Replacement of a front brake caliper on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. Procedure includes hydraulic line disconnection, caliper removal, installation of the replacement, and brake system bleeding with fresh DOT 4 fluid.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 Long Range — left or right side specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla front caliper — confirm side and Performance vs. Long Range fitment
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — OEM-spec copper sealing washers (size to match caliper inlet)
• Brake pads (recommended to replace as a pair if worn) × 1 — OEM-equivalent front pad set

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid (per Tesla architecture spec for Model 3) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/card away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On most 2024 Model 3 vehicles this is behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ units have a Li-ion 12V under the floor — confirm location before opening trim.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable suspension self-leveling logic and reduce false alerts. Note: 2024 Model 3 is coil-sprung, but Jack Mode still suppresses related warnings.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld jack points with a proper rubber puck. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap briefly, then re-cap loosely (or use a fluid level retainer) to prevent overflow when the piston is compressed.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and prepare caliper area
   Visually inspect the caliper, hose, bracket, and rotor for damage. Wire-brush around the banjo bolt, caliper guide bolts, and bracket bolts to remove debris before loosening any fasteners.
2. 2

   Pinch off or prepare to cap the brake hose
   If using a hose clamp, place it on the rubber section of the brake hose to minimize fluid loss. If not, have a catch container and capping plugs ready for the hose end and caliper inlet.
   ⚠Do not pinch a metal brake line — only the flexible rubber hose section.
3. 3

   Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper
   Position a catch pan beneath the caliper. Loosen and remove the banjo bolt securing the brake hose to the caliper. Discard the two copper crush washers — they must not be reused. Cap the hose end immediately to limit fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will damage paint. Cover surrounding body panels and rinse any drips with water.
4. 4

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   Remove the two caliper guide/mounting bolts that secure the caliper body to the caliper bracket. Slide the caliper off the rotor and brake pads. Support the caliper — do not let it hang by any line.
5. 5

   Remove brake pads (transfer or replace)
   Remove the front brake pads from the bracket along with any anti-rattle clips. Inspect pads for remaining material; if below the manufacturer minimum, replace them. Inspect the rotor surface for scoring, hot spots, or excessive lip.
6. 6

   (Optional) Remove caliper bracket if replacing
   If the new caliper comes as a complete assembly with bracket, remove the two large caliper bracket bolts from the steering knuckle. Otherwise leave the bracket in place. Clean threads thoroughly before reinstall.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torque-to-yield-style high-clamp fasteners — apply threadlocker and torque to the OEM specification listed.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Prepare the new caliper
   Compare the new caliper to the old one (piston size, bracket alignment, hose port orientation). Lubricate slide pins with the manufacturer-specified caliper grease. Confirm the bleeder screw is snug but not over-tightened.
8. 8

   Install brake pads and caliper bracket (if removed)
   If the bracket was removed, install with fresh threadlocker and torque to spec. Install brake pads into the bracket with anti-rattle clips properly seated.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install the new caliper onto the bracket
   Slide the new caliper over the pads and rotor. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper mounting/guide bolts and torque to specification.
10. 10

    Reconnect brake hose with NEW copper washers
    Place a new copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting (one between bolt head and fitting, one between fitting and caliper). Thread the banjo bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to specification. Verify the hose is not twisted and routes naturally without contacting suspension or wheel.
    ⚠NEVER reuse copper crush washers — a slow leak will cause pedal loss.
11. 11

    Bleed the brake system
    Top off the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Bleed the caliper at the bleeder screw using a vacuum or pressure bleeder until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Tesla service manual specifies a vehicle-specific bleed sequence — verify sequence with the service manual before bleeding additional corners. Torque the bleeder screw carefully — it is easy to strip.
    ⚠Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding — air ingestion will require a longer service-mode bleed using diagnostic equipment.
    ℹ️Some Tesla brake bleed procedures require ABS/iBooster activation via diagnostic software for a complete bleed. If pedal feel is poor after manual bleeding, the vehicle may need a Tesla-Toolbox-equipped shop to complete the bleed.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Verify reservoir level and cap
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid. Securely reinstall the cap. Wipe down any residue and rinse the area with water.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim that was removed for access.
4. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen if it was enabled.
5. Close the hood/frunk and ensure the brake reservoir cap is fully seated.

Verification

• With the vehicle still stationary, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until firm. The pedal must not be soft, sinking, or travel further than normal — if it does, re-bleed the system.
• Inspect the banjo fitting and bleeder screw for any wetness or seepage with the pedal held under firm pressure for 30 seconds.
• Power the vehicle on and check the touchscreen for any brake, ABS, or traction control alerts. Clear transient alerts with a short drive.
• Perform a low-speed roll test in a safe area: confirm the vehicle brakes evenly, does not pull to one side, and there is no grinding or rubbing.
• Perform several moderate stops from 30-40 mph to bed in pads (if replaced) and verify normal regen + friction blending behavior.
• Re-inspect the caliper and hose connection for leaks after the test drive.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years. Log this service date — if fluid is now older than 2 years, schedule a full flush.
• Re-torque lug nuts after approximately 50-100 miles of driving, per Tesla wheel service guidance.

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