin.
10. 10

    Verify pinch bolt and surrounding fasteners
    If the steering knuckle pinch bolt (clamping the lower ball joint or steering linkage) was disturbed during the procedure, install a new pinch bolt and torque to specification. Inspect the ABS sensor harness, brake hose, and any clips/retainers that were moved out of the way.
    Torque spec

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground so full weight rests on the suspension.
3. With the vehicle on the ground at ride height, final-torque the upper control arm pivot bolts to specification (Control Arm Bolts — 165 Nm / 122 lb-ft). This is critical — torquing bushings while unloaded will pre-stress them and shorten bushing life.
4. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern (Wheel Lug Nuts — 136 Nm / 100 lb-ft).
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative).
6. Exit Service Mode if it was enabled.
7. Power up the vehicle and verify there are no suspension, ABS, or stability-control fault messages on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Visually inspect: cotter pin installed and bent, no tools left in suspension, brake hose and ABS wiring routed correctly with no tension at full steering lock.
• Bounce-test the front corner — there should be no clunk, knock, or play from the upper joint.
• Steering wheel should self-center and not pull. ABS, traction, and stability lights should NOT be illuminated on the touchscreen.
• MANDATORY: Have a 4-wheel alignment performed. Model 3 camber and caster will be off after upper control arm replacement, and Tesla tire wear is severe when alignment is out of spec.
• Recheck Control Arm Bolt torque after the first 100-200 miles if accessible — these are critical fasteners.
• Reminder of related Tesla service intervals: tire rotation every ~6,250 mi, brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years. While the wheel is off is a convenient time to inspect brake pads and rotor condition.

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