Long Range Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
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suspension

Sway Bar - Front

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
9
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace the front sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The bar is accessed from underneath after removing the front aero shield/belly pan and disconnecting the end links from both struts.

Warnings

⚠️The HV battery pack runs along the entire floor of the Model 3. Do NOT place jack stands or lift arms anywhere except the manufacturer-designated lift points. Penetrating the pack causes fire and lethal voltage exposure.
⚠️If you see any orange cable, orange shielding, or HV connector while working in the front subframe area, STOP. The front drive unit on this AWD car has HV cabling routed nearby.
Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension components with a steel hammer against body structure — use a dead-blow on the part itself only.
Sway bar end link ball studs spin freely. You MUST hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening/tightening the nut, or the boot will be destroyed.
ℹ️On Long Range AWD, front aero panel coverage is more extensive than RWD due to front drive unit cooling — expect additional fasteners.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob taken well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under a front floor access panel — refer to architecture notes and Tesla Service Manual for the exact location on your VIN.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V — this disables auto-leveling and self-leveling logic. (Note: Model 3 has coil springs only, but transport mode still prevents drive engagement messages.)
  7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while tires are on the ground.
  8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated front lift points using puck adapters. Support on jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
  9. Remove both front wheels.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove front aero underbody shield
    Remove the plastic push-pin clips and Torx screws securing the front belly pan / aero shield. On AWD, additional fasteners may secure ducting around the front drive unit. Lower the panel carefully — it is large and flexible. Set aside.
    Do not pry against the HV battery pack edge seal. Work fasteners loose with the correct trim tool.
  2. 2
    Identify the sway bar and visually inspect
    Locate the front sway bar running across the front subframe behind the front drive unit. Note orientation of bushing brackets (mark with paint pen if needed) and the direction of the end-link ball studs. Photograph for reference. Confirm no orange HV cabling is in the work path before proceeding.
  3. 3
    Disconnect sway bar end links from struts (both sides)
    Insert the appropriate Allen/hex key into the end-link ball stud to hold it stationary. Use an open-end wrench to remove the nut where the link attaches to the strut bracket. Repeat on the opposite side. If the link is being reused, inspect the boot — replace the link if torn.
    Do not use an impact gun without holding the stud — the ball joint will spin and the boot will tear.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove sway bar bracket bolts
    Locate the two D-bracket clamps holding the sway bar to the subframe. Remove the bracket bolts on each side. Support the sway bar by hand as the second bracket is loosened — it will drop free.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Maneuver sway bar out of the vehicle
    Rotate and angle the bar around the steering rack, subframe crossmember, and (on AWD) front drive unit half-shafts. There is limited clearance — do not force. If clearance is insufficient, lower the front subframe slightly per Tesla Service Manual procedure (advanced; otherwise work the bar out at an angle).
    ⚠️Do NOT loosen subframe bolts blindly to gain clearance. Front subframe alignment is critical and may require Tesla-specified alignment fixtures.
    Avoid contact with the front drive unit housing — do not pry against aluminum cases.
  6. 6
    Transfer / replace bushings
    Slide the old D-bushings off the bar. Clean the bar at the bushing seats. Install new bushings with the split facing the manufacturer-specified orientation (typically toward the rear/down — refer to Tesla Service Manual). Lubricate only with manufacturer-approved rubber-safe lubricant if specified; do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber bushings.
  7. 7
    Install new sway bar
    Reverse the removal route, threading the bar back into position. Ensure correct left/right orientation — most Tesla front sway bars are not symmetrical. Seat bushings into their subframe pockets.
  8. 8
    Install bracket bolts
    Hand-thread both bracket bolts on each side before final torquing to allow the bar to center itself. Then torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reconnect end links to sway bar and struts
    Reattach end links. Hold each ball stud with the Allen key while torquing the nut. Verify boots are not pinched or twisted.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front aero underbody shield with all original fasteners. Replace any broken push-pin clips — missing fasteners cause the panel to flap at highway speed and can damage HV pack underbody.
  2. Reinstall both front wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand.
  3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  4. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  6. Close all doors, then wake the vehicle with the key fob and verify no suspension/ABS/stability fault messages appear on the touchscreen.
  7. Exit Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.

Verification

  • Test drive at low speed and verify no clunking from the front end on bumps or during steering input — a clunk usually indicates a loose end-link nut or improperly seated bushing.
  • Perform a slow figure-eight in a parking lot; the car should feel symmetrical and tracked. Asymmetry can indicate the bar is installed reversed.
  • After 50-100 miles, recheck Sway Bar Bracket Bolts and Sway Bar Link Nuts torque — these can settle as new bushings compress.
  • Verify on the touchscreen that no chassis, ABS, or stability control alerts have appeared.
  • Visually re-inspect the aero shield is fully seated; a missing/loose panel will trigger wind noise and reduce range.
  • Note: While the vehicle is on stands, this is a convenient time to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and verify tire rotation interval (every ~6,250 mi).
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🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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