suspension
Strut Bearing
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
9
Replacement of the front strut upper bearing (mount) on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Requires removal of the front strut assembly and disassembly under spring compression — this is a coil-spring suspension with stored energy that can cause serious injury if mishandled.
Warnings
⚠️A compressed coil spring stores enough energy to kill. Use only a quality strut spring compressor rated for the load, and keep your body out of the spring's line of release at all times.
⚠️Do not contact, cut, or pry near any orange high-voltage cable. The HV pack runs the length of the floor on Model 3 — keep all tools and jack stands clear of the battery enclosure seam.
⚠Model 3 uses Tesla-specified front lift points. Lifting at the wrong location can crush the battery enclosure or pinch weld. Use a rubber puck/adapter.
⚠Body uses an aluminum/steel hybrid structure. Do not hammer on the strut tower or upper shock mount studs — use proper tools to avoid permanent body damage.
⚠All [CRITICAL] suspension fasteners must be torqued to spec with a calibrated wrench. Control arm bolts must be final-torqued at ride height, not while suspension is hanging.
ℹ️A wheel alignment is recommended after any front strut service. Tesla's electronic steering will also benefit from a steering angle sensor calibration if pulling or off-center steering wheel is observed.
Tools required
Heavy-duty coil spring compressor (rated for MacPherson strut)Essential
Strut nut holding tool / shaft holder setEssential
Torque wrench (1/2" drive, up to 200 Nm)Essential
Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 20–100 Nm)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for EV curb weightEssential
Tesla-approved jack pad / puck (front lift point)Essential
Metric socket and wrench setEssential
Allen / Torx bit set (for sway bar link counter-hold)Essential
Pry bar
Wheel chocksEssential
Paint marker (for alignment reference)
Parts
- Front strut upper bearing / mount assembly × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front strut upper bearing — consult parts catalog by VIN
- Strut upper dust boot / bump stop kit (recommended while apart) × 1 — OEM-equivalent for Model 3 front strut
- New strut shaft top nut (if single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec self-locking nut
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (Li-ion on most builds) is located behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ builds may locate the LV battery under the floor — confirm by VIN before opening trim.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) to disable self-leveling logic and prevent the vehicle from re-arming the suspension messages — note: Model 3 has coil suspension only, but Jack Mode still suppresses motion alerts.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then lift at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using a rubber puck. Support on jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Inspect the strut, upper mount, and surrounding area for corrosion, damage, or leaking strut fluid before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Mark alignment reference pointsBefore loosening anything, use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut-to-knuckle bolts in their slots, and mark the orientation of the upper strut mount studs in the strut tower. This preserves a baseline for camber and helps reduce alignment drift after reassembly.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end linkAt the affected side, disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut bracket. Hold the ball stud with an Allen/Torx bit (per the manufacturer-specified counter-hold size) while loosening the nut to prevent the stud from spinning. Set the link aside.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect ABS and brake hose brackets from strutUnclip the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring and brake hose bracket from the strut body if equipped. Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Do not disconnect the hose itself — there is no need to open the hydraulic system for this job.⚠Damaging the ABS sensor wiring will trigger stability control faults that require a scan tool to clear.
- 4Support the lower control arm / knucklePlace a jack under the lower control arm or steering knuckle to support the suspension as the strut is removed. This prevents the CV axle from over-extending and protects the inner tripod joint.⚠Do not allow the knuckle to hang on the CV axle — over-plunge can damage the inner joint.
- 5Separate strut from knuckleRemove the two strut-to-knuckle through-bolts. Note bolt orientation. The bolts may be a tight fit — tap with a soft drift if needed; do not strike the knuckle or strut housing with a steel hammer.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
- 6Support strut and remove upper mount nutsFrom the engine bay / frunk area, locate the three upper strut tower nuts. Have an assistant or strut hanger support the strut from below. Remove the upper nuts and carefully lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.⚠The strut assembly is heavy — control its descent to avoid damaging the inner fender liner or CV boot.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 7Mount strut and install spring compressorSecure the strut assembly in a vise by its lower bracket (never clamp the strut tube). Install a quality spring compressor on opposite sides of the coil, engaging at least 4–5 active coils evenly. Compress the spring slowly and evenly until all tension is removed from the upper spring seat — confirm by wiggling the upper mount by hand.⚠️Compress evenly. Uneven compression can cause the spring to launch out of the compressor with lethal force.
- 8Remove strut shaft top nutHold the strut shaft using the manufacturer-specified shaft holder (typically an internal hex or Torx in the end of the shaft) while loosening the top nut. Remove the nut, washer, upper mount, bearing, upper spring seat, dust boot, and bump stop. Lay parts in order of disassembly.⚠Do not use an impact gun to spin the shaft against an uncontrolled holder — internal damper damage can result.
- 9Inspect and replace upper bearingReplace the strut upper bearing/mount assembly with the new manufacturer-specified part. Inspect the upper spring seat, dust boot, and bump stop while apart — replace any that are cracked, collapsed, or contaminated. Check the strut shaft for pitting or oil weep; if the strut itself is damaged, replace the strut as well (the upper bearing alone will not solve a worn strut).
Reassembly
- Reassemble the strut stack in original order: bump stop and dust boot onto shaft, lower spring isolator (if separate), spring (still compressed) seated in its lower perch with the coil end indexed to the seat stop, upper spring seat indexed correctly, new upper bearing/mount, washer, and new top nut.
- Hold the shaft and torque the strut shaft top nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor, confirming the spring seats fully into both upper and lower perches before tension is fully released.
- Reinstall the strut assembly into the strut tower, aligning the upper studs through the body holes. Start the upper nuts by hand.
- Raise the lower knuckle and align the strut to the knuckle. Reinstall the strut-to-knuckle bolts in their original orientation, aligned to your paint marks. Torque to spec.
- Torque the upper strut tower nuts to spec.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the stud with the appropriate counter-hold. Torque to spec.
- Reattach the ABS sensor wiring and brake hose bracket to the strut body. Verify the brake hose has no twist and full steering clearance lock-to-lock.
- Reinstall the wheel. Snug the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle until the suspension is at ride height (vehicle weight on the wheels) before final-torquing any control arm bolts that were disturbed.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, bounce the front corner — the strut should rebound smoothly with no clunks, knocks, or grinding from the upper mount.
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary on the ground; listen for upper bearing notchiness or popping, which would indicate an incorrectly installed bearing or trapped spring.
- Visually inspect that the brake hose and ABS harness are not twisted or contacting the tire/spring through full suspension and steering travel.
- Exit Jack Mode on the touchscreen and reconnect the 12V battery. Verify no chassis or stability-control warnings remain on the instrument cluster.
- Test drive at low speed first, then at highway speed. The steering wheel should remain centered and the vehicle should track straight. Any pull, off-center wheel, or uneven tire wear after the repair indicates an alignment is required.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment — strongly recommended after any strut service on Model 3 due to its tight factory camber tolerance.
- Note for service intervals: while you're under the vehicle, inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi). Address as needed.