Replace the front upper control arm bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. On this generation, the front upper control arm is a forged aluminum link with two pressed-in bushings; most independent shops replace the entire control arm assembly rather than press individual bushings, as Tesla supplies the upper arm as a complete unit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front upper control arm bushing(s) — or complete upper control arm assembly if bushings are not serviced separately × 2 — manufacturer-specified front upper control arm / bushing for 2024 Model 3 AWD
• Ball joint cotter pin (new) × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin sized to ball joint stud
• Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (replace if marked single-use by manufacturer) × 2 — OEM-spec, refer to Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even though this is a non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) battery is located behind the right rear seat back panel or, on some 2024+ builds, under the floor — refer to the architecture notes and confirm before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved lift points and pucks to avoid damage to the floor-mounted HV pack. Support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
9. Have the new control arm or bushings, a new cotter pin, and replacement fasteners (per OEM spec) on hand before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   With the wheel removed, inspect the front upper control arm for cracking (especially around the bushing ears), torn bushing rubber, and ball joint play. Photograph the orientation of the arm and any alignment cam markings on the inner mounts so they can be returned close to original on reassembly.
2. 2

   Support the lower suspension
   Place a jack under the lower control arm / steering knuckle area to support the weight of the suspension. This prevents the strut/coil from extending fully when the upper arm is released and avoids damage to the CV axle and brake hose.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring.
3. 3

   Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link blocks access to the upper arm or strut, remove the upper end link nut. Hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key while loosening the nut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle
   Remove and discard the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud, then loosen (do not fully remove) the ball joint nut. Use a screw-type ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle. Do NOT use an air hammer on the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — pickle forks can damage the boot and the casting. Prefer a screw-type separator.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the inner pivot bolts
   Mark the position of any alignment cams or eccentric washers on the inner pivot bolts. Support the arm, then remove the inner pivot bolts/nuts that secure the upper control arm to the body/frame bracket. Lower the arm out of the vehicle.
   ℹ️If the OEM fasteners are marked single-use (TTY or pre-applied threadlocker), replace them. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual.
6. 6

   Service the bushings (or replace the arm)
   If Tesla supplies the upper control arm as a complete assembly for this VIN, install the new arm and skip to reassembly. If serviceable bushings are available, use a hydraulic press with the manufacturer-specified bushing driver to remove the old bushings and install the new ones, ensuring correct orientation of any voided/clocked bushings. Do not heat the aluminum arm with a torch.
   ⚠Cracking the forged aluminum arm during pressing will scrap the part. If unsure, replace the complete arm.
7. 7

   Reinstall the upper control arm to the body
   Position the arm in the body bracket, aligning any cam marks made during removal. Install the inner pivot bolts/nuts hand-tight only. Final torque is applied later with the suspension at ride height.
8. 8

   Reconnect the upper ball joint to the knuckle
   Insert the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reattach the sway bar end link (if disconnected)
   Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the internal hex with an Allen key. Torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the full weight is on the wheels at normal ride height.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final-torque the inner pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels (or the suspension loaded to simulate ride height on a drive-on lift), final-torque the upper control arm inner pivot bolts. This is critical — torquing the bushings while the suspension is drooping will preload them and cause early failure.
    ⚠If a torque-angle stage is specified by the manufacturer in addition to the seating torque, apply it per the Tesla Service Manual.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any trim removed for access.
2. Wake the vehicle, allow systems to fully boot, and clear any chassis-related alerts that appeared due to the 12V disconnect.
3. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary on a low-friction surface or alignment rack to allow the EPS to recalibrate.

Verification

• Confirm the new cotter pin is fully seated in the ball joint nut and the legs are bent over.
• Re-check inner pivot bolt torque with the suspension at ride height — this is the most common DIY error on this job.
• Inspect for any interference between the new arm/bushing and the strut, body, or brake hose through full steering travel.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment. Front upper control arm replacement on Model 3 will change camber and caster — the vehicle MUST NOT be returned to service without alignment.
• Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and during turn-in. Then verify highway tracking.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, take advantage of the lift time to inspect the cabin air filter (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends every 2 years regardless of mileage).

More procedures for this vehicle