Replace the front sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. The bar is retained by two D-shaped brackets on the front subframe; the bushings split for easy replacement without dropping the subframe.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar bushing (pair, sized to OEM bar diameter) × 2 — Tesla Model 3 front sway bar bushing — match diameter to installed bar
• Aeroshield / underbody panel fasteners (push clips) × 1 — Replace any damaged push-pin retainers

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, shift to P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even though this is a non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) is typically located under the rear seat / floor area — refer to architecture notes and the in-car service mode disconnect procedure if equipped.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If you encounter an orange cable or are unsure whether a system is de-energized, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
5. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
6. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the factory pinch-weld jacking points with puck adapters; support on jack stands rated for the load.
7. Remove both front wheels.
8. Remove the front aeroshield / underbody panel to gain access to the front subframe and sway bar.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the sway bar, end link orientation, and bushing bracket positions. Note any alignment marks on the bar. Inspect end links and bar for damage; replace if cracked or excessively worn.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end links (one side)
   Hold the end-link stud with an Allen key and remove the sway bar link nut on one side. Swing the sway bar downward away from the end link. Repeat on the opposite side.
   ℹ️If the stud spins, use a hex socket on the back of the stud — do not damage the boot.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the sway bar
   Place a jack or stand under the sway bar to hold it in position so it does not drop when the brackets are released.
4. 4

   Remove sway bar bracket bolts
   Locate the two bushing brackets clamping the sway bar to the front subframe. Remove the bracket bolts on both sides. Retain the brackets — they are reused.
   ⚠Bolts may be thread-locked from factory; use steady pressure to avoid snapping.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Lower sway bar and remove old bushings
   Lower the sway bar just enough to slide the brackets off and access the bushings. If the bushings are split (clamshell), peel them off the bar. If solid, slide them off the end. Inspect the bar surface where the bushing rides — clean off corrosion and old residue.
6. 6

   Install new bushings
   Apply a thin film of silicone-based bushing lubricant (NOT petroleum grease) to the inside surface of the new bushings. Position bushings on the bar at the original locations, with the split (if applicable) facing upward or per manufacturer indication.
   ⚠Petroleum grease will swell and destroy rubber/polyurethane bushings — use silicone lube only.
7. 7

   Reinstall brackets
   Place brackets over the bushings and start both bolts by hand on each side to avoid cross-threading the subframe. Snug both sides evenly, then torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect sway bar end links
   Raise the bar back into the end links. Install the sway bar link nuts, holding the stud with an Allen key, and torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front aeroshield / underbody panel; replace any broken push-pin clips.
2. Reinstall front wheels; hand-tighten lug nuts.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
5. Reconnect the 12V battery.
6. Re-enter the vehicle, allow systems to boot, and clear any chassis-related alerts on the touchscreen.

Verification

• Bounce the front of the vehicle and listen for clunks or squeaks from the bushings — there should be none.
• Take a short test drive over uneven pavement and through a gentle slalom; the front end should feel tight with no rattles from the subframe area.
• Re-inspect bracket bolts for proper seating after the test drive.
• Check the touchscreen for any suspension/chassis warnings.
• Note: while the vehicle is on the lift, this is a good opportunity to inspect the front control arm bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends — Model 3 front control arm bushings are a known wear item.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends front tire rotation every ~6,250 miles. If tires are due, rotate now while the wheels are off.

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