Replacement of a single front brake rotor on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Straightforward mechanical job with no HV system involvement, but requires proper torque on safety-critical fasteners.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (single) × 1 — OEM-spec front rotor for 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD — confirm fitment with VIN
• Rotor set screw × 1 — OEM replacement set screw if corroded/damaged

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessed behind interior trim — refer to architecture notes; some 2024+ units use an under-floor lithium 12V. Confirm location for your specific build before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode or at minimum disable Sentry/Dashcam to avoid camera recording flags while working.
7. Loosen the front lug nuts a quarter turn while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack point using a proper jack pad to avoid damaging the rocker/battery enclosure. Support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel and set aside on its face to avoid scratching the finish.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect the corner
   Visually inspect the caliper, pads, hose, dust shield, and rotor. Note pad thickness — if pads are near minimum, plan to replace at the same time. Check for any leaking fluid at the caliper or hose fitting.
2. 2

   Compress the caliper piston
   Use a C-clamp or piston-retraction tool against the outer pad to gently push the piston back into the caliper bore. This relieves pressure on the rotor and makes caliper removal easier. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir under the frunk liner — fluid level will rise; do not let it overflow.
   ⚠If the reservoir is full, siphon a small amount of fluid out before retracting the piston to prevent overflow onto painted surfaces.
3. 3

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Remove the two slide pin bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. Slide the caliper off the rotor and support it with a hanger or bungee — do not let it dangle from the brake hose. Inspect slide pin boots for tears.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are torqued tightly and may require a breaker bar. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are very tight from factory. Use a properly fitting socket — rounding these heads makes for a difficult repair.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rotor set screw
   Remove the small Torx set screw that retains the rotor to the hub. The head is often filled with debris — clean it out fully before applying tool engagement to avoid stripping. If seized, apply penetrating oil and use an impact driver.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If corroded to the hub, thread two M8 bolts into the threaded jacking holes in the rotor face and tighten alternately to push the rotor off. Do NOT strike the rotor face or hub with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow only if necessary.
   ⚠Avoid striking the hub or wheel speed sensor area. Damaging the sensor or tone ring will trigger ABS/traction-control faults requiring diagnosis.
7. 7

   Clean hub mating surface
   Wire-brush the hub face thoroughly until bare metal is visible. Any rust or debris between hub and rotor causes lateral runout and brake judder. Apply a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub center and face — keep it off the wheel stud threads and rotor friction surface.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner to remove the protective coating. Slide the rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole. Install the set screw and torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the bracket onto the knuckle and torque the front caliper bracket bolts to specification. Verify both bolts are seated and torqued — these are safety-critical.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper
    Verify pads are seated correctly in the bracket abutments and anti-rattle clips are in place. Slide the caliper over the rotor onto the bracket. Apply silicone brake grease to slide pins if disturbed, and a small amount of threadlocker on the slide pin bolts per service manual guidance. Torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the wheel and install lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Re-check torque after the vehicle is fully on the ground.
    ⚠Tesla wheels are aluminum — do not use an impact wrench for final torque. Always finish with a calibrated torque wrench in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
2. With the vehicle on the ground and ignition on (brake-ready), pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it becomes firm. This seats the caliper piston against the new pads — DO NOT skip this step or the first stop will have no brakes.
3. Top up the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with DOT 4 brake fluid (per Tesla specification — note: Model 3 uses DOT 4, not DOT 3 despite some general databases).
4. Exit Service Mode and re-enable Sentry/Dashcam if previously disabled.
5. Clear any ABS or stability control faults that may have set during the procedure (none should set from a rotor-only job, but verify on the touchscreen).

Verification

• Before driving: with vehicle stationary, press brake pedal firmly — pedal should feel solid and high, not soft or sinking.
• Roll the vehicle slowly in a safe area and apply brakes gently to confirm engagement and no grinding/scraping.
• Bed-in the new rotor: perform 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 35 mph down to 5 mph without coming to a complete stop, then allow the brakes to cool for several minutes of light driving. This transfers an even pad layer to the new rotor.
• After bed-in, check for vibration through the steering wheel under braking — any judder may indicate hub contamination during install or excessive runout.
• Re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles — Tesla wheels are known to settle.
• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or brake warning lights on the touchscreen.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage — log this date if not recently performed.

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