Replace both front brake rotors on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Front rotors typically wear faster than rears due to regenerative braking biasing wear forward, and pad replacement is commonly done at the same time.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (vented) × 2 — Model 3 Long Range front rotor — match OEM diameter/thickness; do not substitute Performance/Track rotors
• Front brake pad set (recommended to replace with rotors) × 1 — OEM-equivalent Model 3 Long Range front pad set
• Rotor set screws × 2 — Replace if corroded/damaged

Fluids

• Brake parts cleaner (consumable)
• Silicone brake grease (slide pins)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Chock the rear wheels — once 12V is disconnected, the electric parking brake cannot be commanded.
4. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery per the architecture notes for this 2024 Model 3 (typically accessed via the front trunk area on later Model 3; verify location for your specific build).
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Place the Model 3 in 'Jack Mode' via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if you want to disable auto-leveling/suspension messages (N/A on coil-only, but disables drive ready). Alternatively, simply ensure the car is off and locked.
8. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground (21mm).
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified rocker lift points using a puck adapter, and support with jack stands.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheels
   Fully remove the lug nuts and pull both front wheels. Set them rotor-side down to protect the finish. Inspect lug studs for thread damage while wheels are off.
2. 2

   Inspect and prepare caliper
   Inspect the caliper, slide pins, dust boots, and flexible brake hose for damage or weeping. Note routing of any pad wear sensor wiring (if equipped) before disturbing the caliper.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the flexible brake hose when moving the caliper.
3. 3

   Compress caliper piston
   Before unbolting, gently compress the caliper piston using a C-clamp or piston spreader against an old pad. This makes reinstallation over a new, thicker rotor easier. Monitor the master cylinder reservoir level — fluid will rise as the piston retracts; remove fluid if needed to prevent overflow.
   ℹ️Brake fluid is hygroscopic and damages paint. Catch any overflow immediately.
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts holding the caliper body to the bracket. Slide the caliper off the bracket and support it with a hanger or bungee from the suspension — do NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove brake pads
   Remove the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation and location of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reuse or replacement.
6. 6

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper bracket bolts securing the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are typically high-torque and may require a breaker bar. Remove the bracket from the knuckle.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are factory-installed with threadlocker; expect significant breakaway torque.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove rotor set screw and rotor
   Remove the rotor retaining set screw (typically T30 Torx). If seized, apply penetrating oil and use a properly seated bit to avoid stripping. Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If the rotor is corroded to the hub, thread a bolt into one of the threaded jacking holes (if present) and tighten gradually to free it. Do NOT strike the rotor face with a steel hammer near the wheel speed sensor or knuckle.
   ⚠Avoid hammering on the hub flange or knuckle — aluminum components can be damaged.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Clean hub mating surface
   Wire-brush the hub face thoroughly to remove all rust and scale. Any rust under the new rotor will cause runout and brake pulsation. Wipe clean with brake parts cleaner. Apply only a very thin film of anti-seize to the hub face if desired — keep it off the wheel studs and rotor friction surface.
9. 9

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove shipping oil. Place the rotor onto the hub, align the set screw hole, and install the rotor set screw.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the bracket onto the knuckle and torque the bolts to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install pads and slide pins
    Install the new (or inspected) brake pads into the bracket with any anti-rattle clips. Inspect the slide pins — clean them and apply fresh silicone brake grease to the pin shafts. Reseat the dust boots fully.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper
    Position the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Install the slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Confirm the dust boots are not pinched and the caliper moves freely on the slides.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat on opposite side
    Repeat the entire procedure on the other front corner. Front rotors should always be replaced as a pair.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount the front wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until tires just contact the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification. Re-check torque after the first short drive.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm the master cylinder reservoir is between MIN and MAX with the correct DOT 4 brake fluid (per Tesla's spec for Model 3 — do not use DOT 3).
2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
3. With the vehicle on the ground and your foot on the brake, pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it becomes firm. The first pump WILL go to the floor — this is normal after pushing pistons back. Do not move the vehicle until the pedal is firm.
4. Wake the vehicle and check the touchscreen for any brake-system, ABS, or traction-control faults. Clear/verify as needed.
5. Bed in the new pads/rotors per the pad manufacturer's procedure (typically a series of moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing cooling between sets). Note: aggressive bed-in is harder on a Model 3 because regen does most of the slowing — you may need to use Hold mode or shift to a low-regen setting to load the friction brakes.

Verification

• Pedal feel is firm and high — no sponginess (sponginess indicates air; bleed system if present).
• No brake pulsation under moderate braking from 50 mph (indicates rotor runout from a dirty hub face).
• No grinding or scraping after 5-10 stops (post bed-in).
• No ABS, stability control, or brake fault messages on the touchscreen.
• Visually confirm no fluid weeping at the caliper or hose fitting after a test drive.
• After ~50 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid is older than that, schedule a flush separately.

More procedures for this vehicle