Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. The Model 3 uses a forged aluminum front lower control arm with a pressed/bolted ball joint to the steering knuckle and two large through-bolts to the front subframe.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (Model 3, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla front LCA — confirm left/right by VIN
• Ball Joint Castle Nut Cotter Pin × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Control Arm-to-Subframe Bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual for single-use designation

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/Li-ion on applicable 2024 builds) low-voltage battery. Location varies — typically behind the right rear seat back panel, but some 2024 Model 3 builds use a lithium 12V under the floor. Confirm location for your VIN before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle into Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable air-suspension self-leveling logic and ride-height adjustments — Model 3 is coil-only but Jack Mode also locks out drive logic.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle ONLY at the four manufacturer-designated lift points using approved puck adapters. Support with rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Note the side (LH/RH) — control arms are not interchangeable side-to-side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front aero/underbody shield as needed
   Remove the plastic fasteners and any T-handle/Torx screws securing the front section of the underbody aero panel on the affected side to access the rear LCA-to-subframe bolt. Set hardware aside in order — Model 3 panels use mixed plastic rivets and threaded fasteners that are not interchangeable.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the lower control arm. Hold the ball stud with an Allen key to prevent rotation, then remove the nut. Swing the link upward and out of the way. Inspect the link bushing/boot — if torn, plan to replace.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and catch the knuckle. Using a ball joint separator (NOT a pickle fork if you intend to reuse the boot — but the arm is being replaced, so a pickle fork is acceptable on the arm side), break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the knuckle clear of the ball stud. Support the knuckle/hub with a bungee or stand — DO NOT let it hang on the brake hose, ABS line, or halfshaft (CV joint).
   ⚠Do not let the front halfshaft (drive axle) over-extend on a Dual Motor — pulling the inner CV out of the drive unit can damage the seal.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Mark and remove control arm-to-subframe bolts
   Note the orientation of the front (vertical) and rear (horizontal/cam-style if equipped) LCA mounting bolts. Support the control arm with a transmission jack or jack stand. Remove the rear bushing through-bolt first, then the front bushing through-bolt. Bolts are long and may require shifting/wiggling the arm to clear the subframe pockets.
   ⚠Aluminum subframe threads damage easily. Do not cross-thread on reinstallation. If a bolt does not start by hand, stop and inspect.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm
   Lower the arm and maneuver it out from under the vehicle. Compare old to new: bushing orientation, ball joint angle, and any brake/ABS clip tabs must match. Transfer any reusable hardware/clips per Tesla Service Manual.
6. 6

   Install new lower control arm — finger tight only
   Position the new arm into the subframe pockets. Install both subframe through-bolts hand-tight only — do NOT torque yet. The bushings must be clamped at ride height to avoid pre-loading the rubber.
7. 7

   Reconnect ball joint to steering knuckle
   Lift the knuckle onto the new ball joint stud. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the slot does not align with the cotter pin hole at spec, tighten further (never loosen) until aligned. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per Tesla Service Manual.
   ⚠Always tighten further to align the cotter pin hole — never back off.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reattach sway bar end link
   Reinstall the sway bar end link to the control arm. Hold the stud with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
   Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded at ride height (tire on ground or on alignment ramps/scale plates). This is required before final torque of the control arm bolts.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final torque control arm subframe bolts at ride height
    With full vehicle weight on the suspension, torque both control arm-to-subframe bolts to specification. This step is CRITICAL — torquing while drooped will damage the bushings within months.
    ⚠️Skipping the ride-height torque step will cause premature bushing failure and unsafe handling.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Final wheel torque
    Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the underbody aero panel using original fasteners. Missing or improperly seated aero panels reduce range and can flap loose at highway speed.
2. Reconnect the 12V/Li-ion low-voltage battery in the reverse order it was disconnected.
3. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen once the vehicle is back on the ground.
4. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock and inspect for any clearance issues between the new arm and the halfshaft, brake hose, or ABS sensor lead.

Verification

• Visually confirm the new cotter pin is installed and bent in the ball joint castle nut.
• Confirm both control arm subframe bolts were final-torqued at ride height (not while drooped).
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps or during steering input.
• An alignment is REQUIRED — front camber and toe will be out of spec. Schedule a four-wheel alignment at a shop equipped for Tesla Model 3 specs before any extended driving.
• After ~100 miles, re-inspect the ball joint cotter pin and visually check the subframe bolts for any witness-mark movement.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to inspect the opposite-side LCA, both sway bar end links, tie rod ends, and to verify tire rotation interval (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi due to instant torque and curb weight). If brake fluid is approaching its 2-year service interval, plan that service as well.

More procedures for this vehicle