Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. Straightforward bolt-on suspension job with no alignment required, but proper torque on the link studs is critical.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model 3 front sway bar link — confirm fitment for 2024 LR AWD
• Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model 3 front sway bar link — confirm fitment for 2024 LR AWD

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is typically located under an access panel — refer to the architecture notes; some 2024+ units are under-floor while many remain behind the right rear seat back panel. Disconnect negative first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
5. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
6. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using approved rubber pucks, and support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
7. Remove both front wheels and set aside.
8. Spray penetrating oil on both upper and lower sway bar link nuts and allow to soak for several minutes.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect old links and surrounding components
   Before removal, check both end links for play, torn boots, or seized ball studs. Inspect the sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, and ball joint boots while access is open. Note any additional issues before proceeding.
2. 2

   Locate sway bar link mounting points (driver side)
   Identify the upper end link stud where it passes through the strut bracket and the lower stud where it attaches to the front sway bar. Both ends use a stud-and-nut design with a hex socket on the stud face for counter-holding.
3. 3

   Remove driver-side upper link nut
   Insert the appropriate hex bit into the end of the link stud to prevent rotation. Using an open-end wrench on the nut, loosen and remove it. If the stud spins despite hex counter-hold (common with corrosion), apply more penetrant and try again; in extreme cases, the stud can be cut as a last resort since the link is being replaced.
   ⚠Do not use an impact gun without holding the hex — it will simply spin the stud and destroy the boot.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove driver-side lower link nut
   Repeat the same procedure on the lower stud where the link attaches to the front sway bar. Hold the hex, remove the nut, and free the link from the sway bar.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove driver-side end link
   Pull the link free from both mounting points. Compare the new link side-by-side with the old one to confirm correct length and orientation before installation.
6. 6

   Install new driver-side end link
   Position the new link with correct orientation (note any offset/bend direction matches the original). Hand-thread both upper and lower nuts onto the studs to ensure no cross-threading.
7. 7

   Torque driver-side link nuts
   Holding the stud with the hex bit, torque both upper and lower nuts to the verified specification. Confirm the link is seated square and the boots are not pinched.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat removal on passenger side
   Repeat steps 3–5 on the passenger-side end link: remove upper nut, remove lower nut, extract link.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install passenger-side end link
   Install the new passenger-side link, hand-thread both nuts, then torque using the hex counter-hold method.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final inspection
    Confirm both links are torqued, both boots are intact, and nothing is contacting brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, or CV boots. Verify sway bar can move freely through its arc.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels, hand-tightening lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tires just contact the ground, then torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
3. Lower vehicle fully to the ground.
4. Re-torque lug nuts in star pattern with the full vehicle weight on the wheels.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative) and reinstall any access panels.
6. Allow the vehicle to wake; verify the touchscreen boots normally and no suspension/ABS/stability control faults are displayed.

Verification

• With wheels on the ground, push down on each front corner — suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunk.
• Test drive on a known-rough road: listen for the characteristic 'clunk over bumps' that indicated the original failure. It should be gone.
• Perform a slow figure-eight in a parking lot; body roll should feel even side-to-side with no rattle.
• Re-check both link nut torques after the first 100–200 miles, as Model 3 suspension hardware can settle.
• Confirm no new warnings appear on the touchscreen (stability/traction control) after several drive cycles.
• While under the vehicle, this is a good opportunity to note Tesla's actual service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, drive unit fluid inspection per current Tesla guidance, and tire rotation every ~6,250 miles.

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