Rebuild the front brake calipers on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD by disassembling the caliper, replacing seals/boots/pistons as needed, and reinstalling with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. This is a hydraulic-only job — no HV systems are touched, but standard Tesla 12V isolation is still required.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front caliper rebuild kit (seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 2 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front caliper seal/boot kit — confirm with VIN
• Caliper pistons (if scored or corroded) × 2 — OEM-spec front caliper piston
• Caliper slide pin boots × 2 — OEM-spec front slide pin boot kit
• Copper crush washers for brake hose banjo (if equipped) × 4 — Match OEM size
• Brake pads (recommended while caliper is open) × 1 — OEM or equivalent Model 3 front pad set

Fluids

• DOT 4 Brake Fluid (per Tesla Model 3 specification) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, shift to P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically the Li-ion 12V/16V unit — refer to the architecture notes and Tesla Service Manual for exact location on your VIN (some 2024 units are under-floor, others behind the right rear seat panel).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure whether a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
5. Enable Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting, to disable air suspension self-leveling routines and pedestrian warning systems (note: Model 3 has coil springs, but Jack Mode still suppresses ride-height and accelerometer alerts).
6. Loosen front lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheels are on the ground.
7. Lift the front of the vehicle at Tesla-approved jack points using rubber pucks, support on jack stands, and remove both front wheels.
8. Place a drain pan beneath the work area and have brake cleaner and rags ready.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the caliper, brake hose routing, pad wear sensor wiring (if equipped), and slide pin orientation before disassembly. Note any leakage at the piston boot, bleeder, or hose fitting — this informs which seals/components must be replaced.
2. 2

   Clamp the brake hose
   Apply a brake hose clamp to the flexible front brake hose to minimize fluid loss when the caliper is disconnected. Do not over-tighten the clamp — crushing a reinforced hose can damage the inner liner.
3. 3

   Disconnect the brake line
   Using a line/flare wrench, loosen the brake line fitting at the caliper. Cap the line immediately to prevent contamination and excess fluid loss. If the caliper uses a banjo bolt, discard the copper crush washers — they are single-use.
   ⚠Use a line wrench, not an open-end wrench, to avoid rounding the fitting.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   Remove the two caliper slide/guide bolts and lift the caliper body off the bracket. Set the caliper on a clean bench. If you only need to service the caliper body (not the bracket), the bracket can remain on the knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the caliper bracket (if servicing bracket/rotor)
   If the rebuild requires removing the bracket from the steering knuckle, remove the two front caliper bracket bolts. These are critical fasteners — inspect threads for damage and clean thoroughly before reinstall.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torque-critical. If reused, ensure threads are clean and apply fresh threadlocker per the manufacturer-specified bracket procedure.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove pads and slide pins
   Remove the brake pads, anti-rattle clips, and slide pins from the bracket. Inspect slide pins for corrosion, scoring, or torn boots. Clean pins thoroughly; replace boots if cracked.
7. 7

   Extract the caliper piston(s)
   With the caliper held in a padded vise or supported on a bench, place a wood block in front of the piston(s) as a stop. Use low-pressure compressed air at the fluid inlet port to gently walk the piston out. For dual-piston designs, extract pistons sequentially using shims to control the second piston. Catch residual fluid in a pan.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of the piston path. Use minimum air pressure necessary.
8. 8

   Remove old seals and clean the bore
   Using a non-marring seal pick, remove the dust boot and the square-cut piston seal from the caliper bore groove. Do not scratch the bore. Clean the caliper body, piston, and all passages with fresh brake cleaner. Inspect the bore for pitting or corrosion — if pitted, the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt. Inspect the piston for scoring, plating wear, or corrosion; replace if damaged.
   ⚠Do not use abrasives or wire brushes inside the caliper bore — surface damage will cause the new seal to leak.
9. 9

   Install new seals and reassemble piston
   Lubricate the new piston seal with clean DOT 4 brake fluid and seat it into the bore groove. Install the new dust boot per the rebuild kit instructions (some seat first into the caliper, then over the piston; others install on the piston first). Coat the piston with clean DOT 4 fluid and gently press it straight into the bore by hand until fully seated. Confirm the dust boot is engaged in both grooves.
10. 10

    Service slide pins and bracket
    Apply silicone brake grease to the slide pins and reinstall them with fresh boots into the bracket. Reinstall pad hardware (anti-rattle clips, shims) in original orientation. Install new or inspected pads.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper bracket (if removed)
    If the bracket was removed, clean the knuckle mating surface and bolt threads. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the front caliper bracket bolts and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper onto bracket
    Slide the caliper over the pads onto the bracket. Apply medium-strength threadlocker (if specified by the rebuild kit) and silicone brake grease to slide pin threads as appropriate. Install the slide/guide bolts and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect the brake line
    Reattach the brake line fitting (with new copper crush washers if banjo-style). Hand-start threads to avoid cross-threading, then torque the line fitting using a line wrench.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Bleed the front brake circuit
    Top up the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Bleed each front caliper at the bleeder screw using a vacuum or pressure bleeder until clean, bubble-free fluid is observed. Tesla recommends a scan-tool-assisted bleed sequence (cycling the ABS/iBooster) for a complete bleed — perform per the Tesla Service Manual procedure for full pedal feel. Do not exceed the bleeder torque spec.
    ⚠If the master cylinder runs dry during bleeding, air will enter the iBooster/ABS unit and a full Tesla-procedure bleed will be required to recover pedal.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Repeat for the opposite front caliper
    Perform the identical rebuild on the opposite front caliper. Always rebuild front calipers as a pair to maintain even braking response.

Reassembly

1. Confirm both calipers are fully bled and the reservoir is filled to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
2. Reinstall front wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
3. Lower vehicle to the ground.
4. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
7. With the vehicle still stationary, press the brake pedal firmly 10-15 times to seat the pads against the rotors and verify a firm pedal.

Verification

• Pedal feel: brake pedal must be firm and high — any sponginess indicates trapped air; re-bleed.
• Inspect all fittings, bleeders, and piston dust boots for any sign of weeping fluid after pumping the pedal and after a short test drive.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake-related alerts (ABS, iBooster, EPB faults). If alerts persist, a Tesla-procedure ABS bleed via service tool may be required.
• Perform a low-speed brake-in: 10-15 moderate stops from ~30 mph with cool-down between, to bed in pads (do not come to a complete stop on the final stops to avoid pad imprinting).
• Verify even brake torque side-to-side — pulling indicates a sticking piston or contaminated pad and requires re-inspection.
• Log the brake fluid service date — Tesla recommends DOT 4 brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle