Replace the front lower control arm bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. On this chassis the bushings are pressed into the forged aluminum lower control arm; in most cases Tesla service replaces the entire control arm assembly rather than pressing individual bushings, as the arm is not designed for field bushing replacement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm bushing(s) — manufacturer-specified × 2 — Tesla front lower control arm bushing for 2024 Model 3 (Highland) — verify against VIN; many shops replace the complete control arm assembly
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin (do not reuse)
• Front lower control arm (alternative if bushing is not separately serviced) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front lower control arm assembly

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3 the low-voltage battery is typically a lithium unit; access location varies — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla Service Manual for your specific build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle into Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting — this disables the adaptive ride/load behavior. Note: 2024 Model 3 LR is coil-sprung, but Jack Mode also suppresses certain alerts.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Chock the rear wheels.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack pads using a hockey-puck style jack pad adapter. Support on rated jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
11. Verify the new bushing(s) or replacement control arm matches the OEM part before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the front lower control arm, bushings, ball joint boot, sway bar link, and strut. Photograph the orientation of the control arm and any alignment cam markings on the inner mounting bolts before disturbing them. Note the position of any eccentric/cam washers — these set alignment and must be marked.
   ⚠If alignment cams are present, scribe a reference line across the cam, bolt head, and subframe before loosening.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut/control arm
   Hold the sway bar link stud with an Allen key (hex socket on the stud end) while loosening the nut with a wrench. Separate the link from its attachment point to free the suspension for articulation.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint stud and discard. Loosen but do not fully remove the ball joint nut — back it off until it sits flush with the end of the threads to protect the threads during separation. Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, remove the nut completely and lower the ball joint out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle to free the ball joint. Use a proper separator tool — pickle forks will tear the boot.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a transmission jack or floor jack with a wide pad under the lower control arm to control its motion when the inner pivot bolts are removed. The arm is heavy and will drop under its own weight.
5. 5

   Remove the inner control arm pivot bolts
   Confirm any alignment cam reference marks are clearly scribed. Remove the inner control arm-to-subframe bolts. Retain hardware and inspect for damage, corrosion, or stretch — replace if questionable. Lower the control arm and remove from the vehicle.
   ⚠Do not pry against the HV battery enclosure or subframe coatings. Aluminum subframe sections are easily gouged.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Replace the bushing(s) — or replace the control arm
   If the manufacturer supplies a serviceable bushing for this arm: support the control arm in a press, use the correct bushing removal/install sleeves, and press the old bushing out, observing the orientation of any voided/keyed bushing. Press the new bushing in to the OEM-specified depth and clock orientation. If the bushing is not separately serviced on this 2024 Model 3 control arm — which is common on this platform — install a complete OEM replacement control arm assembly instead.
   ⚠Voided (directional) bushings must be installed in the correct rotational orientation or ride/handling will be wrong and bushing life will be shortened.
   ⚠Never heat aluminum control arms to remove a bushing — heat will permanently weaken the arm.
7. 7

   Reinstall the control arm to the subframe
   Position the control arm at the inner subframe mount(s). Install the inner pivot bolts and any alignment cams in their original orientation (matching your scribed marks). Hand-tighten only at this stage — do NOT final-torque yet.
   ⚠Final torque on the inner control arm bolts must be applied with the vehicle at ride height. Tightening now will pre-load the bushing.
8. 8

   Reconnect the lower ball joint
   Lift the control arm and seat the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse the old one. If the castellation does not align, tighten further (never loosen) to align with the cotter pin hole.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the sway bar end link
   Reattach the sway bar link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and start all lug nuts by hand. Snug them in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (some weight on the suspension).
11. 11

    Final-torque the inner control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels (lower fully off jack stands, or use drive-on ramps), final-torque the inner control arm pivot bolts to specification. This is critical for bushing service life.
    ⚠Skipping the loaded-torque step is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on this platform.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Torque lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Close the hood/frunk and any service panels disturbed.
3. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen (it will normally clear automatically once the vehicle is driven).
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary (front wheels on the ground) to confirm no binding or contact.
5. Take the vehicle for a low-speed test drive in a safe area, listening for clunks, knocks, or pulling.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension warnings or chassis-related alerts on the touchscreen.
• Check that the steering wheel is centered when driving straight. If off-center or the vehicle pulls, an alignment is required (and is recommended after any control arm service on Model 3).
• Re-check ball joint cotter pin is fully seated and bent over.
• After 100-200 miles, re-inspect the inner control arm bolts for proper torque and the new bushing for correct seating.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment at a Tesla-experienced shop — this job changes camber/caster and Tesla recommends alignment after lower control arm service.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good time to verify Tesla's other interval items: brake fluid (every 2 years, DOT 4 on Model 3 — note: the verified DB list shows DOT 3 for some entries; consult the door-jamb/owner literature and use the fluid specified for your VIN), cabin filter (every 2 years), drive unit fluid (initial 12,500 mi then 25,000-50,000 mi), and tire rotation (every ~6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle