Lower Control Arm - Rear

Replacement of a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. This is a multi-link rear suspension; the lower control arm (often called the 'lower fore link' or lateral lower link) supports ride height load and must be final-torqued at ride height to prevent bushing pre-load damage.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear Lower Control Arm (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear lower control arm — confirm by VIN
• Control arm fasteners (inspect; replace if specified as single-use) × 1 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual for single-use bolt callouts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery may be the lithium unit — refer to architecture notes for location and disconnect per Tesla Service Manual procedure.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Service Mode is NOT used here — proceed only after 12V is disconnected. (If your workflow requires Service Mode, that requires Tesla Toolbox access — outside this procedure.)
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle on Tesla-approved lift points using pucks; secure with jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
10. Photograph the suspension geometry and any eccentric/cam alignment bolts before disassembly to aid reassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect work area
   Visually inspect the rear subframe, brake hose, parking brake cable, ABS/wheel speed sensor harness, and any HV cabling routing in the rear area. Confirm no orange cabling is in the immediate work zone of the lower control arm. If any orange cable appears damaged or in the way, STOP.
   ⚠️If orange cabling is encountered or damaged, do not proceed.
2. 2

   Support the knuckle
   Place a floor jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle/hub assembly to support it. This prevents the half-shaft, brake hose, and remaining links from being stressed when the lower control arm is removed.
3. 3

   Mark alignment cam (if equipped)
   If the inboard control arm bolt uses an eccentric/cam washer for toe adjustment, paint-mark the cam position relative to the subframe before loosening so it can be returned to a near-baseline setting. Final alignment must still be performed.
4. 4

   Disconnect any attached components
   If the sway bar end link, parking brake cable bracket, or wheel speed sensor harness is routed through or attached to the lower control arm, release them per the manufacturer-specified routing. Do not let any component hang by its wiring or hose.
5. 5

   Loosen outboard fastener
   Loosen but do not remove the outboard bolt that secures the lower control arm to the rear knuckle. Counter-hold as needed to prevent the bolt from spinning in the bushing sleeve.
6. 6

   Loosen inboard fastener
   Loosen but do not fully remove the inboard bolt at the rear subframe. Confirm the knuckle is still well-supported on the floor jack.
7. 7

   Remove fasteners and arm
   Fully remove both bolts. Carefully maneuver the lower control arm out of the subframe pocket and knuckle. If the bushing sleeves are seized to the bolts, apply penetrating oil and use a soft drift — do not strike aluminum components with a steel hammer.
8. 8

   Compare old and new arm
   Place the old and new control arms side by side. Confirm length, bushing orientation, and any 'TOP' or directional markings match. A mismatched arm will cause alignment to be unobtainable.
9. 9

   Install new control arm — hand-tight
   Position the new arm in the subframe pocket and into the knuckle. Install both bolts (and any cam washers in their marked orientation). Snug but DO NOT final-torque yet — the bushings must be torqued at ride height.
10. 10

    Reattach ancillary components
    Reattach any sensor harness, parking brake cable bracket, or sway bar link components that were removed for access, using the manufacturer-specified routing and torque. For the sway bar link nut, hold the stud with an Allen key while torquing.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel
    Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts, then snug in a star pattern. Final torque is performed with the vehicle weight on the wheels.
12. 12

    Lower vehicle to ride height
    Lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded by vehicle weight. Either set the wheels on the ground, or use drive-on ramps / a wheel-engaging lift so the suspension is at normal ride height. This is mandatory before final-torquing the control arm bolts.
13. 13

    Final torque control arm bolts at ride height
    With the suspension loaded at ride height, final-torque BOTH the inboard and outboard control arm bolts to the verified specification. This step is critical — torquing while the suspension hangs will damage the bushings.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final torque lug nuts
    Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification. Re-check after a short test drive.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm all removed brackets, harnesses, and clips are reattached in their original routing.
2. Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery per Tesla procedure.
3. Close all doors, allow the vehicle to wake, and clear any chassis fault messages on the touchscreen.
4. Perform a low-speed roll test in a safe area to confirm no clunks, binding, or ABS/stability faults.
5. Schedule a four-wheel alignment — required after any rear control arm replacement on Model 3.

Verification

• No suspension or stability control warnings on the touchscreen after a short drive cycle.
• No clunks, knocks, or steering pull on a smooth-road test drive at 25–45 mph.
• Visually re-check both control arm bolts after the test drive — confirm paint marks (if applied) have not shifted.
• Confirm a four-wheel alignment has been completed; rear toe and camber must be within Tesla Model 3 specification.
• Note: while the wheels are off, this is also a good time to address Tesla's 6,250 mi tire rotation interval and to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage).

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