suspension
Strut Mount - Front
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
14
Replacement of the front strut mount (upper bearing/mount assembly) on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. Requires removing the strut assembly from the vehicle and disassembling under spring compression — this is the highest-risk portion of the job.
Warnings
⚠️Compressed coil springs store enough energy to cause fatal injury. Use only a properly rated, well-maintained spring compressor and keep your body out of the spring's line of release.
⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. The vehicle is heavy (~4,000+ lb) and floor-jack failure is catastrophic. Always use rated jack stands on the manufacturer-specified lift points.
⚠Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike strut towers or suspension mounting points with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is needed.
⚠Disconnecting the 12V battery will reset some vehicle systems (windows, calibrations). Re-initialize windows after reconnection per owner's manual.
ℹ️An alignment is required after this job. The strut-to-knuckle bolts affect camber on Model 3.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV weight)Essential
Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)Essential
Heavy-duty coil spring compressor (external or wall-mount type rated for MacPherson strut)Essential
Metric socket set (deep and shallow)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Allen/hex key set (for sway bar link shaft hold)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Strut nut tool / strut rod holder setEssential
Tesla puck-style jack pad adaptersEssential
Pry bar
Penetrating oil
Parts
- Front strut mount assembly (upper mount with bearing) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front upper strut mount — left or right as applicable
- Strut tower nuts (recommended replacement) × 3 — OEM specification
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts (recommended replacement) × 2 — OEM specification
- Upper spring isolator/pad (inspect, replace if damaged) × 1 — OEM specification
- Dust boot and bump stop (inspect, replace if damaged) × 1 — OEM specification
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically the lithium 12V/16V unit — refer to the architecture notes and Tesla service documentation for the exact location on your build.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable self-leveling logic on the suspension sensors.
- Loosen front lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld lift points with puck adapters; support securely on jack stands.
- Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
- Inspect the strut, spring, mount, and surrounding components for cracks, corrosion, or damage before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Access the upper strut towerOpen the frunk and remove the frunk liner/tub and any trim panels needed to access the three upper strut mount nuts on the strut tower. On Model 3, this typically requires removing plastic push-pin clips and the frunk bucket.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end link from strutLocate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut bracket. Hold the link's internal hex shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Remove the nut and swing the link out of the way.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Free brake hose and ABS/wear-sensor wiring from strutUnclip the brake hose bracket and any wheel-speed sensor or pad-wear sensor harness retainers from the strut body. Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Do not disconnect the hydraulic line.⚠Support the caliper with a bungee or wire if hose tension becomes an issue — never let it dangle by the hose.
- 4Separate strut from steering knuckleMark the strut-to-knuckle bolt position relative to the knuckle with a paint pen to preserve baseline camber. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle through-bolts. Note orientation for reinstallation.⚠These bolts often retain camber adjustment. Marking position before removal helps the alignment shop and reduces tire wear before alignment is performed.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
- 5Support knuckle and remove upper strut nutsSupport the steering knuckle/lower control arm with a jack or strap so it does not hang on the ball joint or axle when the strut is removed. From the frunk area, loosen but do not yet fully remove the three upper strut tower nuts. Have an assistant or strap support the strut from below before removing the final nut.⚠Do NOT loosen the center strut rod nut at this stage — the spring is still under load.
- 6Remove strut assembly from vehicleRemove the three upper strut tower nuts and lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well. Be prepared for the weight of the assembly.
- 7Compress the coil springMount the strut in a vise (clamping on the lower steel spring perch only, never on the strut tube) or in a wall-type spring compressor. Compress the coil spring evenly on both sides until all spring tension is removed from the upper mount — verify by attempting to rotate the upper mount freely by hand.⚠️Compress evenly on opposite sides. An unevenly compressed spring can launch with lethal force. If the spring twists, slips, or makes popping sounds, STOP and reset.
- 8Remove center strut rod nut and old upper mountWith spring tension fully relieved, hold the strut rod with the appropriate strut rod tool (hex or Torx broach on the rod end) and remove the center retaining nut. Lift off the old upper mount, bearing, upper spring isolator, dust boot, and bump stop. Inspect each for damage.
- 9Install new upper strut mountInstall the new upper strut mount with bearing, reusing or replacing the upper isolator, bump stop, and dust boot as condition warrants. Ensure the spring's upper coil end seats correctly into the isolator's locating pocket and the lower coil end seats in the strut perch. Install a new center rod nut and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.⚠Misaligned spring ends will cause noise, ride height variation, and premature mount failure.
- 10Decompress spring and verify assemblySlowly and evenly release the spring compressor. Confirm the spring is fully seated top and bottom, the upper mount is centered, and the bearing rotates smoothly. Remove the strut from the compressor.
- 11Reinstall strut assembly into vehiclePosition the strut up through the wheel well. Align the upper mount studs with the strut tower holes and orient the lower bracket toward the knuckle. Hand-start all three upper nuts before installing lower bolts.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 12Reattach strut to knuckleRaise the knuckle into position and install the strut-to-knuckle bolts using your prior alignment marks as a starting reference. Torque to specification.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
- 13Torque upper strut tower nutsTorque the three upper strut tower nuts to specification in a cross pattern.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 14Reconnect sway bar link and brake hose/sensor retainersReattach the sway bar end link to the strut bracket — hold the internal hex with an Allen key while torquing the nut. Reclip the brake hose bracket and any sensor harness retainers.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground (suspension loaded), then torque any chassis fasteners that specify 'with vehicle weight on wheels' if applicable.
- Fully lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
- Reinstall frunk liner/bucket and any trim removed for upper mount access.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Re-initialize power windows (auto up/down calibration) per the owner's manual if windows were operated after disconnection.
- Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen if it was enabled.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, bounce the corner — the suspension should rebound smoothly without clunks, creaks, or binding.
- Turn the steering lock-to-lock (engine off, vehicle stationary): a properly seated upper mount bearing rotates silently. Any clicking, popping, or grinding indicates the bearing is binding or the spring is misaligned.
- Visually compare ride height side-to-side at the front fender-to-tire gap. A significant difference suggests the spring did not seat correctly.
- Test drive at low speed over bumps: listen for top-mount knock, which is the most common symptom of a poorly installed mount.
- Have a four-wheel alignment performed immediately. The Model 3's strut-to-knuckle bolts influence camber, and EV tires wear quickly with misalignment.
- Recheck strut tower nut and strut-to-knuckle bolt torque after the first 100-300 miles, as these are critical fasteners.
- While the vehicle is being serviced, this is a good time to verify brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and inspect cabin air filter age (Tesla recommends every 2 years).