suspension

Ball Joints - Upper and Lower

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Advanced

Time

3.0 h

Tools

Steps

Replace the upper and lower ball joints on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD front suspension. On this generation, the upper ball joint is integrated into the upper control arm (the arm is replaced as an assembly), while the lower ball joint is serviced as part of the lower control arm or as a pressed-in component depending on supplier — verify before ordering parts.

Warnings

⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. Although this job is suspension-only, orange HV cabling runs along the floor pan near the front subframe area.

⚠The Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension mounting points or the strut tower with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift only.

⚠Ball joint, control arm, and pinch bolt fasteners are CRITICAL safety items. Do not reuse single-use hardware. Final torque on control arm bolts must be done with the vehicle's full weight on the wheels to prevent bushing pre-load failure.

⚠Tesla front suspension geometry is extremely sensitive. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this work — driving without alignment will destroy tires within hundreds of miles given Model 3 weight and instant torque.

ℹ️Confirm whether your replacement lower ball joint is sold separately or only as part of a complete lower control arm. Many aftermarket suppliers integrate the joint into the arm.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weight (~4000+ lb)Essential

Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)Essential

Metric socket and wrench set (10mm–24mm)Essential

Hex/Allen key set (for sway bar end-link shaft hold)Essential

Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod pullerEssential

Cotter pin pliers / side cuttersEssential

Breaker barEssential

Pry bar

Wheel chocksEssential

Hydraulic press or ball joint press kit (only if pressing lower joint into arm)

Torque-angle gauge

Parts

Upper control arm assembly (includes upper ball joint) × 2 — manufacturer-specified front upper control arm for 2024 Model 3 AWD
Lower ball joint or lower control arm assembly × 2 — manufacturer-specified front lower ball joint/arm for 2024 Model 3 AWD
Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 4 — OEM-spec cotter pin
Steering knuckle pinch bolt × 2 — single-use pinch bolt — replace

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V (or 16V on applicable 2024 builds) low-voltage battery. On most Model 3, the 12V is behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ units use a lithium 12V/16V located under the front trunk or floor — verify location before disconnecting.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Enable Service Mode on the touchscreen before powering down (if available) so the air suspension/ride height logic and brake hold are inactive — Model 3 LR uses coil springs, but Service Mode still disables certain self-leveling and steering wake functions.
Loosen front lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise and support the front of the vehicle on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified jacking points (use the Tesla puck adapters to avoid crushing the rocker pinch weld).
Remove both front wheels.
Inspect the area around the lower ball joint and steering knuckle for orange HV cabling, brake lines, and wheel speed sensor wiring before proceeding.

Procedure

1
Disconnect sway bar end link
Locate the front sway bar end link at the strut. Hold the link's internal shaft with the appropriate Allen key and remove the upper nut. Swing the link out of the way. Repeat on the opposite side if doing both sides simultaneously.
Torque spec
Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
2
Disconnect wheel speed sensor and brake hose bracket
Unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor harness and any brake hose retaining brackets from the steering knuckle and upper control arm. Do not let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — support it with a bungee or wire hook from the coil spring.
⚠The Model 3 wheel speed sensor connector is fragile. Release the locking tab fully before pulling.
3
Remove brake caliper and rotor (optional but recommended)
Removing the caliper and rotor improves access to the steering knuckle and ball joints. Unbolt the caliper bracket from the knuckle, support the caliper, and slide the rotor off. Final torque on caliper bracket is to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4
Loosen steering knuckle pinch bolt (lower ball joint clamp)
On the Model 3, the lower ball joint stud is clamped into the lower portion of the steering knuckle by a pinch bolt rather than a castle nut. Remove and DISCARD the single-use pinch bolt. A new pinch bolt is required for reassembly.
⚠Pinch bolt is single-use — do not reinstall the original.
Torque spec
Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5
Separate upper ball joint from knuckle
Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, then loosen the nut several turns but leave it threaded on to catch the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator or tie-rod puller to break the taper free. Once free, fully remove the nut.
⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer — use a brass drift or a press-style separator.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6
Free the lower ball joint from the knuckle
With the pinch bolt removed, carefully pry the knuckle clamp open at its slot and work the knuckle off the lower ball joint stud. A pry bar between the knuckle base and the lower control arm — used gently — helps release it. Pivot the knuckle outward, taking care not to overextend the half-shaft inner CV joint.
⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang or pull out of the differential. Support it with wire if necessary.
7
Remove upper control arm (with integrated upper ball joint)
Unbolt the upper control arm at its inboard chassis mounting points. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cam markings before removal. Remove the arm assembly. The upper ball joint is replaced by replacing this arm as an assembly.
ℹ️Mark cam bolt positions if equipped — this preserves rough alignment but does NOT replace a post-job alignment.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8
Remove lower control arm or service lower ball joint
If your replacement is a complete lower arm: unbolt the lower control arm at its inboard chassis pivots and remove it. If your replacement is a pressable ball joint only: remove the arm anyway and press the old ball joint out using a hydraulic press or ball joint press kit, then press in the new joint to the manufacturer-specified depth.
⚠Inboard control arm bolts are CRITICAL fasteners. Note exact bolt direction — they are typically installed in a specific orientation for crash-load behavior.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9
Install new lower control arm / lower ball joint
Position the new lower control arm at the chassis pivot points and start both inboard bolts by hand. Snug — do NOT final torque yet. Final torque is applied at ride height.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
10
Install new upper control arm
Position the new upper control arm at its inboard chassis bracket. Install bolts in the same orientation as removal. Snug — do NOT final torque yet.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
11
Reattach steering knuckle to ball joints
Guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle clamp slot and seat fully. Install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to spec. Pivot the knuckle up onto the upper ball joint stud, install the upper ball joint castle nut, torque to spec, and align the slot to install a NEW cotter pin. If the slot does not align at torque, tighten further (never loosen) to align.
⚠️Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further. A loose ball joint nut can cause loss of steering control.
Torque spec
Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12
Reinstall brake components and sensor
Reinstall the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper. Re-clip the wheel speed sensor harness and brake hose brackets to the knuckle and upper arm. Caliper bracket and slide bolts: torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
13
Reconnect sway bar end link
Reattach the sway bar end link to the strut, holding the link's internal shaft with an Allen key and torquing the nut to spec.
Torque spec
Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

Reinstall both front wheels and snug the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded with full vehicle weight on the wheels.
With the vehicle at curb height, FINAL torque the upper and lower control arm inboard pivot bolts to spec. This is critical — torquing bushings while unloaded will cause premature bushing failure.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
Reconnect the 12V (or 16V) low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
Power on the vehicle and exit Service Mode if it was enabled.

Verification

Mandatory four-wheel alignment at a Tesla-capable shop before road use — Model 3 alignment specs are tight and tire wear is rapid if off.
After alignment, drive at low speed in an empty area and confirm steering is centered, no clunks over bumps, and no pulling.
Inspect the new cotter pins at the upper ball joint nuts — both legs should be bent and visible.
After 100 miles, re-inspect: confirm pinch bolts and control arm bolts are still at torque, and look for any grease weeping from the new ball joints.
Recalibrate steering angle sensor if the steering wheel is not perfectly centered after alignment — this may require a Tesla service center visit.
Unrelated reminder: while the front end is apart, this is a good time to inspect brake pad thickness and verify brake fluid age — Tesla recommends DOT brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.